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DIY Bore Butter

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Hi. I’m new here, but a muzzleloader enthusiast for years. I know there’s a lot of options out there, and just as many recipes for bullet and patch lube for muzzleloaders. I am using BP for propellant and have used T/C Bore Butter as a lube for many years. I do like the idea of a non petroleum “natural” lube and with the now scarcity of T/C products, have decided to try to make some of my own lube. A good friend who casts bullets for a living, and also makes his own BP lube, uses Beeswax and olive oil. I was going to do this myself, but then I read somewhere that as far as ph was concerned, that coconut oil was much more neutral. Seems to me that would be a good attribute, and thus a coconut oil/beeswax mixture might be a better alternative. What do you all think?
I haven't mixed it with anything to make bore butter. But I have been using straight coconut oil for patch lube for a long time and it works great for me
 
I haven't mixed it with anything to make bore butter. But I have been using straight coconut oil for patch lube for a long time and it works great for me
Good to hear. I was wondering since the ph is neutral, if coconut oil would have enough lubrication properties? Another concern is that it seems to have a very low melting point. (Then again, olive oil is already liquid at room temperature, so well, what the hey!) - J
 
Good to hear. I was wondering since the ph is neutral, if coconut oil would have enough lubrication properties? Another concern is that it seems to have a very low melting point. (Then again, olive oil is already liquid at room temperature, so well, what the hey!) - J
Probably a great lube. I dropped it because of that melting point. Too much hassle to anticipate what it will do next. Mixing it with other substances may be one option but while the mixture may not liquefy at 76f and above it will change the viscosity of the mixture on warm days and cold days. It just makes it impractical to have to adjust the methodology of it's use. It's probably fine if your practice is to lube quantities of patches in advance at home or wherever. Not a good idea to fill the grease hole in the stock of an SMR with it.
 
Probably a great lube. I dropped it because of that melting point. Too much hassle to anticipate what it will do next. Mixing it with other substances may be one option but while the mixture may not liquefy at 76f and above it will change the viscosity of the mixture on warm days and cold days. It just makes it impractical to have to adjust the methodology of it's use. It's probably fine if your practice is to lube quantities of patches in advance at home or wherever. Not a good idea to fill the grease hole in the stock of an SMR with it.
Ok, excuse my ignorance … what is an “SMR”?
 
SMR, Southern Mountain Rifle. A term applied to rifles of the Southern Mountain states that were often simple but not always. The simple ones are often described as Poor Boy rifles. Often they would have a grease hole let Into the side of the stock.

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TOW Mink Oil mix in pure Bear Oil to desired consistency (I like it about like toothpaste), keeps the mink oil from hardening in extreme heat cold and the Mink oil makes the Bear oil from becoming water-like in hot weather.
 
TOW Mink Oil mix in pure Bear Oil to desired consistency (I like it about like toothpaste), keeps the mink oil from hardening in extreme heat cold and the Mink oil makes the Bear oil from becoming water-like in hot weather.
That’s great. I’m sure it would work well. But bear oil isn’t something you just pick up at any local store. I think I’ll try the beeswax and coconut oil.
 
So, I'm a bit green still in the BP world. Not new to bullet lube, but new to homemade. I've read and heard about lamb tallow and beeswax 2:1 respectively.
What about other tallows or lard?
I was planning on the 1:1 beeswax to Extra Virgin Olive oil. But why not try many?
Is lard too acidic? What makes one tallow better than others. Price?
Optimally, it would be useful to have it for CB pistols and rifle patches.
 
Pretty much anything you want to use mixed with beeswax works: tallow, lard, Crisco, olive oil, bacon fat. Two ingredients is better than too many. I have been know to add a dab of Dawn, per some reccomendations, though I haven't noted any difference. Acidity is not an issue. What you use and the ratio you mix will determine its consistency and how hard or soft it is in cooler or warmer temperature. So you don't have to overthink it. Just mix it. Whatever you end up works for whatever use you have for it. Have fun experimenting.
 
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Anybody recall that military surplus bore cleaner that was around in the 1960's? Really vile stuff, I read that it's poisonous, (but, hey, so's Hoppes!) and I still have a small amt. around. It makes great patch lube when put on fresh at time of use. It came in O.D. one quart cans, remember? Looks and smells like creosote! Good grief, maybe it is!!! Creosote plants became super-fund clean- up sites, just sayin'!
 
Boy, you are potentially opening a HUGE can of worms! Everybody has their favorites, and there are a few who will spend hours, if not days, expounding on why their favorite is best...

But, that's what makes it fun, so I will jump in the mud pit with everyone else.

Out on the range or a woods walk, I use good ol spit. Works great and I never run out.
For hunting, I use whatever is handy. Olive oil or a dab of Crisco out of the kitchen, or maybe a bit of motor oil. I've pulled my dipstick out of my engine before loading in the field. Anything as long as it won't promote rust while sitting in the bore for a day or two.

Unless you are a nationally ranked shooter, you are never going to notice any differences in accuracy based on bullet lube. Our guns are far more accurate than most can hold them, including me.

One thing I do know from years of experience and observation is that there is no significant difference in fouling between "natural" and "non-natural" lubes. If your lube is a low viscosity watery type lube, it will be nearly self-cleaning and you will get multiple shots without swabbing the bore. High viscosity, waxy, oily lubes will foul quickly and be harder to clean.

Ok, I'm ready! let the opinions fly!
Agree fully.
 
Anybody recall that military surplus bore cleaner that was around in the 1960's? Really vile stuff, I read that it's poisonous, (but, hey, so's Hoppes!) and I still have a small amt. around. It makes great patch lube when put on fresh at time of use. It came in O.D. one quart cans, remember? Looks and smells like creosote! Good grief, maybe it is!!! Creosote plants became super-fund clean- up sites, just sayin'!
Found this in Hatcher's Notebook in dealing with corrosion in the 1903 Springfield. Seems pretty nasty.
 

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In the early 1970's , there was a British black powder solvent called Young's . It was mixed with water and turned a whitish brown color , and worked great. It smelled like American WW2 gun cleaner called Cosmoline. Since the two , Young's and Cosmoline smelled and seemed the same , I mixed Cosmoline with water just as the Young's cleaner said to do , and the American version worked just as well. The water is absorbed by cleaning patches , and the oil stays on the steel. Before the local salvage store where I bought the Cosmoline ran out , I stocked up. Last week , I found a last can of it in my shop. I clean my m/l guns w/ hot water and finish with WD40 , I'll just hang on to the old can of Cosmoline , just for fun.
 
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