I bought a 36 cal revolver and it wasn't as described...there is some rust spots in the barrel.I hate to throw away a gun, so i was wondering will the gun be safe to fire or should I consider shortening the barrel..It would leave the barrel at 4 inches long...what do you guys think?
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cutting barrel
- Thread starter seekhim1
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Treestalker
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Before cutting off the barrel, scrub it out good with a bristle brush and shoot it,it may be ok for up close pistol work, which is all a 4" barrel is going to be good for anyway. A shorter barrel involves redoing the loading lever and catch, front sight, etc. More trouble than it's worth. OR, you can send it to me postage due and never have to deal with it again. I promise. I'm always on the lookout for junk revolvers for parts. George.
What are the circumstances of the purchase?
Can you return it to the seller for a refund since "... it wasn't as described..."
Can you return it to the seller for a refund since "... it wasn't as described..."
I bought some as well with rusty and pitted barrels, sight unseen. They are still excellent shooters, meaning quite accurate out to 25 yards.
The barrel I bought for my project gun had some rust inside, and was quite dark. The rifling was good, but it's not perfect....now, after 45 rounds, the barrel is shiny inside, and the accuracy is more than acceptable. I did recut the forcing cone a bit, but that was mainly because I had to take .030 off it to get a .006 air gap I wanted with the Uberti cylinder...
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I bought a Rogers & Spencer .44 at a gun show for cheap. I was not able to do a good inspection of the barrel and it turned out to be very rusty and did not clean up. It is badly pitted to the point that it only has partial rifling in some areas. It definitely isn't a target gun, but shoots better than I can hold off hand. I would just shoot the gun before wacking off part of the barrel.
The bigger issue will be that it might be a pain in the rear to clean. It is very hard to clean my R&S with all the pits. I would re-barrel it if I could find a reasonably priced barrel.
The bigger issue will be that it might be a pain in the rear to clean. It is very hard to clean my R&S with all the pits. I would re-barrel it if I could find a reasonably priced barrel.
I bought a Euroarms '58 New Army which turned out to have some very bad pits in the barrel though the rifling was very sharp and still showed machining marks. I had to cut a massive forcing cone to clean the existing one up. I was afraid that it would lead up there. When I put it on the bench I was quite impressed by its accuracy and fouling wasn't an issue. I used 22 grains of 3f with a Cream of Wheat filler and olive oil & Crisco lube over the ball. While I wouldn't shoot it in a match (I have far better shooting revolvers for that) my experience at 25 yards leeds me to believe it shoots as well as an unpitted barrel and it's more than adequate for plinking or range fun.
Cleanup hasn't been a problem either. I clean by letting the gun soak in a bucket of hot water with Dawn for a while and use a bore swab while under water. Sometimes I'll give the gun a couple of passes with a nylon brush.
Cleanup hasn't been a problem either. I clean by letting the gun soak in a bucket of hot water with Dawn for a while and use a bore swab while under water. Sometimes I'll give the gun a couple of passes with a nylon brush.
zimmerstutzen
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Black powder and pure lead is very forgiving about bore pits. Some pitting looks bad but isn't actually a danger to shoot. Shot a trapdoor in competition for years that had a really bad spot about 8 inches from the muzzle. I still shot great scores and even winning scores. If you need to shoot a hot substitute powder or hardened lead, then there could be a problem. The pitting will trap fouling and is a reason to scrub the bore extra clean.
