Grease in Revolver

[RiverRat]

I seen on several threads that I was reading through that you can pack the internals on revolvers with grease? Does this work on both Colt and Remington guns? What type of grease would be recommended? Wouldn’t this gum up the internals especially with bp residue? I am always looking for a better way to do things so please advise.

 

[RiverRat]

I don’t know how to delete my above post. I found another thread talking about all my above questions. I don’t want to add “already discussed” topics.

 

[1stnamebassist]

Also look up action shield. The grease works better if you install a shield on the hammer. Keeps most of the gunk out of the gun so the grease stays clean longer.

 

[ZUG]

Here's my take on greasing the internals of a BP revolver:
If you are doing a LOT of shooting with your revolver such as competing with it every week then greasing the internals is a good idea BUT if you are the "once every two or three month" shooter then why bother.

 

[45D]

Here's my take on greasing the internals of a BP revolver:
If you are doing a LOT of shooting with your revolver such as competing with it every week then greasing the internals is a good idea BUT if you are the "once every two or three month" shooter then why bother.

Sorry, I don't follow the logic.
If you shoot a LOT, check it maybe once a year. If you only shoot a few times a year then you never have to open it ? Seems pretty straightforward to me. Lube once and forget it?
Help me out here . . .

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Sorry, I don't follow the logic.
If you shoot a LOT, check it maybe once a year. If you only shoot a few times a year then you never have to open it ? Seems pretty straightforward to me. Lube once and forget it?
Help me out here . . .

Mike

I've not loaded up mine with grease either as I have always thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed with each use but it sounds logical and practical to me with the synthetics that are not temperature sensitive.
Still need to properly clean barrel , cylinder and frame exterior with each use !
I want to experiment with my bear grease to see how it works when the temperature drops also.

 

[wiscoaster]

.... Wouldn’t this gum up the internals especially with bp residue? ....

Yes. I don't see any need for, or advantage to "packing" with grease. A very light coat of any black powder friendly solvent or lubricant, such as Ballistol, should protect the metal from corrosion, and unless it's a very, very long time, should be already good to go for the next shoot.

 

[1stnamebassist]

Yes. I don't see any need for, or advantage to "packing" with grease. A very light coat of any black powder friendly solvent or lubricant, such as Ballistol, should protect the metal from corrosion, and unless it's a very, very long time, should be already good to go for the next shoot.

Packing with grease and installing an action shield on the hammer means you don’t have to worry about cleaning the internal parts of the gun for a very long time, up to a year of heavy use. It’s not a necessity but a choice. If you like tearing your gun down completely then packing with grease would be a waste of time.

 

[No second place]

Sorry, I don't follow the logic.
If you shoot a LOT, check it maybe once a year. If you only shoot a few times a year then you never have to open it ? Seems pretty straightforward to me. Lube once and forget it?
Help me out here . . .

Mike

I only have a 62 police with 45Ds "The work"s. Seem to be well sealed after 40-50 cylinders. How many cylinders til I would have to strip clean the action? I would expect more than 100-200 maybe. What would you expect 45D?...c

 

[45D]

I only have a 62 police with 45Ds "The work"s. Seem to be well sealed after 40-50 cylinders. How many cylinders til I would have to strip clean the action? I would expect more than 100-200 maybe. What would you expect 45D?...c

Hello sir!!!
I'd give it a year and then check it.

Mike

 

[CaptainKirk]

Bear in mind that when packed full with Mobil 1 (as Mike likes to do) it's very difficult for any fouling to get past the grease.

 

[Smokerr]

I have done two of the BP guns, only time will tell but I had checked the internals and saw no need to take it down just to check stuff. While not Mobile its a synthetic grease that came home with me in my grease gun when I quit (literally) work.

 

[Bad Karma]

Bear in mind that when packed full with Mobil 1 (as Mike likes to do) it's very difficult for any fouling to get past the grease.

Difficult if not downright impossible. I used to just hose them out with CLP after every shooting session. Worked just fine, and every year or so when I tore them down they were full of black oily gunk but never corroded. Still, the grease is better.

 

[45D]

I only have a 62 police with 45Ds "The work"s. Seem to be well sealed after 40-50 cylinders. How many cylinders til I would have to strip clean the action? I would expect more than 100-200 maybe. What would you expect 45D?...c

I'll add, especially if I put an action shield on the hammer. If so, I wouldn't worry about it. If not, then a yearly check will be fine. Keep in mind, as you cycle the action the grease will migrate throughout so it will eventually get "dirty". If you feel the need, use a Q-tip to scoop out what you can ( you don't need any disassembly other than removing the trigger guard) and replace with new Mobil1. It will be good for another year.

Mike

 

[Blackpowderart]

I agree with @45D On alot of his opinions but I don't use the grease anymore. It does make the revolver smoother and it works great, however I only Shoot BP and I clean my revolvers meticulously after shooting them. This means complete disassembly. I found it is just too much trouble for me to get all of that out of the action everytime I shoot. Now I just use gun oil. @45D admits he uses mostly smokeless loads, and for
That, it fits the bill.

 

[FlinterNick]

I seen on several threads that I was reading through that you can pack the internals on revolvers with grease? Does this work on both Colt and Remington guns? What type of grease would be recommended? Wouldn’t this gum up the internals especially with bp residue? I am always looking for a better way to do things so please advise.

Mild machining oil is what i use.

For grease i usually use graphite anti size on screws and threaded parts.

I’ve never used excessive amounts of grease on internal parts.

 

[Bad Karma]

I agree with @45D On alot of his opinions but I don't use the grease anymore. It does make the revolver smoother and it works great, however I only Shoot BP and I clean my revolvers meticulously after shooting them. This means complete disassembly. I found it is just too much trouble for me to get all of that out of the action everytime I shoot. Now I just use gun oil. @45D admits he uses mostly smokeless loads, and for
That, it fits the bill.

I shoot nothing but BP in the cap guns and it’s the reason I grease the action. Does it look nasty after a year or two of regular use? Oh yeah… is there any hint of corrosion after a year or two of regular use? Nope.

 

[Ed C.]

If you are going to completely break down your gun after each shooting session there is no point in using grease. Even with dawn and hot water the grease is hard to clean out. If you think twice about shooting your BP revolvers due to the cleaning needed afterwards then you may like the grease. Just clean the barrel, cylinder, nipples and wipe the frame. Cuts your cleaning time in half or less. Shoot more, clean less=more fun.

 

[M. De Land]

I agree with @45D On alot of his opinions but I don't use the grease anymore. It does make the revolver smoother and it works great, however I only Shoot BP and I clean my revolvers meticulously after shooting them. This means complete disassembly. I found it is just too much trouble for me to get all of that out of the action everytime I shoot. Now I just use gun oil. @45D admits he uses mostly smokeless loads, and for
That, it fits the bill.

Some gun parts need grease any way to properly lube them and not just gun oil. Arbors, ratchet stars and hammer bolt cams come to mind.
I'm wondering if it might not be worth a try to smear a bit on a properly fit wedge to see if it will stay put until driven out, easing insertion and withdraw. It gets coated with bullet lube regularly any way.

 

[Ed C.]

Some gun parts need grease any way to properly lube them and not just gun oil. Arbors, ratchet stars and hammer bolt cams come to mind.
I'm wondering if it might not be worth a try to smear a bit on a properly fit wedge to see if it will stay put until driven out, easing insertion and withdraw. It gets coated with bullet lube regularly any way.

Grease will allow you to drive the wedge in further, tighter. Being it reduces friction it may also allow it to loosen up quicker. Not sure how that might work out. I generally only shoot 3, maybe 4 cylinders a session and the wedge has never been an issue for me.