CVA Bobcat range day

[finaddict]

Just wanted to say I'm becoming somewhat impressed with my .50 cal. Bobcat cap lock. I'm shooting prb (.490 ball). I took it out a week ago and tried some .015-.016 ticking patches with Bore Butter and I was all over the place at ~35 yds. Today I went up with some .012-.013 twill patches soaked in Stumpy's Moose Snot (made last night) and I was getting 1 inch groups at 50 yds. This was only my second time out with the Bobcat and I am still very new to bp shooting. I was pretty happy with the results, but realize I still have a long way to go. Ahh what fun awaits in the future.

 

[sduve]

Good to hear it. I too am new, about three years, and look forward to each and every opportunity to learn and read the tricks of the trade.

 

[RatherBHuntin]

I shot my Bobcat the first time the other day and had very large groups. I am going to try Stumpy's Moose Snot as soon as I get the beeswax and see if it helps. I also have a rough spot in the bore I need to get rid of. What charge were you shooting Finadidct?

 

[finaddict]

I'm using 90 gr. of Pyrodex Select and Remington #11 caps. I was shooting off hand. I know if I could bench rest I could get better groups. I'm also thinking of switching to FFg Goex bp. I heard that "real" bp can give tighter groups. Many things to learn. The recipie for the Moose Snot is below just in case you don't have it. Good luck.

Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

 

[cayugad]

I shoot Stumpy's Moosemilk as my patch lube. With this stuff I get some fantastic groups. I have shot his Moose Snot and just was not happy with the groups. Bore Butter actually used to work pretty good for me.

Mink Oil I bought from TOTW (they recommended very highly) seemed to work all right in the big .58 caliber, but with the Moosemilk I even tightened the groups more.

 

[finaddict]

I started off with Bore Butter and it just wasn't working well for me. Then again it was my first time out with the rifle. I may give the Moosemilk a try and see what happens.

 

[dave63]

I'm pretty happy with Stumpy's recipe for Moosemilk too. I tried it and plain old spit patches today, and really saw no appreciable difference in the groups. And if you leave the patches pretty wet, I found that I didn't have to swab at all. On the occasion that I did swab, my groups went to sh :curse:t. I tried going to .005 under balls today, and my patches were good enough to use again.

Since I got the Renegade, I've neglected the Bobcat. I'll take it out next time and report.

Dave

 

[finaddict]

I swabed about every 10 shots or so. I had a few fliers but didn't realy pay attention to what happenes when I swab the bore. I'll check that next time I go. It all a learning process. ::

 

[rwwintx]

I also have a Bobcat and the first time I used it the bullets flew everywhere (got it used from my cousin) the bore was really dirty. I cleaned the bore and shots got a little better. Scrubbed the bore with soap and water and finally got the shots to come into a better group at 50 yards. I was wondering about 2 things. 1 everyone seems to be using ball and patch I have been using powerbelt bullets is this a mistake. Also I have a hard time getting the first shot to fire. after the first shot it fires every time. I'm really worried about this when I hunt with it.
It's the first shot that counts with a deer.

 

[finaddict]

Like I said I'm still new. I do use the 295 gr. Areo Tip Powerbelt bullets in my inline (CVA Kodiak), but I bought the Bobcat mainly for a patch and ball pliking without the expense of the powerbelt bullets. :cry: I don't think there is anything wrong with the powerbelts, they are great in my inline. :m2c:

I wonder what type of powder you are using? I'm using Pyrodex Select and haven't had any problems getting it to ignite. I have heard that regular black powder will ignite much easier. I'm thinking about going to regular FFg black powder and see if that is any better. The only trouble I've had getting the Bobcat to fire the first time is because of a faulty cap or not having the cap seated on the nipple all the way. Also I found that I need to keep the nipple hole clear with a nipple pick and make sure I can feel the powder right below the nipple hole before I shoot. Since I've done this I haven't had any problems. I just purchased some CVA Buckslayer 300 gr. solid lead conicals last night and can't wait to try them out. I'm also thinking about trying to hunt next year with prb (patched round ball). Hope this helps.

 

[cayugad]

If you're having trouble getting the very first round to fire every time without question, I would look at your loading procedures and cleaning procedures....

Before you load your rifle the very first time, take a alcohol wet patch and swab the barrel. Then run some dry patches through the barrel until it is dry. Push a clean patch to the bottom of the breech on your ramrod. Now pop three #11 caps through the nipple. Pull that patch and see if it shows good burn marks on it. That will tell you that you are getting good fire through the nipple and bolster area.

Now dump your powder and load as normal. Your rifle should fire fine. A friend of mine was having the same problem and it turned out he was swabbing the barrel with something other then alcohol. I felt he was blocking the fire channel with the stuff he was swabbing with and told him to switch to alcohol which solved his problems.

The other thing you could do to make sure, is fowl the barrel before you hunt. Put 20 grains of Goex down in it, push a couple patches on top of the charge, and fire them off. Then load as normal. I know this is not always possible, I understand, but is a common practice.

 

[musketman]

Also I have a hard time getting the first shot to fire. after the first shot it fires every time.

I'm thinking on the same line as the others, it's cleaning or oil fluids draining into the nipple area...

Once you cleaned and oil the barrel, do you stand it up?

This will cause any excess oil to run down into the breech and accumalate there, that's why I lay mine flat until everything is good and dry...

Before you shoot it, remove the nipple and see if it's plugged, a;so give a look down inside the drum (where the nipple screws in) and see if it's got anything in there to block the flame of the cap...

Replace the nipple and snap a few caps, now you're ready to shoot...

 

[Slamfire]

If you breathe in too much of the heated castor oil, use the WWI pilots remedy. Blackberry wine. I don't know if it cures the affliction, but you won't care.

 

[gordy317]

That's interesting about the thinner patch leading to tighter groups. The best I'd been able to do with the Bobcat was just under 4 inches at 90 yd. - - - from a rest. I haven't miked the bore diameter, but wouldn't be suprised if the Bobcat's is tighter than other .50 cal that I have. I know conicals load harder in it than the others. I've been using Bore Butter for a lube.
On the other hand, I've read that the tighter ball-patch combination that you can seat, the tighter the groups should be! Lots of theories around the web and in print, but it must all come down to each individual rifle.
BTW, I loaded mine up Tuesday 5:00 AM, and after 20 hrs. of sitting in a tree stand over the course of the week, fired it off last night. #11 cap, no ignition delay. I kept a piece of celophane rubber banded around the muzzle, and it apparently kept the snow, rain, and condensation from ruining the charge.
(NO deer!:curse: Turkeys all over the place right under my stand - and I'm wearing an orange vest and cap! As long as I didn't move anythig but my eyeballs, they stayed around - beginning to form a minority opinion that turkeys are color blind.)