Help with refinishing my muzzle crown

[PluggedNickel]

The Smith did a great job! Didn't overcharge you, and I think you will find the pistol shoots to your satisfaction now. Nice job of touching up the bluing as well.
Post us some pictures when you get a chance to shoot it. Enjoy!

 

[oldwolf]

I agree, it does look like he did a good job.
I plan to get it the range in the next few weeks and will be sure to post some pictures.
Still need to cast some balls for it. I have 0.010" and 0.018" patch material available to me at the moment.
Wouldn't mind finding some more around 0.015".

 

[PluggedNickel]

I agree, it does look like he did a good job.
I plan to get it the range in the next few weeks and will be sure to post some pictures.
Still need to cast some balls for it. I have 0.010" and 0.018" patch material available to me at the moment.
Wouldn't mind finding some more around 0.015".

Sounds good. I too am having some trouble finding various thicknesses of patch material. I may end up going to a sewing store that sells material in bulk, take my micrometer, and get several life time supplies, and like others, cut my own. I’m beginning to understand why so many do this now.

 

[oldwolf]

Agreed. The .018 I bought form Walmart and the 0.010 is an old sheet.

 

[Griz44Mag]

The Smith did a very nice job with the crown. Does not matter if it is an economy piece or a 5,000 dollar artwork, If you want it right and find the right help, you did good! You will find many wet blankets here, ignore them. I personally like the piece and know you will get many rounds of enjoyment from it. Thank you for posting.

 

[Baxter]

Phew! Well, we all got through this muzzle-dent thing ok.

 

[WVAED]

I am attaching a picture of a barrel I recently cut off with a hack saw, filed "square" then crowned with a round stone, in a drill. I allowed the stone to cut some of the shape, then used valve lapping compound on a piece of pillow ticking on the muzzle with the round stone in the drill to turn it. Then I continued adding the lapping compound for about 5 minutes of work. It turned out good in my opinion and shoots excellent.

 

[Idaholewis]

I am attaching a picture of a barrel I recently cut off with a hack saw, filed "square" then crowned with a round stone, in a drill. I allowed the stone to cut some of the shape, then used valve lapping compound on a piece of pillow ticking on the muzzle with the round stone in the drill to turn it. Then I continued adding the lapping compound for about 5 minutes of work. It turned out good in my opinion and shoots excellent.

That Crown looks REALLY Good!

 

[oldwolf]

Yep, it looks great. Next time I'll try to do it myself. I do have a .32 caliber barrel that may need a bit of dressing.

 

[45man]

I silver soldered ball bearings on rods and used abrasives to make crowns. Just break to the grooves. Many barrels are crowned deep so it does not hurt to drop on concrete. How many of you drop guns or jam into stuff?

 

[45man]

Coning is an interesting idea.

Not going to happen in any of my rifles. That is like cleaning rod wear that ruined too many guns.

 

[TFoley]

One of the reasons a pal's Musketoon shot like a blind man holding a hose was down to a series of nicks in the entire circumference of the muzzle - I've yet to figure out how they were made, but I do know that all that lack of a decent crown played merry h**** with accuracy. Figuring that anything would be an improvement on a nice-looking little rifle that would put ten shots in a 12" 'group at 25 yards, I applied valve-grinding paste in ever-reducing grades of finety to a toilet-seat bolt, rotated by means of a hand drill Making sure to make full revolutions and never stopping in the same place, it took less than half an hour to restore the crown to as-new condition. It still shoots, almost twenty years later, ten shots at 25m into a large raggedy hole, and at 50m into around three inches or so - the limit of his and my shooting ability.

Cost was minimal - he had the old motor-cycle fixings of valve paste, and I had the toilet seat bolt.

Mind you, Mrs tac had to remind me to put it back afterwards.

 

[54ball]

Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr

Crowns?? We don't need no stinking crowns.


Just joking, You did that pistol right.

 

[bang]

Square the face. Gently remove excess mauling. I use a rounded end screw diriver with a fitted piece of emery cloth faceted and glued to round end turned on slowest speed of variable drill. Gently and squarely chamfer til there is an even line at top of riflings completely around circomfrence.
Another method I've used and this is out of the box totally. A multi faceted tappered carbide rotary file. By hand. Turn reverse till equal out to barrel edge. This of course will create a deeper angle but can achive as good results. I use this method on a pistol that was hitting 12" high and 12" right at 25ft and now it hits just a bit high but inline. Same method can be used to ease the angle at breach too. Like I've said, some will cough and sputter at this but it has worked for me and if done with diligence and care can achieve good results.

 

[45man]

I cut the barrel down on my swede and crowned with a ball. It will hold 1/4" at 100 yards. I have done the same with every muzzle loader. Just hand work.

 

[oldwolf]

What do you mean by "Ball"? Thanks.

 

[TFoley]

What do you mean by "Ball"? Thanks.

A 'ball' in this case is an actual ball-shape tool made of some kind of abrasive material mounted on a small-diameter steel shaft that enables it to fit into the chuck of a drill - electric or hand. Here in UK they are called 'mounted points' and are generally used for precision grinding of metals using a hand-held power tool at VERY high speed. My Bosch grinder looks like a drill but has a no-load speed of 35,000 rpm.

Needless to say, using this to remake your crown might end up with you reducing your barrel to a short stump next to the hammer, which is why many of us here, me included, like to use a hand-cranked drill, or simply a hand-cranked hand to do the job.

 

[BlackHillsBob]

it looks like everyone here knows how to make a perfect muzzle one way or another. i will give every one a tip if you think your muzzle needs to be reworked. i can do this easily because i live very very rural and nothing and i mean nothing is behind my house for miles, not even roads. i will load the muzzleloader as i always do on a night with no moon and total darkness. i will go turn off the yard light and the porch lights. i will have my son or a friend shoot the gun north where their is no one but just wild critters. i will stand back and look at the ball of fire at the muzzle. if any thing happens but a totally semi round ball of fire it needs work. their can be no evern slight fingers coming off that clear ball of fire. it has to be perfect in shape. any odd shapes or fingers will destroy accuracy. the ball of fire must be perfect. i think every one who reads this can see that in their mind. also remember when your shooting alot grease and blackpowder residue built up on a perfect muzzle makes a imperfect muzzle. always wipe your muzzle clean between shots. grease on the muzzle can create a finger of flame that can push the bullet off.

 

[ThumperJones]

I use these tools from Brownells. You need a pilot to fit the bore for each size. I cut the pilots in my mini lathe. They are offered in a facing cut too to square the bore. Not cheap, but what is accuracy worth to you? They do last a long time from my experience. I use mine frequently and still on the first set.

 

[TFoley]

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