Draw filing.

[Gooddaytoya!]

Hi, I'm re-browning my 36" 58 caliber octagon bbl, finding difficulty with sanding off the existing browning. I'm using 180 and 200 grit silicone carbide paper, and the bbl has some seemingly deep parallel scratches that I can't sand out, so far, and I'm sanding long and hard. I picked up a new double cut *******, which works great and is real fast but I'm not coordinated enough to keep it on the flats well enough, and I don't want to round the flats even a little. I cut two dozen 1" X 1" X 2 1/2 inch pieces of birch and glued sandpaper on each of 4 sides to help with sanding, but those scratches don't sand out. I'm considering cleaning it up as best I can, degrease it well, and go ahead and brown it with B-C Plum Brown. I successfully re-browned a different octagon bbl 40 years ago but the barrel prep went a lot better and it turned out great. Any suggestions?

 

[JBird]

I'd try again with a good single cut mill file for draw filing, As wide as you can find. Keep your hands in close on either side of the barrel with light pressure on top, it should follow the flats.

 

[Gooddaytoya!]

I'd try again with a good single cut mill file for draw filing, As wide as you can find. Keep your hands in close on either side of the barrel with light pressure on top, it should follow the flats.

I might not be able to do that, as my tremor doesn't let me keep the file from rocking on the flats. It would help to un-sweat the thimbles etc. but paradoxically I don't want to incur the job of re-sweating them. Any prediction of what would happen if I leave those few fine browned scratches and go ahead with degreasing and re-browning?

 

[TDM]

I might not be able to do that, as my tremor doesn't let me keep the file from rocking on the flats. It would help to un-sweat the thimbles etc. but paradoxically I don't want to incur the job of re-sweating them. Any prediction of what would happen if I leave those few fine browned scratches and go ahead with degreasing and re-browning?

Use a single cut file as @JBird said. Personally I only draw file the flats that are visible. No need to remove the thimbles, just sand/clean the surface as best you can and degrease all the metal with denatured alcohol. You should be fine.

 

[Old-Duckman]

Files are far more involved than people realize. I agree that a mill file is the way to go and by definition a mill file is a single cut file.

American pattern files follow this nomenclature with respect to coarseness (from coarse to fine) Coarse, *******, Second Cut and finally Smooth. Add to that, the longer the file is, the coarser the cut without respect to cut. In other words a 10” Smooth cut file is coarser than a 6” Smooth cut file.

Don’t even start me on European files.

 

[R Ellis]

Instead of filing the traditional way lay the file lengthways along the barrel and file along the barrel with the entire length of the file flat on the barrel it works just fine and all corners will be flat and sharp trust be It works and is much faster because you are using the entire length of the file. I am sure someone will have a different opinion but it works great for me.

 

[deerstalkert]

just sand and clean those thimbles. sweating on after browning can cause the brown to turn black.
i have tremors also and i found that using a couple long 1x boards on each side of the barrel almost level with the flat keeps me from rounding the edges.

 

[Old-Duckman]

Oh and probably the most important part, keep the fire clean. I use a “file card” that has both a brush side and a side with metal teeth. You can help keep your file clean longer by rubbing either soapstone or regular black board chalk over the file between cleanings.

What happens is pieces of metal get stuck in the teeth (that is called pinning). These pieces of metal will gouge the metal that you are filling FAR deeper than your file cuts. If you can’t remove the pinning with a file card, pushing a piece of brass in the direction of the teeth (not the direction you would normally file) this will generally remove the pinning.

 

[James Kibler]

No other method of filing will match the finish you get with draw filing.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Your wet or dry paper will cut MUCH faster if you use it wet, very wet and with a hard backer.

 

[andy52]

Draw filing can do a very good job with the right file. A draw file needs to be pretty wide to prevent tipping. That kind of file generally can't be found at your local hardware store or big box stores.

 

[Dude]

Agreed - draw filing makes a much smoother finish.

 

[Whiteoak15]

What they said above; draw file!

 

[LME]

Instead of filing the traditional way lay the file lengthways along the barrel and file along the barrel with the entire length of the file flat on the barrel it works just fine and all corners will be flat and sharp trust be It works and is much faster because you are using the entire length of the file. I am sure someone will have a different opinion but it works great for me.

I agree with you! I like as much file on the flat as possible . I will angle the file while filing to enable me to grip the file better and to keep as much of the file on the flats as possible. If you rock the file you are going to have trouble. Don't force it and take your time.

 

[oldwood]

I'm amazed looking at the responces , that nobody has suggested a way of keeping their draw files from clogging up with filings , and further scratching the steel surface. In my experience , somebody taught me to apply chalk to the file teeth before draw filing. It's like magic , how a little play ground chalk works on file teeth keeping them clean so a dirty file doesn't ruine the filed surface.

 

[Old-Duckman]

I'm amazed looking at the responces , that nobody has suggested a way of keeping their draw files from clogging up with filings , and further scratching the steel surface. In my experience , somebody taught me to apply chalk to the file teeth before draw filing. It's like magic , how a little play ground chalk works on file teeth keeping them clean so a dirty file doesn't ruine the filed surface.

Look up 6 posts, or whatever number...my previous post.

 

[Appowner]

Reading elsewhere someone mentioned taking eight hours to draw file a ML barrel. Is that true?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Reading elsewhere someone mentioned taking eight hours to draw file a ML barrel. Is that true?

Never takes that long for me.

 

[Appowner]

Never takes that long for me.

I was hoping not. I'd do it if I had to but.............

 

[ppb]

Reading elsewhere someone mentioned taking eight hours to draw file a ML barrel. Is that true?

I don't want to appear flippant or whatever, but draw filing sets the baseline for the intended finish of the barrel. So, it will take as long as need be to get the proper base for the following finish steps.
[More than once, I have been tasked to put a mirror finish on an octagon barrel ( admittedly, these bbls were not for muzzleloaders) - but still, draw filing requires persistence and that takes time...]