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Flintlock rifle under $650

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The truth is that when you but a pure production rifle like a Lyman, though it's a good rifle for the money, about half of what you pay is taken up in middlemen, retailer, and an 11% excise tax. That is, if you could simply get it directly from the manufacturer, it would cost you half as much.

The rifles listed on Americanlongrifles are a no brainer. Probably Longhammock or Green Mtn. barrels, Siler or L&R locks, actual styling. TVM. Not a contest. Basically cost of parts. It won't happen again soon.

I wouldn't spend time enquiring and negotiating, because they're going to be gone. Could be wrong with the current financial crisis, but this generaly holds true.
 
My suggestion is to call Tip Curtis Frontier shop & see what he has built in-the-white. (615-654-4445) Just tell Tip you don't have but 650 & see what he has. He also may have a tradin he can sell for that. But on a in-the-white rifle, surely you can sand & stain a stock & as for the barrel & trim, just let it age or get some cold blue & blue it, then rub it down with some steel wool, then clean that off & take some Clorox in a spray bottle & mist the parts with it, let it sit for an hour ot two & then rub it down with WD-40 & some 0000 steel wool for 2-3 days & now it looks 100 years old.

Tip usually has some rifles for $650 tp $1000., just depends on what ya want. And even if it cost $ 850 it is MUCH better to save $ 200 more & get something nice rather than put allot of $ into new parts for a production rifle. IMHO

You also might try TVM.

Also on this site in the Classifieds there have been some flintlocks for sale in your price range. Keep watching & grab one when it is there.
 
Check out Dixie Gun Works online. Since you didn't state what style rifle you're looking for, you can browse for a style that catches your eye. I'm personally fond of the Dixie/Pedersoli Pennsylvania Rifle but Lyman GPR is another good value. There are some very nice smoothbore trade guns out there available, North Star West comes to mind, that you can find within your price range if you aren't hard set on a rifle. Look around, find a style and caliber suitable to you, and have fun.
 
At Tip Curtis's tent at Dixons, I don't think I saw an "in the white rifle" for less than $900. Could be wrong.You just can't get by the cost of good components. Let alone a finished one by someone making a living at it. So when you get someone cashing out a couple of rifles for this price, I can't see anything better for $650. Or $850 for that matter. This is just the truth of it.
 
At Friendship last year Tip had a beaut of a Vincent halfstock for $ 695. He had a great looking Jaeger for $ 895., etc. What he carried this time to Dixon's I don't know cause i was not there. But I do know he can build a rifle cheaper than just about anyone because he is a huge volume parts buyer. Now, I will grant you he doesn't make much on those in-the-white rifles, but that guy sells a volume of rifles & parts from his booth & his TN shop that is quite impressive.

And for a guy starting out & $ vs. what you get for a in-the-white rifle, IMHO it is a great deal... :thumbsup: No, it may not have the perfect fit & finish required by some builders, but they can be touched up just a tad of work in that aspect & be made into a Great finished rifle at a very reasonable price.
 
I second what Birddog has said about Tip Curtis. He has a good selection of in the white rifles at a very reasonable cost. I bought one at Dixon's Gunmaker's Fair this year. It is well made, historically correct, and a joy to shoot.
 
I agree that Tip Curtis is a great deal. But you're making my point for me. One is $45 more and the other $245 more than he wants to spend and you still have to buy stain and finish and brown, etc. We have this laying around but others don't.
 
Oh I agree. It is more than he wants to spend. But IMHO it would be better to save for a few months if that is what it took, then to settle for something of Considerably less value.... I have never been sorry that I saved or waited for something better. :hmm:
 
But there's no difference in quality between a Matt Avance or Jack Garner rifle than a Tip Curtis as far as I know. Very similar.
 
You would be better served if you went out to the back yard and throw your 650 dollars in a hole . Shooting a good flinter is a joy...shooting one the don`t work is not.I have bin there . I put together a good shooting flinter for less then what you have to spend .Buy a good barrel and lock. I just got a siler kit for 80 canadian.You can get a piece of 2by8 maple cheap .All the other furnature you can pick up at gun shows and shoots. I have a flinter, green mountain barrel. L&r lock german silver furn.that i put together for way less then you have to spend.
 
sAVE UP ANOTHER HUNDRED BUCKS OR SO AND TALK TO bOBBY cHRISTIAN, A FINE MEMBER HERE, AND SHOOT A NICE, PLAIN SMOOTHBORE MADE OF GOOD PARTS. GOOD SMOKE, RON (SORRY ABOUT CAPS)
 
You might look at this link:
http://www.avsia.com/tvm/virginia.htm

This sells for around $600 in kit form. TVM also has several other styles, but the prices are about the same for most of them. I have no idea how much work the kit would require. I bought this rifle completed from them a few months ago for almost twice the kit price, and could not be happier with it. Twenty years ago, I might have tried the kit, but at my age I don't take on any long term projects :grin:

The rifle I bought from these folks is a beautiful piece and unbeliveably accurate, once I found the right load.
 
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We would all like to start out with the top of the line, but that just isn't realistic for most of us.The GPR is a fine choice for the person on a limited budget, but you must learn to work the kinks out.There are many gifted craftsmen on this site, and they can build just about anything, probably better than the originals.Thompson also makes a good rifle for the price.Try one that fits your budget, and when you find out what you really want, take the plunge and get your custom.
 
For someone starting out I do not see that a fine stock or a green mountain barrel is essential at all. The most important part is ensuring that the lock works very reliably. Most shooters and hunters cannot outshoot their factory barrels if they take the time to work up a good load. For 95% of decent production rifles like a TC or Lyman you will be able to get a load shooting as well as needed for any type of big game hunting. If your skills improve to the point where you can outshoot your rig, then buy a GM barrel. A TC or Lyman will hold their values fairly well and can always be upgraded or sold later if you want to get better performance.

Your efforts on the rifle should be focused on tuning the lock for reliable firing. This should include knowing how to keep the frizzen and flint dressed and adjusted for reliable spark. Get flints which work well with your frizzen. Get the flash hole drilled to the right size. A factory lock can be tuned to the point where a misfire should be a rarity. I have not been muzzleoading that long, but have tinkered with centerfire rifles and reloading for years. When you understand how something is designed to work, you can often get good performance with fine tuning a production unit. I have factory rifles which I have tuned and reloaded for which will shoot with good custom rifles--because I took the time.

Too many people buy custom rifles because they think it is buying accuracy. It only buys accuracy potential. Even with a custom rifle you need to learn how to properly use and load it and you need accurize yourself. You will learn far more by tuning a production rifle and learning to shoot it well than just buying a high dollar custom rifle. In the future when you upgrade, then you can appreciate what you have and will also have the skills to take full advantage of its potential.

Well, that's my opinion, but its worked well for me over the years and is helping to train a son to learn how to make something work rather than starting out by trying to buy everything being already done for you.
 
Good observation, T-stick. I am constantly amazed at the number of MLers I meet that have never taken the locks out of their guns-- for cleaning or oiling or anything! :shocked2: More than half the locks I work on arrive with screws loose, and obvious rub marks on the lock plate that explains why it takes a "gorilla" to pull that trigger. When I show the owners HOW to remove the lock from their gun, and then have them watch as I inspect it, and then "fix " it in front of their eyes, letting them test the parts and the lock as I tune it, after each change, they are like little kids winning the grand prize at the Candy Store. They leave knowing that it didn't take much polishing, straightening, and occasionally some filing to get that lock working properly.

No, this should not happen even on cheap import guns, but it does. The factories and retailers want to avoid Product Liability suits by producing a product that has lots of problems, and leaves the factory barely able to function. Then, when someone works on the lock to "fix" it, their after-market work is clearly evident, and the company has a defense to any suit.

( Its the same reason that ammo makers of cartridges use a different colored primer in factory ammo, while selling primers for reloaders of a different color. They want to prove that the cartridge is a reload, and not a factory loaded round that blew the gun up. )

Many of the factory guns, sold for much less money than any of the kits or semi-custom made guns can be priced, can be tuned up to shoot quite well. Its very rare today to find a barrel that simply will not shoot. Its just as rare with Foreign barrels as with American made barrels. Everyone is stress relieving barrels, because it allows them to cut the barrels faster, which helps them remain competitive. and making a profit.

I toured a barrel maker's shop here in Illinois, and he even had made up his own "freezer" to do his own kryogenic treatment of his barrels. He had made his own rifling machine, so a lot of things in his shop had that " Rube Goldberg" kind of look, including that "freezer", but he produced outstanding barrels. Unfortunately, he was not set up to make MLer barrels, with their deeper grooves, and was not interested in trying to get into that market.
 
In most cases the rifle will outshoot the shooter. But thats not the really true with a flinter .A TC makes a fine shooting percusion. guys win shoots with TCs right out of the box. TCs flinters can be made to shoot sort of. There`s a reason experanced flint lock shooters have custom guns either bought or built by themselves . Its because they work. I can`t stress enough that you should practace patience find a used custom thats a proven shooter. Or save some more coin and get a better gun, new.
 
you this whole back and forth about a factory gun, or a custom gun seems silly to me. i have a GPR that i love, its a flinter, and i have a tip curtis lancaster that i love. they both go out with me on a regular basis. and they both are reliable shooters. and my GPR is stock. i do want to up grade the lock and triggers on the GPR, just havent done it yet.

karwelis
 
I have a Ped. Frontier (Cabela’s Blue Ridge) in .45. It’s a good gun, especially for what I paid for it when Cabela’s was having one of their sales a few years ago. I’m certain they aren’t going for $400 anymore.

It’s also not nearly as ugly (which may or may not be relative) as many production guns. I just don’t find any factory made guns aesthetically pleasing. I’m having a rifle built right now that I wasn’t able to afford when I was initially looking for a flintlock gun- but the Frontier has sufficed for my purposes thus far. I rarely shoot out past 100 yards with this gun so I don’t have much to offer on that particular capability.
 

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