• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

I want one of these...

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ryzman

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Messages
289
Reaction score
1
blackbeautyrevisedpicture2rev1.jpg


anyone use this mix of ingredients to finish a stock?
1 part varnish
2 parts linseed oil
3 parts turpentine

im no where near the finishing process but just wanted to do some question asking as early as possible to get the most feedback.
 
to elaborate

the varnish is oil based, and the linseed oil is boiled? i guess the turpentine could be mineral spirits? i have no idea just a recipe i found...
 
What kind of varnish are you using?

I've used a mixture of Formby's tung oil varnish and boiled linseed oil with good results. The turpentine is just a thinner.
 
Keep in mind that in older recipes,oil based varnishes were not polyurethanes. Most polyurethanes arenot compatible with turpentine or linseed oil whether boiled or raw.
 
Why bother ? IMHO, you can get the same finish with Permalyn or Tru-Oil...... It is all on how you apply it.
Somewhre in my mess I have a Cabelas Hawken kit I have never assembled, has a stock with grain very similar
to that, if I recall correctly. Need to dig that think out, assemble it & donate it to some place.....

Keith Lisle
 
Birddog6 said:
Why bother ? IMHO, you can get the same finish with Permalyn or Tru-Oil...... It is all on how you apply it.
Somewhre in my mess I have a Cabelas Hawken kit I have never assembled, has a stock with grain very similar
to that, if I recall correctly. Need to dig that think out, assemble it & donate it to some place.....

Keith Lisle

Might I suggest my favorite charity...... ME!!! :v
 
ya i was just looking around at different peoples ideas on finishing and this recipe came up. i guess if you want a real high gloss its the way to go. but i have no experience with it so can not say one way or the other. the guy said he had used it on several of his BP rifles. :idunno:
 
I have used those identical ingredients but in equal ratios. It worked very well and I would, and probably will, use it again.

I have also done a fair number of guns with Permalyn and one with Tru Oil. They are not the same as your recipe, and they are not the same as each other. Tru Oil is a tung oil and Permalyn is an oil-based polyurethane. I really like Permalyn and it comes in two "flavors" a sealer and regular. Some people just use the sealer. In any event, all three are good, but Permalyn is probably the toughest of the three and your mix is the most traditional. All three are about as easy to use.

Brent
 
ryzman said:
ya i was just looking around at different peoples ideas on finishing and this recipe came up. i guess if you want a real high gloss its the way to go. but i have no experience with it so can not say one way or the other. the guy said he had used it on several of his BP rifles. :idunno:

With Tru-Oil you can make it high, med, low, satin, aged finish...... you can make the end results look however you want it. It is not how it just turns out, it is how YOU make it turn out....


Keith Lisle
 
Agreed, I have not used other finished other than tung-oil and boiled linseed oil. I can't say I will ever use the last 2 again, I have used it though on allot of guns. I may, that is a big may, use tung-oil, but never BLO. I am hooked though on Tru-Oil.I can give you any finish you prefer and it will be durable as well, with Tru-Oil.
 
Is high gloss HC? We all see the museum pieces, but they have a patina that comes with age. I am just curious if gloss was as popular in times past as it is today?

As for me, it sure looks purdy, but I expect I'd not want it on mine when I'm out stalking deer or elk.
 
you might also consider watco danish oil finish. it's like oil,varnish, and wax all together or something along those lines. also comes in walnut tone and maybe others. produces a nice low sheen finish. just wipe it on, let soak a bit and iwpe off then buff with a soft rag. for what it's worth, bubba.
 
bubba.50 said:
you might also consider watco danish oil finish. it's like oil,varnish, and wax all together or something along those lines. also comes in walnut tone and maybe others. produces a nice low sheen finish. just wipe it on, let soak a bit and iwpe off then buff with a soft rag. for what it's worth, bubba.

Ha! Another sole who uses Watco! I have used several different finishes, and Watco does a great job without some of the mess I do not like with boiled linseed oil. You can use a leather dye mixed in the the Watco oil if you want. Just use a test strip to get the tone you are looking for. American black walnut needs no extra staining.
 
Hah!! Three in a row! I have used Watco oil for about 35 years, and love the ease in which it works. Just follow the instructions. I put it on a bird's eye maple cf stock, and it still looks good. :thumbsup:
 
Four in a row. Love Watco. Easy to use, dries fast, and foolproof. Very water resistant with a medium sheen. I like to mix the first couple of coats with thinner, assuming it will penetrate deeper. Bill
 
I use Chambers stock finish. It's the only one I need. After the first time I just don't use anything else.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top