Final oiling, etc. after Laurel Mountain Browning

[LFC]

I've seen various different versions of instructions on what to do to a barrel browned with Laurel Mountain once the browning is done. The version that is "stickied" at the top of the Gun Builder's Bench forum suggests heating the barrel to 125 degrees or so and applying motor oil, then letting it "bond" for 24 hours or so. I think I've seen others suggest linseed oil, WD-40, or other oil-like substances.

What's the best? What's bad? What has your experience been?

 

[mykeal]

I used Turtle Wax paste. Worked fine.

 

[jtmattison]

I did it with motor oil. Worked great.

HD

 

[paulvallandigham]

I like spaying the hot barrel with WD40 as it has driers in it that evaporate, and remove any moisture in the pores of the steel from the surface, leaving oil behind. That stops rusting dead. If you do a very good job of neutralizing the acid used to rust, by washing the barrel thoroughly with a baking soda/Water solution , you can use any oil to protect the barrel, and don't need to use WD40. I like seeing the oil sizzling off the barrel when I spray it on, so I know the pores are fully open. The slight burning of the oil also helps to darken the browning of the metal, and locks the browning as a finish in the metal.

 

[gacitizen]

I second the motor oil. Works just dandy.

 

[Vaino]

Do you mean "after the rust has been neutralized"? If so, I use auto paste wax.....Fred

 

[spitpatch]

Automatic transmission fluid works great.

 

[cptleo1]

I used to use paste wax (Johnsons).

Birddog6 recommended using brown shoe polish (KIWI).

I tried it and haven't looked back, it sure makes em pretty.

3-4 coats first day 2 a day for the next 2 days.

That way you are sure the rusting action has stopped.

I heat the bbl with a heat gun (not very hot , just good and warm)before I do it.

Seems to make a difference.

 

[Dave W]

I just recently rust blued some iron fittings for a Haines rifle using LMF Browning solution. I followed their website's suggestion about heating with a torch and applying motor oil after neutralization. I was amazed at the amount of moisture that appeared to be driven out of the pores of the iron castings.

Whatever substance you use to do a final oiling, I would definiately heat it just prior to applying it to make sure that all of the moisture is outof the metal.