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Hangfire Help
- Thread starter waxhaw
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
If it isn't already, drill yor vent hole out to 1/16" or 5/64". Don't use too much prime. Keep your flint Sharp. Polish all the internal and external bearing surfaces.
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Waxhaw,
I like to prime to accomplish three things. Cover as much surface area of the pan, (you will catch more spark) stay below the touch hole, (don't want to wast time burning down to it) and slightly away so the prime will FLASH through, versus burning through.
Make sure you check the touch hole every time prior to loading for obstructions or build up. :hatsoff:
Flintlocks Forever
Lar
I like to prime to accomplish three things. Cover as much surface area of the pan, (you will catch more spark) stay below the touch hole, (don't want to wast time burning down to it) and slightly away so the prime will FLASH through, versus burning through.
Make sure you check the touch hole every time prior to loading for obstructions or build up. :hatsoff:
Flintlocks Forever
Lar
cowpoke1955
58 Cal.
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Last week I had a lot of flash in the pan after drilling my vent liner to 1/16th. The other day I drilled it out to 5/64th and today it went off like magic. Shot all day with only one flash in the pan. :thumbsup:
It does make a difference. I also like to remove the liner and drill the inside out making as big a hole as i can and as deep as i can go without drilling all the way through. This lets the main charge powder get right out close to the pan. I can see the powder in the bore through the vent hole. You might want to buy a spare vent liner first just in case you drill too deep and go all the way through. :grin:
I make sure the pan is dry. I put only enough primer in to cover about half the pan, and I make sure that amount is to the outsdie of the pan. My hangfires come from the powder acting as a "wick", and having to burn it's way to the main charge, not reaching it by flash.
Hank
Hank
Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
I dont know what you guys use for pan chargers.
I use a rev war british warrant tubular charger from DGW.
No matter which flinter Ive charged with it. Seems to deliver the right amount of powder everytime.
I use a rev war british warrant tubular charger from DGW.
No matter which flinter Ive charged with it. Seems to deliver the right amount of powder everytime.
cowpoke1955
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I thought they primed from their paper/linen cartridges before dumping it down the barrel? 
Guest
Hasn't been asked yet. What brand of powder are you using. In a Flintlock it needs to be the real thing, and not one of the stinky substitutes. They have a much higher ignition temp, and just don't ignigte like real Black Powder. At their best they will give hangfires if yer lucky. If yer using real black powder, Packy poop (elephant) is the worst, almost as bad as the sub's. Over filling the pan can cause hangfires (acts like a fuse).
Bill
I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!
Bill
I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!
paulvallandigham
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BILL IS CORRCT. Over filling your priming pan will delay ignition. Also, compressing the main charge will slow and often delay ignition in a flintlock. Failing to poke a hole into the main charge with your vent pick before each shot will delay ignition again causing the fuse effect. Use the coarser FFg powder in a flintlock rather than the finer FFFg powder, in order to increase the amount of oxygen between the granules to speed burning. If your lock is poorly designed, so that the frizzen doesn't snap open, and the sparks roll down the face of the frizzen before getting to the priming powder( when the sparks should be thrown into the pan) you will have a delay.
So, there are many causes of hangfires, most of which are within your control, but a couple that are not. I just worked on a lock for another member, where the tumbler hole is drilled a little too far from the frizzen, so that the only way this lock will throw sparks and open the frizzen is if the flint is placed in the jaws bevel down.
I have worked on locks where the distance between the tumbler and the frizzen is too close, and the only way to get the sparks to work right is to put the flint in the cock bevel up. On a good lock, you should be able to get sparks with the flint mounted either way.
So, there are many causes of hangfires, most of which are within your control, but a couple that are not. I just worked on a lock for another member, where the tumbler hole is drilled a little too far from the frizzen, so that the only way this lock will throw sparks and open the frizzen is if the flint is placed in the jaws bevel down.
I have worked on locks where the distance between the tumbler and the frizzen is too close, and the only way to get the sparks to work right is to put the flint in the cock bevel up. On a good lock, you should be able to get sparks with the flint mounted either way.
Johnny, lately I've been priming from the horn with the same 3F I use for my main charge....I have used priming horns with one of those spring loaded spouts..it seems to deliver enough...my over-primings have come when I occasionally depressed the plunge twice for one priming...Hank
Many of these Cabelas guns have a patent breech that can cause some problems, but you ask about lock tuning.
Is your lock not delivering good sparks, or is there a flash-bang effect?
We need to know the exact nature of the problem before a fix can be found.
J.D.
Is your lock not delivering good sparks, or is there a flash-bang effect?
We need to know the exact nature of the problem before a fix can be found.
J.D.
greetings waxh,
do all the above, many great tips. heres one more. not all flints are created equal. some may be too short and some too long.
like goldilocks said, 'some are just rite' :grin:. too long or short and the spark mite be weak. it's easier to change the length of the flint than it is to bend the cock.
..ttfn..grampa..
do all the above, many great tips. heres one more. not all flints are created equal. some may be too short and some too long.
like goldilocks said, 'some are just rite' :grin:. too long or short and the spark mite be weak. it's easier to change the length of the flint than it is to bend the cock.
..ttfn..grampa..
Guest
By the way, Welcome to the Forum Waxhaw. Useing real Black, eliminates one problem for sure. Knowing it's a Cabela's Hawkin, sheds some light on posible problems. It's a great gun, but like the Lymans, made by the same company, they have a patent breech which can get fouled, and cause slow ignition. The touch hole leads to a small chamber at the bottom of the barrel chamber. This chamber and the touch hole can, and does build up powder residue, and can be somewhat hard to clean out. Acouple of things to help are to enlarge your touch hole to 1/16" or 5/64". second many people have made a modified scraper with a center step of around .30 cal. to clean out this chamber, ar they use a .30 cal. brush to get in there. Pipe cleaners can also reach in there somewhat. Search the website for Lyman problems, or misfires for more info. Good luck
Bill
I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!
Bill
I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!
JD, it seems I get a flash then bang. Just a tiny delay. It has always fired, but it seems the timing is off. Of course I have not taken the lock off to clean or lube. SO I am going to try that 1st. Also I am reading back up on all the tips you great guys here have been telling me. 1 step at a time but thanks to all on this forum, I will solve this problem. :thumbsup: Its back to BP school for Waxhaw. :grin:
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