How to cut grease notches in a ‘58 Remington cylinder pin?

[Widows Son]

Hello all, I hope everyone is well.

I recently bought a Uberti Remington Navy .36 and have been investigating ways that people have used to keep the cylinder easily spinning through the powder fouling. I’ve read a few posts about cutting small notches along the cylinder pin to hold grease.

This seems like a good idea. I’m asking if anyone has done it and what your results were?

Thanks for your consideration.

 

[Gtrubicon]

I’ve been thinking about this recently myself. I don’t think the grooves have to be to deep, I was thinking of using a corner of a triangle file to create the grooves. I haven’t landed on how many grooves I will do but am thinking maybee 6 grooves in a half inch or so.

 

[AlexB]

Given the small size and what I nave seen from gas cutting over time I wouldn't do it myself.
I usually give the pin and cylinder face a wipe while reloading and they run smoothly all day.

 

[Blackpowderart]

I've never done it, but I thought about buying a course thread "die" and run it down the pin.

 

[M. De Land]

Hello all, I hope everyone is well.

I recently bought a Uberti Remington Navy .36 and have been investigating ways that people have used to keep the cylinder easily spinning through the powder fouling. I’ve read a few posts about cutting small notches along the cylinder pin to hold grease.

This seems like a good idea. I’m asking if anyone has done it and what your results were?

Thanks for your consideration.

I wonder if perhaps two parallel grooves offset from one another at 3 and 9 o'clock might not be a better solution for a base pin grease reservoir. This is easily accomplished in a mill or lathe with a metal slitting saw. This method I believe would leave the base pin stronger than radial cuts and would accomplish the same goal.

 

[hawkeye2]

45D (Mike) has posted here about his modification which involves cutting a groove across the top of the cylinder pin at the junction of the pin and frame. A common modification among serious N-SA shooters is to fit a bushing to the cylinder which covers the cylinder/frame gap. This requires milling a notch in the frame for the bushing to fit in.

 

[45D]

45D (Mike) has posted here about his modification which involves cutting a groove across the top of the cylinder pin at the junction of the pin and frame.

Thanks hawkeye2 ! Here's a pic.

Mike

 

[wiscoaster]

I recall some time ago viewing a YouTube video on this very topic. I don't remember what channel, and it's so long ago to no longer be in my history, but it might be worth the OP's while to search YouTube for it. If I had to take a wild guess, it might have been "duelist1954" (Mike Belliveau)

 

[Ed C.]

This is not that complicated. I just used the corner of a small triangle file to put 3 very shallow groves in the pin on my Remingtons. That and Mobil 1 grease keeps the cylinder running free for the 30 shots I usually take in a session.

 

[rodwha]

I just squirt a little Ballistol down in there periodically and all runs just fine. If I could shoot more than a dozen cylinders without fuss I’d be all ears.

 

[Colonial Boy]

I did a rather drastic modification on a cheap Remington repro about 40 years ago [hence the blurry picture], this pistol was an experiment, note the rear sight and the shield over the caps.
The mod is the deflector in front of the cylinder [to which it is attached], the mod also included filing part of the frame away.

I have also fitted on another Remington, an ‘O’ ring which did a good job of keeping lubricant in and fouling out.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Triangular needle's files.

 

[Mike in FL]

I just squirt a little Ballistol down in there periodically and all runs just fine. If I could shoot more than a dozen cylinders without fuss I’d be all ears.

Me too. Ballistic or more often Moosemilk. I might be the only person alive that does a sort of cleaning every six shots. That includes cleaning the barrel with Ballistol and squirting some into the action. I'm weird that way. With rifles I clean after every shot.

 

[SPQR70AD]

I shot my 1958 60-70 times with Pyrodex and BP never had the cylinder slow down at all. no grease on the pin.

 

[Gtrubicon]

My 58 starts getting gritty after two cylinders, after the fourth it needs a wipe down. With grease it helps.

 

[nick_1]

my steel 58 is nice and tight and runs all day with T7. My brass 58 is as loose as a tic tock girl and gets stiff after two cylinders. My take is that the loose brasser lets the gasses get in there while the tight steel rig is not letting much gas in there.

 

[Sparkplug]

Me too. Ballistic or more often Moosemilk. I might be the only person alive that does a sort of cleaning every six shots. That includes cleaning the barrel with Ballistol and squirting some into the action. I'm weird that way. With rifles I clean after every shot.

I run a patch every cylinder. I also pull the cylinder every 5 reloads and run a patch and give the pin a quick wipe and a little grease. The latter adds maybe 30 seconds to my reload time but keeps me shooting all day.

 

[SPQR70AD]

my steel 58 is nice and tight and runs all day with T7. My brass 58 is as loose as a tic tock girl and gets stiff after two cylinders. My take is that the loose brasser lets the gasses get in there while the tight steel rig is not letting much gas in there.

I got a brass 58 fired it at least 800 times over the years still as tight as when I bought it and as tight as the new steel 58. I think I read they switched to different brass. probably went to harder brass

 

[nick_1]

My brasser is a 2020 pietta Buffalo. Try another 800 rnds and get back to us.

 

[SPQR70AD]

My brasser is a 2020 pietta Buffalo. Try another 800 rnds and get back to us.

I do not have time money or desire to hunt for caps powder like trying to find amelia earhart so I can fire 1000's of shots out of the revolver a month