• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Gettin started questions- Stocks

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Clark B

32 Cal.
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
When I introduced myself a couple of days back I said I would be askin some questions being that I'm new to this stuff.

I am wondering what tools I need to invest in to start making stocks. I know that I an going to need some chisels, but which kind are best. And what is used to remove all the extra wood from a blank when the buttplate and toe plate is fitted? When it comes to working with wood I prefer to do stuff with hand tools, which is exactly the opposite with how I prefer to work with metal.

Any knowledgable advise will be appreciated.
 
Welcome to the world of building muzzleloaders, Clark. Be warned, it's an addictive hobby.

I don't know what advice followed the intro that you mention, in which you said you'd be asking questions. Most knowledgeable people would probably advise starting with a precarved stock for your first build -- maybe even a factory kit -- to eliminate a lot of the work and potential for ruining the wood (and possibly metal parts) you're trying to fashion into a working gun; and also to give you a sense of how the various parts are supposed to fit and work together. I, however, went the blank route from the very start, sawing my own from a slab of maple and eventually creating what may have been the most butt-ugly piece of artillery ever to be fired by human hands. In other words, it didn't come out quite the way I had in mind. I wouldn't go back and do it any other way, though.

Just my 2 cents' worth on that point.

What you need, more than me or anyone else telling you what tools to buy (because all of us have our little preferences and quirks, and you'd be liable to end up with three different items all basically intended for the same task), are books. Books like "The Art Of Building The Pennsylvania Longrifle" by Ehrig, Miller, and Dixon; "The Gunsmith Of Grenville County" by Peter Alexander; "Recreating The American Longrifle" by Buchele, Shumway, and Alexander; and a number of other titles, most available from Dixie Gun Works, Track Of The Wolf, and other muzzleloading parts suppliers. From books like these you will get a good idea of not only what tools you need, but what to do with them once you've got them. I can't stress enough that you ought to buy at least one -- your life will be easier and happier, believe me.

"The Art Of Building The Pennsylvania Longrifle" is devoted strictly to the use of hand tools and natural light -- no power anything.
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom. Breath easier, I do plan to go the kit route for at least the first couple of guns. To be honest I'm not sure if I will ever get to the stage where I'm cutting stocks from planks, but it's something to aim for.
 
Clark,
If you will be using power tools a Dremmel
is an absolute must IMO.
snake-eyes :hmm:
 
First thing ya need before ya need any tools is a good builders book. I recommend "The Gunsmiths of Grenville County" as being the very informative & most detailed of the 3-4 good builders books avail. In it you will find the tools ya need & etc., plus get ideas of how & what to do when & etc. This book is avail. at most of the ML parts venders & well worth the $. I suggest the spiral bound as it will easily lay flat on the workbench for easy access & reading as you work..
:hmm: IMHO, a dremmel is one thing ya best keep away from when building a rifle, til ya learn now to build one. Later on you may find a few places where it can save a lil time & etc. Basically a dremel is used as a shortcut & timesaver & can so EASILY make a mess of things....... Some things are just better left to be done by hand........
 
In my opinion, you really don't need that much. An inexpensive drill press does wonders, but beyond that, basic chisels from a good woodworking store, a mallet, a cheap ball pean hammer, punches in a variety of diameters, a good hand saw, files and rasps can just about equate to all that's needed to build a gun.

You also need a vice....I mean a vise. (The vice is that you are starting something addicting!)
 
I did an entire scratch built rifle using an X-acto kit I picked up for $20 at a hobby store and a couple of files. The barrel was pre-inlet but I did the rest. Everything was going good until I bought a Dremel tool. The problem with Dremel tools are. Your setting there looking a very large piece of wood going, "I could really hog that out quick" Yep, you can, they are very dangerous. I have ruined more stuff using those things. Now I simply put on the absolutly smallest bit that I can find and take out very little nibbles of wood. Good luck, go slow, drink lots of tea. That's my technique.
Regards
Wounded knee
 
I'm a dremel tool fool. Your absolutely correct. Go littlt by little with the dremel or your going to take off more than you wanted. The big thing is patience. I screw up my projects when I get impatient.

My next project is going to require some inletting of the action. I'm thinking masking tape, mallet, chisel, and dremel. Oh and a vice to hold my project in place.
 
Yeah but you can learn so much my screwing up a project. :grin: So go ahead use the dremel on high power.
 
I would think a good deal could be accomplished with a nice big half-round wood rasp, a spokeshave, a few chisels, a plane, a brace'n'bit, a handsaw, a coping saw, several grades of sandpaper, a tape measure and a pencil, oh and a paintbrush and some clean cotton rags. You could clamp it in a vise, or you could just clamp it between your knees, and maybe under your foot for the drilling. No electricity required :grin: .
 
Back
Top