Well, I wouldn't try that trick with Italian (or Chinese) screws. It seems to me that's a sure-fired way to risk buggering a perfectly good, but soft metal, screw.
I got a screw loose!
- Thread starter Wheelman
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The first rule of not buggering screws is to get drivers that are hollow ground and actually fit the slot correctly, full width. I use the multiple tip kit's from Brownell's which also comes in a thin bit set for high end shot gun screws.
Loc-tite is fine for screws that are not going to be removed frequently for cleaning purposes as with BP percussion pistols but it's a new-sense if you break them down after each use as I like to do. Blue loc-tite will work for screws that need removed occasionally but it will promote screw head bugger without properly fitting driver tips. Red loc-tite is for permanent screws.
Even softer headed screws will yield to hollow ground driver tips that fit them correctly.
Screws properly secured or removed with the suggestion I gave about giving the driver tip a sharp rap before turning will stay tight or be removed without thread locker. I learned this technique 40 years ago in gunsmith school if I remember correctly.
Vibrations and temperature changes that go on in a house will loosen screws.
The "sharp rap" is not the "wack" you described previously. Agreed to "rap" but not to "wack".
No kidding. It must be some kind of voodoo. Some kind of DNA in the screws they always know how to work themselves loose. "I want to be FREE!!!"
I left a message at the number the auto reply gave my yesterday when I sent an email and described the current problem.
No reply yet.
I am going to take it apart tonight again and clean it this time. Will try to remember to snap some pictures of the hammer and the bolt spring.
Leaning towards ordering a parts kit and replacing the hammer and bolt spring. Sounds like I am going to need some parts in inventory.
Thanks to everyone for ALL of the input. I wanted to learn but wasn't thinking it would be this fast.
I have its consecutively numbered twin on my shelf. I am planning on giving to a friend of mine for helping me out with a project. I am tempted to take it apart and compare the wear. Also wondering if the twin will have the same issues.
Careful what you wish for I guess.
Cheers!
Wheelman.
No reply yet.
I am going to take it apart tonight again and clean it this time. Will try to remember to snap some pictures of the hammer and the bolt spring.
Leaning towards ordering a parts kit and replacing the hammer and bolt spring. Sounds like I am going to need some parts in inventory.
Thanks to everyone for ALL of the input. I wanted to learn but wasn't thinking it would be this fast.
I have its consecutively numbered twin on my shelf. I am planning on giving to a friend of mine for helping me out with a project. I am tempted to take it apart and compare the wear. Also wondering if the twin will have the same issues.
Careful what you wish for I guess.
Cheers!
Wheelman.
Just got an email and they are sending a screw.
I responded by email and asked if they could send a hammer and bolt spring as well and if so, that I would try and fix it and if that didn't work, then I would need to open a ticket and send it in.
I figured why not give it a try?
I responded by email and asked if they could send a hammer and bolt spring as well and if so, that I would try and fix it and if that didn't work, then I would need to open a ticket and send it in.
I figured why not give it a try?
Why not? 
I just spoke with Charlie at EMF. He is a senior gunsmith. Very nice fellow by the way.
Told him I am a noobie and would like to try and fix it myself.
After I explained everything, he said it was likely the cam on the hammer and that he would send me one along with a screw.
I asked about the twin on the shelf and he agreed to send me 2 hammers so I could include one with the gift pistol.
He reminded me that these guns are warrantied for one year from purchase and that if had any other problems to contact them and send it in for repair.
This is by far the best service I have experienced in years.
Hats off to these guys.
Wheelman
Told him I am a noobie and would like to try and fix it myself.
After I explained everything, he said it was likely the cam on the hammer and that he would send me one along with a screw.
I asked about the twin on the shelf and he agreed to send me 2 hammers so I could include one with the gift pistol.
He reminded me that these guns are warrantied for one year from purchase and that if had any other problems to contact them and send it in for repair.
This is by far the best service I have experienced in years.
Hats off to these guys.
Wheelman
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Gun fairies
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Sorry for the misunderstanding as Wack and Rap are equivalent terms to me.The "sharp rap" is not the "wack" you described previously. Agreed to "rap" but not to "wack".
So i was advised to wack a stuck nipple after soaking a bit and it unscrewed fine
So there is that
So there is that
Well, OK, I understand, except if it was my head, I'd rather get rapped than wacked.
Oh,wow, you've really got me howling with double entendres ... I think maybe it's time for happy hour.
Gave the twin to my buddy. His first muzzleloader although he has hunted his whole life. It would not cycle after we loaded it although it seemed fine when I cleaned it and wiped it with Ballistol.
We got a few shot off but that was it. In the interest of safety I said we are done dealing. Of course, I was convinced it was the hammer cam. After all, I am an egg spurt after 7 days.
My dad would always say, A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. Smart dude.
Anyhoo, My Charley actually returned my call and politely told me I had the barrel jammed against the cylinder by monkey hammering the wedge. Well, he was more polite.
Called my buddy and told him we both got a lot to learn.
Invited him for coffee.
Durp Durp Durp.
Be safe this weekend!
Wheelman
We got a few shot off but that was it. In the interest of safety I said we are done dealing. Of course, I was convinced it was the hammer cam. After all, I am an egg spurt after 7 days.
My dad would always say, A little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. Smart dude.
Anyhoo, My Charley actually returned my call and politely told me I had the barrel jammed against the cylinder by monkey hammering the wedge. Well, he was more polite.
Called my buddy and told him we both got a lot to learn.
Invited him for coffee.
Durp Durp Durp.
Be safe this weekend!
Wheelman
Short arbor syndrome, do a search of the handgun site.
I will.
I thought it was an uberti thing.
Thanks
I thought it was an uberti thing.
Thanks
Manufacturing tolerances can stack to create a short or long arbor/barrel fit up though short is by far the most common.
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I examined both Piettas today after reading a bit about short arbors.
At this point, I am not convinced it is my issue.
My only experience is with Dan Wessons.
I had a 14-2 and 15-2 Munsons. Too tight and no cycle.
They came with a metal gauge to set the gap.
Concept has got to be the same here. Just different pressure points.
It appears the finish on the face of the cylinder could be just enough to create the problem.
Not jamming the wedge seems like it might work along with smoothing the cylinder face with some metal polish.
Gonna try it this way.
Anything wrong with using a lubed wad as a temporary spacer if i need more gap? I had not seen this option discussed.
Be safe out there.
Wheelman
At this point, I am not convinced it is my issue.
My only experience is with Dan Wessons.
I had a 14-2 and 15-2 Munsons. Too tight and no cycle.
They came with a metal gauge to set the gap.
Concept has got to be the same here. Just different pressure points.
It appears the finish on the face of the cylinder could be just enough to create the problem.
Not jamming the wedge seems like it might work along with smoothing the cylinder face with some metal polish.
Gonna try it this way.
Anything wrong with using a lubed wad as a temporary spacer if i need more gap? I had not seen this option discussed.
Be safe out there.
Wheelman
