Well, steel is better for the forces you're dealing with. I doubt a lubed wad will handle it.
"Not jamming the wedge . . . "
If the wedge is causing the problem, it's definitely a short arbor problem. Pre 2012 (or so) tend to have short arbors.
Mike
I got a screw loose!
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Well, steel is better for the forces you're dealing with. I doubt a lubed wad will handle it.
"Not jamming the wedge . . . "
If the wedge is causing the problem, it's definitely a short arbor problem. Pre 2012 (or so) tend to have short arbors.
Mike
Thanks.
These are new piettas.
Next step is to find some small split washers and see what I see.
Not sure I can do too much damage playing with spacers.
I have read where some say the wedge should be tightly installed.
Others say just as long as it is in there.
I would assume a tight barrel would be more accurate.
Wheelman
These are new piettas.
Next step is to find some small split washers and see what I see.
Not sure I can do too much damage playing with spacers.
I have read where some say the wedge should be tightly installed.
Others say just as long as it is in there.
I would assume a tight barrel would be more accurate.
Wheelman
Um, as long as you bend the "split washers" into flat washers ( why not just use flat ?).
Yeah, I'd go along with that . . .
Well, just in there? Why bother ? Maybe put it in your pocket just in case ?
Of course a "fixed" barrel would be more accurate than a loose one. Try searching "short arbor"
Mike
I appreciate the tips!
Reading this, most screw damage comes from cam out sometimes even with proper fitting blades. One tip I can give is use some valve LAPPING compound, not the grinding its a finer grade, it adds grip to the driver to help eliminate slippage. Works on aircraft screws!
coupe
coupe
I've always checked the screws on a new percussion revolver for tightness before ever doing the first loading. Have found a few here and there over the years (cap and ball shooting sine 1972) that were loose. Just a precautionary measure. I've even done so on newly bought modern firearms whether they're new or used. Check them off and on also when not doing a complete disassembly. Use proper hollow ground screwdrivers, not some Craftsman or Stanley driver outa yer toolbox. In regards to arbor fix, I've used four thickness of brass washers same diameter as the arbor to get a solid fit on my cappers that needed it, even stoned down the thinnest of the four to get a fit. If you do the washer route (forget about split washers) just remember when you separate the barrel and frame to catch it and replace when reassembling. I put a small dab of grease on the washer so as to hold it in place. Works high 90% of time. Not all of my Uberti's needed arbor fitting. Some say all do, but I have four that didn't, even paper thin brass washers were too much. Other Uberti owners on another forum have mentioned the "not need" for arbor fitting on Uberti revolvers. One of these days I hope to do a permanent fix to the arbors and forget about the washers, but they do such a great job, that's why I've put doing so on the backburner. If the arbor needs fitting do so, but its sort of like crossing a river, why get yer pants wet when there's a bridge nearby.
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You're an A&P?
I've been shooting Uberti produced 1851s (although they all have Colt markings), since 1986 and have never faced a short arbor "problem". They might or might not be, but if you don't force the wedge to the point that your cylinder won't turn, you don't have a problem. My guns set up to shoot, will run all day with a tight .002" of barrel/cylinder gap. Synthetic grease on the arbor, 15 grains of 3F Goex, a lubed wad and a .375 Hornady round ball. If the .375 doesn't cut a slight "ring" off lead off the ball, go to .380s.
if you read the permatex recommendations blue loc tite is for 1/4 inch and up, purple is what should be used on most gun screws . red should never see a gun.
Yes, light loads in a 36 won't have noticeable effects because of a short arbor. Of course to your point about being able to lock the cylinder up because of the wedge that = short arbor.
How do you "set yours up"?
Mike
The removable washer is my (semi) permanent fix. Theoretically everything should stay the same but just in case it doesn't I like the idea of being able to easily change or adjust the washer thickness. Seems to me, in life, nothing ever stays the same.
For sure like mine.Sort of like life.
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy every single second of it.
You and I can argue Pietta vs Uberti 'till the good Lord cometh home, but the rest will never get proper arbor fit or Rem vs Colt!!!!!!Um, as long as you bend the "split washers" into flat washers ( why not just use flat ?).
Yeah, I'd go along with that . . .
Well, just in there? Why bother ? Maybe put it in your pocket just in case ?
Of course a "fixed" barrel would be more accurate than a loose one. Try searching "short arbor"
Mike
Of course we can!!!
( how many have you worked on?)The Uberti vs Pietta ?!
All my conversions are Uberti's!!
Imput from close sources tend to agree with me between the two . . .
As far as my testing of the open-top platform, I'll stick with what I have.
I'll be more than happy to test Pietta's when I'm done with my own revolvers.
Mike
So after a bit more reading up on the subject, i do not think I have a short arbor on either of the piettas. If i put the barrel on at 90 degrees more or less, it looks like it lines up ok. If i rotate it, it looks spot on. I took a picture but I had to take it at an angle. I am trying to show with the arbor all the way in, the paper is not bending.
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Piettas for several years now have not had a short arbor problem. If I remember correctly, Pietta solved this 15+ years ago. It's just Uberti now with the short arbor on Colt replicas that they REFUSE to address.
That's really not a valid test for short arbor. You have to clean up the arbor ( remove material) to be able to insert the arbor fully so that you can then turn the barrel assy down to meet the frame to then see if you have a short arbor. Loss of material for a test doesn't make much sense. It's easy enough to just drop a thin washer down the arbor hole and see if you can assemble the revolver. If you can, get a thicker washer. When you can't, sand the washer down until you can and you're good to go.
Then you'll still have the material you'd waste for a test!
Mike
Thanks Mike,
I think that I did that as the guns have like 3 shots down one and 12 down the other. Having said that, I am going to try the washer and see for sure. I was able to rotate the barrel pretty easily and "knock it" against the gun to get it right next to the pins while applying pressure to ensure the arbor was seated on both piettas. But why not see for sure? I guess if there are gaps then that will tell the story? On another note, I got curious and took the barrel and cylinder off the Gen 3 colt 1851 and I could not easily twist the barrel on the arbor and it may indeed have a short arbor based on these tests and observations to date. It almost felt like the arbor was twisting but I did not monkey with it long once I realized that it was oily and dirty. This gun was shot and it does need a good cleaning. Just holding off until I get a bit more comfortable with these 1851s. I think once I get the parts from EMF and I strip mine down one more time and replace the hammer, I might be ready to clean the Gen 3 and see what I see.
Only one way to get experience I guess.
Again, thanks to ALL for the input.
Wheelman
I think that I did that as the guns have like 3 shots down one and 12 down the other. Having said that, I am going to try the washer and see for sure. I was able to rotate the barrel pretty easily and "knock it" against the gun to get it right next to the pins while applying pressure to ensure the arbor was seated on both piettas. But why not see for sure? I guess if there are gaps then that will tell the story? On another note, I got curious and took the barrel and cylinder off the Gen 3 colt 1851 and I could not easily twist the barrel on the arbor and it may indeed have a short arbor based on these tests and observations to date. It almost felt like the arbor was twisting but I did not monkey with it long once I realized that it was oily and dirty. This gun was shot and it does need a good cleaning. Just holding off until I get a bit more comfortable with these 1851s. I think once I get the parts from EMF and I strip mine down one more time and replace the hammer, I might be ready to clean the Gen 3 and see what I see.
Only one way to get experience I guess.
Again, thanks to ALL for the input.
Wheelman
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