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fixing loose barrel pin

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Bunyan

32 Cal.
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The pin that holds the barrel on my flinter is a little loose. Not bad, but not so tight that I would still worry about it while hunting. I already have enough to worry about in the woods without loosing that pin! Any suggestions for helping secure it? A wrap or two of electrical tape maybe? Thanks!
 
Would it be possible to put a slight bend in the pin? Causing some misalignment but friction to keep it in place.
Or a drop of BLO to act as " temporary glue"
 
I use superglue. Once the glue has set, run a drill bit of the proper size through the hole using your fingers to twist the bit. This will shrink the hole and the pin will fit snugly.
 
get a slightly larger diameter pin. grind a point and push it in. cut off level with wood
 
rj morrison said:
get a slightly larger diameter pin. grind a point and push it in. cut off level with wood

No offense intended, but this sounds like trouble.

Larger diameter pin with a point - it is unlikely the hole in the lug has gotten larger, rather the wood is worn. The first time you tap it in, the pin will hit the lug and stop, which might stimulate a harder tap and cause the pin and/or lug to bend, wood chip-out, dented wood, splitting, etc.

Cut level - could end up with a scarred stock that would require staining and finishing.
 
I have cut the length of my pins just slightly undersize. When inserted, this leaves a small part of the hole on each side of the stock empty to which I press bees wax in. Even in hot weather, the bees wax remains solid and prevents the pins from moving out of the holes in the stock. This also 'seals' the holes from any moisture seeping into the holes.
 
A slight bow in the pin will fix any looseness. Just make certain that you keep the pin in the same location. Mark your pins in some way so they do not get mixed up. Each pin should be slightly below the wood surface. Fill the holes with some wax from one of those big colored crayons that are sold to repair furniture blemishes.

Incidentally, pins usually become loose from removing and re-installing. There is really no need to remove the barrel unless the whole gun gets wet enough to require take down, and even then sometimes it is questionable.
 
The "fix" depends on how loose the pin is. A little stock finish in the hole and then a resizing w/ a hand held drill will usually solve the loose fit.

When I drill for the bbl lug pins, a 1/16 dia drill is used for the music wire pins and the holes aren't the desired slight press fit...but are so after the stock is finished and the same, hand held drill is run through.

One of the reasons 1/16 dia music wire is used is that the dia is very accurately sized and is consistent. Formerly used finishing nails and they require more work to make them "useable" and chances are that all the finishing nail pins aren't the same dia.....Fred
 
George Walker said:
I have cut the length of my pins just slightly undersize. When inserted, this leaves a small part of the hole on each side of the stock empty to which I press bees wax in. Even in hot weather, the bees wax remains solid and prevents the pins from moving out of the holes in the stock. This also 'seals' the holes from any moisture seeping into the holes.

This is what I do. I highly recommend this idea.
 
You can lay the pin on a solid steel surface and peen the pin, just enough to give it the fit needed. Just a little peen a 1/16 inch in from each end, will do it. You can as suggested put a tiny drop of super glue in the hole, however if super glue gets into the surface of wood, it might leave a stain. If I were going to use super glue, it would be on the tip of a pin and make sure it went into the hole. Also, with super glue, make sure it is completely dry before inserting the pin. You do not want to glue the pin in. If you could find a finish nail that was a few thousandths larger, you would need a set of quality dial calipers or micrometer to measure it. I would cut it to the same length as the existing pin and grind a radius on each end. If you fool around with too large of a pin or a pin with a sharp corner, you stand the risk of taking a chip of wood out, on the edge of the hole. Try the peen first. It's known in the machinist ranks, as an interference fit.
 
Thanks guys! Lots of ways to skin a cat! I'm sure I can find a way to make it work!
 
It is quick, permanent and invisible. The best solution all around, with the least chance of screwing up or creating more problems....
 
Super glue is also good for sealing minor cracks between the cylinder and head bolt holes on a flathead Ford V8.

Just because something is "common" and inexpensive does not mean it's not good. It's the experience of knowing when or when not to use it that matters That's where the 50 years of experience come in.
 
What the super glue does is raise the grain and then as it dries, the wood is hardened. So, after the wood completely dries, the pin will be tighter and the wood is less likely to expand. However, you do not want super glue to get on the surface of the wood, especially prior to staining. What happens is.....the area where the super glue contacts will seal and harden the wood and stain will not penetrate that spot. Use extreme caution, around a nice rifle, if you choose to use super glue. And the same advice goes for epoxy.

I agree, there are better choices.
 
Remember - we are talking a very thin layer inside a pinhole to create an interference fit. Brittleness and lack of stain penetration aren't really issues...
 
With all due respect, it matters very little what they might do - Easy and invisible beats complicated any day. I doubt even you would be able to discern a layer of superglue a few thousandths of an inch thick inside a pin-hole...
 
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