bought a used Hawken on-line a while back, I used to have one years ago. I like this one but caps are not popping - less than 50%. Bought a new container of No. 11s because the ones I had were several years old; same problem with the new caps. Inspected the hammer; I seem to remember that the hammer had a small protrusion where it strikes the cap. This hammer is smooth at the point where it strikes. If this is not the problem, I guess the spring is weak, can't think of anything else .. anyone know if the hammer is at fault? Thanks
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ignition problem
- Thread starter redkayak
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Usually, but obviously not always, it's the nipple at fault. It could be worn down enough so the hammer's not making full contact or may have been replaced, for a number of reasons, with the wrong style, etc. If a new nipple doesn't help, a qualified gunsmith may be a good option. Otherwise, if you can post descent photos it might help folks here spot a problem. Good luck.
Patocazador
54 Cal.
Perhaps your nipple is mushroomed from dry-firing by the previous owner. This would not allow your caps to sit down flush and result in misfires.
The solution is to replace the nipple.
If the above is not the case, slowly allow the hammer to contact the bare nipple and see if it is flush with the top of the nipple when all the way down. My Hawkens have a flat recessed area that strikes the cap .. no protrusion.
The solution is to replace the nipple.
If the above is not the case, slowly allow the hammer to contact the bare nipple and see if it is flush with the top of the nipple when all the way down. My Hawkens have a flat recessed area that strikes the cap .. no protrusion.
A common problem with the TC's is a simple fix.
Chances are very good the lock is dry of lube and/or dirty.
A small part in the lock called the Fly detent helps the sear skip past half cock and it's kind of a finicky little thing that likes lube. If the lock is fouled with old dry lube or the two screws that hold the inside lock plate are the tinyest bit loose that fly won't do it's job and the lock jams at half cock.
It looks like it fires but it won't hit the cap.
Simple fix;
Take the lock out, clean it well, dry it, and re-lube everything that moves. And tighten those two little screws, :wink:
Here's the fly in a Lyman lock, very much the same as TC;
Chances are very good the lock is dry of lube and/or dirty.
A small part in the lock called the Fly detent helps the sear skip past half cock and it's kind of a finicky little thing that likes lube. If the lock is fouled with old dry lube or the two screws that hold the inside lock plate are the tinyest bit loose that fly won't do it's job and the lock jams at half cock.
It looks like it fires but it won't hit the cap.
Simple fix;
Take the lock out, clean it well, dry it, and re-lube everything that moves. And tighten those two little screws, :wink:
Here's the fly in a Lyman lock, very much the same as TC;
Ken Rummer
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If not already done, look inside the cup in the hammer. I had problems when 3 or 4 fired caps got stuck in it.
ohio ramrod
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Another voice for checking your nipple. It should have a sharp knife like edge and the cap should fit all of the way down onto the nipple. Most of the problems with percussions is the nipple being "flattened". :idunno:
As suggested, the caps may not be fitting properly. Nipples are cheap. Not replacing is a bad economy. Call a vendor and tell them what rifle you have and get a couple new nipples. I favor the 'hot shot' styles. I don't understand what you mean by "protrusion" in the hammer. :idunno: 
hotoSmile:
hotoSmile:
:idunno: hotoSmile:
Billnpatti
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I understand what you mean by a tooth-like device. You were expecting the hammer to look like the hammer on a cap and ball pistol or a single action cartridge pistol. No, it is supposed to be flat as you have found out. I am glad that you changed the nipple because you often run into rifles and pistols that have been dry fired many times and it has damaged the nipple to the point that the gun won't fire a cap. Never, never :nono: dry fire a caplock rifle because it will damage the nipple if there isn't a cap on it to absorb the shock of the hammer striking it. There is no problem with dry firing a flintlock, though. That's okay and no damage will be done.
Okay, you have changed the nipple and it seems to be working better. Now, the thing to do is to thoroughly clean the lock. No telling what it was last oiled with nor how or how long it has sat. Some oils will gum up if they sit for a long time. Here's what I know to be the best way to clean a lock. Go to your nearest auto parts store and buy a spray can of either carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner. Both will do the job so buy whichever is the cheapest. Remove your lock from the stock by placing it on half cock and then removing the lock bolt located on the side opposite the lock. Usually there is only one bolt holding the lock in place but occasionally there are two. Use a screwdriver to carefully remove the bolts without messing up the slot in the head. Once you have it (them) out, the lock will lift out. Sometimes you may have to wiggle it a little bit to get it out. Once you have it out, take it and your can of cleaner out into the driveway away from cars or other painted surfaces that could be damaged by the solvent in the cleaner and thoroughly flush out the lock. Be sure to use some eye protection because that stuff really stings if you get any in your eyes and it sure can't be good for them. Be generous in your spraying because you want to flush out all of the crud that is in there. Then, if you have an air compressor, use some compressed air to blow your lock dry. If you don't have a compressor, just shake off the excess cleaner and let it air dry. The solvent is pretty thin and will evaporate quickly. Once it is dry, lightly oil the workings with something like Remoil, 3 in 1 oil, etc. Wipe off any excess oil. The inside only requires a light oiling. Excessive oil will only attract more crud. Replace your lock into the stock and replace the lock bolt(s). When you tighten it (them) down, they should be only snugged down. Over tightening the lock bolts will cause lock problems by crushing the wood fibers in the lock mortise and making the lock rub in places where it should not. Just gently snug, not King Kong tight. At this point, your rifle should be firing caps on the first try. :thumbsup:
Oh, by the way, while you have your lock out, it is a good idea to take a toothbrush and brush out the lock mortise to remove anything in there that might be lurking and waiting to get into your lock works and causing more problems. Just give it a good brushing.
Okay, you have changed the nipple and it seems to be working better. Now, the thing to do is to thoroughly clean the lock. No telling what it was last oiled with nor how or how long it has sat. Some oils will gum up if they sit for a long time. Here's what I know to be the best way to clean a lock. Go to your nearest auto parts store and buy a spray can of either carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner. Both will do the job so buy whichever is the cheapest. Remove your lock from the stock by placing it on half cock and then removing the lock bolt located on the side opposite the lock. Usually there is only one bolt holding the lock in place but occasionally there are two. Use a screwdriver to carefully remove the bolts without messing up the slot in the head. Once you have it (them) out, the lock will lift out. Sometimes you may have to wiggle it a little bit to get it out. Once you have it out, take it and your can of cleaner out into the driveway away from cars or other painted surfaces that could be damaged by the solvent in the cleaner and thoroughly flush out the lock. Be sure to use some eye protection because that stuff really stings if you get any in your eyes and it sure can't be good for them. Be generous in your spraying because you want to flush out all of the crud that is in there. Then, if you have an air compressor, use some compressed air to blow your lock dry. If you don't have a compressor, just shake off the excess cleaner and let it air dry. The solvent is pretty thin and will evaporate quickly. Once it is dry, lightly oil the workings with something like Remoil, 3 in 1 oil, etc. Wipe off any excess oil. The inside only requires a light oiling. Excessive oil will only attract more crud. Replace your lock into the stock and replace the lock bolt(s). When you tighten it (them) down, they should be only snugged down. Over tightening the lock bolts will cause lock problems by crushing the wood fibers in the lock mortise and making the lock rub in places where it should not. Just gently snug, not King Kong tight. At this point, your rifle should be firing caps on the first try. :thumbsup:
Oh, by the way, while you have your lock out, it is a good idea to take a toothbrush and brush out the lock mortise to remove anything in there that might be lurking and waiting to get into your lock works and causing more problems. Just give it a good brushing.
I have been moving away from #11 caps. I find that musket caps give much more reliable ignition. They are also much easier to manipulate. I would guess your TC has 1/4x28 threads on the nipple. Musket cap nipples are readily availabe in that size.
I converted a TC hawken flintlock to percussion using a drum, many years ago. I now wish I had not. Anyway, #11 caps were unreliable for me. I do store my rifles muzzle up. Oil does get in the breech. Even with cleaning using solvents, ie brake cleaner, I often had numerious misfires at the begining of the day. Once I got a shot off, it was fine. With musket caps it is not a problem. #11 caps have been successfully for ever. Even so, if I were hunting I would not use them. The musket caps are much more sure fire.
I have a 4-bore with a drum. That gun will not fire reliably with #11s. It is very reliable with musket caps. That is how I figure out the musket cap advantage.
I converted a TC hawken flintlock to percussion using a drum, many years ago. I now wish I had not. Anyway, #11 caps were unreliable for me. I do store my rifles muzzle up. Oil does get in the breech. Even with cleaning using solvents, ie brake cleaner, I often had numerious misfires at the begining of the day. Once I got a shot off, it was fine. With musket caps it is not a problem. #11 caps have been successfully for ever. Even so, if I were hunting I would not use them. The musket caps are much more sure fire.
I have a 4-bore with a drum. That gun will not fire reliably with #11s. It is very reliable with musket caps. That is how I figure out the musket cap advantage.
When I take a lock out of a gun I just go to the sink and pour some Dawn on the lock internals then take a nylon scrub brush to it with a touch of water. Scrub on it for a bit, run it under running water and scrub it clear of soap. Then I spray it with some 99% rubbing alcohol, wipe it down, hit it with some gun oil then take the hair dryer to it for a few minutes. Works like a charm.
Billnpatti
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Thank you for that addition. You are quite right and I didn't cover that in my posting. I made the assumption that the frizzen was down and there was a flint in the lock as would be the case if one was checking to see how a lock sparks. And you know what they say about assumptions......... Anyway, thanks for the assist.
Dave Rosenthal
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Scota4570 said:
This is a textbook example of "making SOUP" with too much oil in the breech. Just because you can get the load to go BOOM doesn't mean that everything is just hunky-dory in that breech! FWIW, you're still making "Soup" with oil and black powder fouling. Adding more spark with musket caps doesn't "fix" the problem, it merely side-steps the issue of poor cleaning habits and poor storage habits. :idunno:
Correctly cleaned percussion rifles (if cleaned & stored properly) will fire the first time, every time, and all day long. Even at Scout Day, when I did over 100 shots without a single failure-to-fire issue :wink:
At some point you may discover that the mixture in your breech has turned to tar, and is near impossible to clean. IMHO your problems would be over if you would just store the rifle muzzle-down.
May you have continued success in the hobby.
Dave
+1 on the muzzle down thing. A number of times I have forgotten to pop a cap before loading the first shot and since I keep them muzzle down I rarely have FTF on first shot.
