Help, what`s it called.

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Well we made something, a walking stick. Started with a fresh cut ash tree and started at it.
Horse worked perfect, just let the work go up under your arm and ya can shave the whole length. Had the roaster keeping an eye on things and it went pretty good. I`ll let it dry now then put some kind of finish on it and dress it up.
Ideas and comments welcome, it was a first for me.

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If you got ash, you should make some ladder back chairs. :wink:

I see you found a combo spoke shave! :thumbsup:

I like linseed oil and turpentine as a finish.
 
Here`s a better pic of the spoke shave, the piece that holds the blades tight had both end ears broke. Thank God for wire feed welders, fixed and working good. I wouldn`t mind finding another, is there a place you can buy one new?

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Yeah. Go to the Woodcraft site. They sell new spokeshaves.

I see them all the time in antique stores, in antique auctions, barn ( estate) sales, etc. Most of the people- both sellers and buyers-- have no idea what they are or how they are used. If they only had the shaving horse that was used with the tools, now that would be a find. Unfortunately. Shaving horses were often left outdoors, and allowed to deteriorate with the rains and weather and feeding the termites. Some of the tools I have seen have been sitting in the bottom of a tool box in a barn for more than 50 years, gathering rust, and dirt. The same kind of abuse occurs to the draw knives. At one time you could buy more than 20 different shaped draw knives from Woodcraft.
 
I did a search and found that site, they have several different brands and reasonable. Ebay has some too and there`s a flea market in my town Wed. so should find one there.
Thanks Paul.

And I thought you guys would like te rooster. :hmm:
 
The rooster is okay.

I suspect you have now found out that that draw knife works better, and faster for peeling logs, if you turn the knive edge to a 30 degree angle to your stroke. The slicing action is much easier to control so you only remove the bark, and not gouge down into the wood. And a sharp edge on a draw knife is an absolute MUST! Most new draw knives do NOT have a sharp edge. Same with new chisels.
 
I've found all my spokeshaves and drawknives at flea markets. As well as rabbet planes and untold numbers of chisels and gouges. For new stuff try Constantines or Garret-Wade, they can get a bit pricey. Hint: If the person at the flea market knows what a tool is called they probably know what it's worth too. If they call it a "thingy" you might get a deal. Billy
 
Paul, I used to peel popular logs for extra money when i was in my teens.
I know all about heat, humidity, deer flies and the best time and way to get that bark to come off. :shake:
Your right about learning to control the knife. :thumbsup:

Streetsniper, I am going to a good flea market Wed. so may find some goodies. :thumbsup:
 
Depending on the type, that bark will sure dull your tools fast. :(

I found a hand forged bark spud at a flea market. $8. Haven't put a handle on it yet. :shake:
 
If we peeled the popular at just the right time we would use an axe to get under the bark on one end and pull it off in strips the whole length.

Found this nice Stanley no. 53 spoke shave today.

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Despite being an ancient tool, spokeshaves are still being made and are fairly common to woodworking stores like Woodcraft and Rockler, both of which have outlets in many areas of the country and put out great mailorder catalogs. You might also get lucky at a Lowe's or Home Depot. Harborfreight sells a 2 piece set of both a flat and a round face spokeshave for $9.99.

I like the idea of buying an "antique" if you can find them at a reasonable cost. If you are handy, you might try making one yourself!
 
Higgins said:
Despite being an ancient tool, spokeshaves are still being made and are fairly common to woodworking stores like Woodcraft and Rockler, both of which have outlets in many areas of the country and put out great mailorder catalogs. You might also get lucky at a Lowe's or Home Depot. Harborfreight sells a 2 piece set of both a flat and a round face spokeshave for $9.99.

I like the idea of buying an "antique" if you can find them at a reasonable cost. If you are handy, you might try making one yourself!

I got this last one for 25 bucks and it shows it at 100 in the book.
We have a home depot not far from here that i haven`t checked yet.
Heck I think I have enough now anyway, but you know how it is. :grin:
 
My new shave don`t work :shake: or i`m not understanding it :hmm:
The screw on the front opens the jaw so you can adjust the blade but what does the screw on the back do. The blade won`t stay in place, must be something missing in relationship to that back screw.
Help

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Touchy thing to adjust, don`t want much blade sticking out or it chatters. Maybe one of you more experienced wood workers can give a quick lesson on setting one up and using.

Also, should a person let the wood dry before shaving it into what ya want to shave green, I shaved the ash walking stick green but now it`s cracking bad as it dries and i have it in the garage out of the sun.
Thanks.
 
YOu want to cut ash, hickory, oak, etc. hardwoods that you intend to use as handles or " sticks " in the depth of winter, when the sap is down. Otherwise, you are going to have checking, and cracks when you cut the stave in the spring or summer. Even in Early Fall is some locations. Wait until the leaves are off the trees before cutting staves.
 
paulvallandigham said:
YOu want to cut ash, hickory, oak, etc. hardwoods that you intend to use as handles or " sticks " in the depth of winter, when the sap is down. Otherwise, you are going to have checking, and cracks when you cut the stave in the spring or summer. Even in Early Fall is some locations. Wait until the leaves are off the trees before cutting staves.

Thanks Paul, guess it will be something to do at the cabin this winter, set up by a nice fire out side and go to shaving. :thumbsup:
 
With the current stave, let it check. then fill the checks with epoxy or with wood glue and sawdust, and finish the stick. It will be stronger for your work. Most people like to cover the handle area of a walking stick with leather or fur. That can also cover a lot of checks where they are more likely to be seen.

I think naturally checked wood has " character", and as long as the stick is not split through, there is no reason to not use it. I have also seen people do intricate carving of walking sticks, that conceals much of the repaired checks.
 
Yepper, the checks don`t bother me as long as not to deep like ya said.
As soon as it dries a little more i`m going to make a metal cap with short spurs on it for the bottom and dress the rest up in some fashion. :)
 
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