GPR wedge problem

[Rles221]

Hi all
I have a big problem with my wedges in my gpr after shooting 3-4 rounds thay start to fall out while getting ready for the next shot. I was thinkin g about a dab of silicone to hold them in eny other suggestions would be great.

 

[Zonie]

You might try bending them just a little.
When installing them do it with the bend or bow down. This will hold the barrel tightly in the stock and create a pre-load on the wedges that will keep them in place.

It doesn't take much of a bend to make a lot of difference.

 

[Dave K]

Zonie ,did what I did. I also marked them as to front and rear wedges.

 

[Rebel]

Also make sure you put them back in the same hole they came out of. One is supposed to be a bit longer than the other if i remember right. One is front, one is back. If i recall, the long one goes in the back. Maybe some of the other GPR shooters will chime in here.

 

[750k2]

Take a steel rod and lay it across the underlug and give it a rap to put a little bend in it - try it and then adjust if necessary.
Good shootin guns but thier locks suck imo..
:imo:

 

[2172]

Had the same problem, laid the wedges on my anvil, and gave them a few shots with a 6 lb hammer on their sides...this upset the metal, and made them thicker..worked for me...Hank

 

[welshman]

Try laying 3 or 4 layers of masking tape under the barrel, sticking it to the stock make them about the same lenght as where the barrel contacts the wood. that should solve the problem.


Thw Welshman

 

[JackAubrey]

Zonie and Rebel are right.

 

[JeffS]

I am considering slotting and pinning my keys for my GPR. That way even if they come loose you don't lose them. Seems like an easy enough little project to improve a GPR.

Jeff

 

[Rles221]

Thanks for the help i think I pound on them a bit and see what happens. I didnt think of that. Vaquero let me know how that works out I like the idea of pinning them in somehow.

Thanks again for the help
Rick

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

My Hawken has captured keys and they are a true asset in the field (and everywhere else, for that matter), and really aren't that hard to do. I watched a friend do this a few weeks ago, and I think it took 15 minutes, tops. But he was using keys that were already slotted.
My horse pistol has a captured key and uses a pin to retain the key. The Hawken uses tiny brass screws to do the job. Using screws would make it easier to completely remove the keys, though I have never perceived a need to do this.

 

[WV_Hillbilly]

Zonie ,did what I did. I also marked them as to front and rear wedges.

Yep-pur! It's a good idea to code the orientation and position on a rifle that has multiple wedges--especially if your memory is like mine and decides to occasionally "take a vacation" for little slices of time.

I use a Dremel tool and put tiny little marks on the wedges to indicate their position fore/aft and orientation top/bottom. I learned long ago to always put the wedges in from the right side, (as viewed by the shooter), egardless of a left-hand gun or whatever, so I have no need to mark the left/right positions on them.

I have bent wedges and also peened some of them to make them stay in place. I haven't had to use any positive capture modifications, though if the problem kept recurring there isn't too much else left to do. I would also rather be able to remove them completely & quickly--just in case I had to.

To date, I have not lost any, but that could always change. If it happens in the field, it's not always easy to just look down and see it... plus the wedge could have come out several hours ago--like when you straddled that old dead oak that fell across the stream, or maybe just a few seconds after you shot, or after you had to run 25 yds uphill to get better position.

Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly

 

[SquirrelsaurusR]

I gave mine a slight curve by holding the ends with two pairs of vise grips (pliers or crescent wrenches would also work) with a rag protecting the finish and bending them. Slight pressure was all it took to give them just a bit of a curve. Don't overdo it, bending them too much will make it impossible to get them back in. Install them with the bow in the middle facing down, as Zonie said. They held the barrel down tight in the stock and they never came loose.

Rebel is also correct, the longer one goes in the hole nearest the lock.

 

[shmrck1]

Zonie,
:thanks: for the tip....i have a GPR that i was having a problem with on the front wedge, but no longer!!!
Thanks for your tip...
snake-eyes :master:

 

[Rles221]

Thanks for the tip guys. I think pounding the a few time then back a few times to get the right fit will work great. I am going to range test them tommorow and see what happens. Dinged things up alittle tried to tap them in a few times and some other smart things that tirst time fixers do Ill let you know how it works out
Thanks again
Rick

 

[Rles221]

It work great neither wedge fell out at all shooting or cleaning. Thanks Zonie and all for the great help