I have not tried anything yet. I am not a gunsmith but I have been a fabricator and a mechanic for 50 years and it is pretty much general knowledge that unless specified parts should not be preloaded by the mounting screws around a mounting block. That is the situation I am looking at here. The mounting screws are bending the hammer plate around that block that is contacting the barrel. I would think that the optimum situation would be contact on the wood and barrel evenly when the screws are tight and from looking at it if that were the case the hammer would be centered at the same point.
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Hammer alignment, Is this acceptable?
- Thread starter Rickf1985
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JCKelly
45 Cal.
He's in New Jersey, not the United States
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You are correct, When I speak to folks on the phone in other states I tell them "I'm not in America, I'm in NY". In 1976 I put my ROA on my CCP only because you could buy them here no problem but to load them or even have ball and powder near by, you were breaking the law. I hunted with mine as a back up in bear country. Yes NY sucks almost as bad as Jersey.
I have tweaked several over the years, I removed the hammer, padded the base end (axel end) with leather, padded the hammer ‘nose’ with leather and tightened a 12” crescent wrench and bent them cold, where they had to go.
Are these hammers forged or cast? I would be worried about breaking it if cast. I don't want to use heat since it will ruin the finish.
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
I too have bent hammers slightly to achieve striking the cap. They were minor bends with little pressure. I did realize that if I went too far, I would have to look for another hammer for the rifle.
I think they are cast but I have never broken one tweaking them cold, it is usually a very small amount of movement needed
This right here. As long as the cap goes off, it's fine.
Hmmm I need glasses I know but it looks almost like it could be an alignment problem with the nipple hole drilled at too much of an angle. I'd heat n bend hammer if it were mine (and caps would not pop). May have to do that to a 20ga dbl shot gun lock, left lock will only fire cci reg caps due to hammer misalignment, other caps takes two whacks like finicky pistol..
Well right now the hammer is not wanting to come off. Some judicial tapping has failed to convince it so I am going to put some Kroil on it and let that soak for a day or so. It doesn't look rusted but something is holding it very tight.
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The hammer/ tumbler mate with a tapered square hole so when the hammer screw is tightened it’s like a pressed fit. You could say a square peg in a square hole...
Too much rocking will make for a loose hammer. A tiny gear puller would be great but since no one has invented that you have to take everything out of the lock and gently tap on a piece of steel you filed square that Won’t touch the threads in the tumbler.
Have tumbler sitting on top of a hole drilled in piece of wood thick enough so the tumbler doesn’t fall to the floor.
Piece o cake!
PS. Do yourself a favor and buy a nice file then hide the dremel and grinder!
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I have some very nice files, I do machine work sometimes and I am a locksmith. But as soon as I tried to file that block I realized it was case hardened from the heat treating to get the finish. On the Dremel I have an extension drive which I can hold in my hand and I have very good control over it. The stones and cutters I use are for fine milling on cylinder heads and carburetors and intake manifolds where thousandths count. Don't worry about me butchering it.
Thanks for the info on the hammer removal, If it comes down to removing it I figure I can file down a keyway key to do the job. Notice I said FILE!!
I do use them when I can.
Thanks for the info on the hammer removal, If it comes down to removing it I figure I can file down a keyway key to do the job. Notice I said FILE!!
I do use them when I can. 
Thomas.bill92
40 Cal
Shoot, I'm a bit late to the thread but I have a Lyman Plains Pistol that has the occasional misfire because the recess on the hammer rides down the side of the cap. I think I can bend it a degree or two to sort that out but it is a bit nerve wracking. Is it safe to assume that the hammer is a cast part? I guess I should put a spare one in the proverbial shopping cart before I get out the adjustificator...
