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Inlet compound stain removal suggestions

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rootnuke

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Ya'know that handy yet incredibly nasty stuff known as Inletting Compound. It comes in a jar the size of a thimble and lasts for about 20 years of gun building.

How do you remove that little nasty black mark and/or funky oily residue if it leaches and or is outside the inlet area on the surface of the stock?

I used Isopropal Alchohol to do some cleanup and it does pretty good but not as well as I would like.
 
Is'nt WD-40 oil?!:hmm:

This is a new stock in the white that I am whiskering for final sanding and staining.
 
I use a small scraper to remove any that shows up at this point.I find that solvents just send it deeper into the wood.The end of a sharp x-acto knife useually works for me!!
Mitch
 
My bad.... I thought it was on the parts: lock, trigger guard, etc. Yeah... don't put that on the stock or you will have trouble. If you have layout fluid on your parts, WD-40 is good stuff. I usually get most of it off with a paper towel and the rest comes off the stock when I'm sanding.

Sorry about that
SP
 
Am I the only one that uses candle soot?? Why buy inetting black? Is there advantages over candle soot I'm not aware of?
 
Used inletting black for years. Any black on the stock is gone by the time the final sanding is done (in my experience). A few years back I switched to kerosene soot. I like it MUCH better. It transferes better, cleans up better and is easier to use.
 
I use candle soot as well. But, I've found that some candles are better than others.
 
I was getting ready to post this exact question, rootnuke. You read my mind. I'm using lipstick instead of inletting black. Anyone have ideas on how to get rid of it?

Russell420
 
Am I the only one that uses candle soot?? Why buy inetting black? Is there advantages over candle soot I'm not aware of?

I use candles too, the modern ones thet ain't bee's wax!

YMHS
rollingb
 
I was getting ready to post this exact question, rootnuke. You read my mind. I'm using lipstick instead of inletting black. Anyone have ideas on how to get rid of it?

Russell420

Russell,
In Bill's new library in Arkansas, there is a new book on removing lipstick from trouser fronts. I think it involved acetone and a propane torch. :sorry:
Regards,
Terry
 
I use a small kerosene lamp and adjust it so I get black smoke. It can be adjusted to be as thick a smoke as you need. Doesn't penetrate the wood when you put the metal to the wood, and is easy to clean up.

:peace:

Later
I.C.
 
I used to use candle soot, but you can actually build up too thick a layer in some spots. Quite awhile ago I started following John Bivins recommendations and using linseed oil on the parts. It's easy to apply a thin layer, it doesn't, like, he says, "make your inletting look like a coal mine", and it still shows up well enough to see where to cut.
 
I've been happy with Permatex Prussian Blue for many years. I understand Brownell's no longer carries it. (Haven't checked their catalog, tho.) If you are desparate, I would try an auto supply store for "Bearing Blue". (rhyming unintentional) Less than 4 bucks for a (?2 oz?) tube. I have 3 lifetime's supply, so I have no experience with other brands. I dispense a small bit the stuff from the tube into a low shallow ex-wife's make-up screw-top jar for easy access. A very thin layer/coat is all that is needed; its easy to refresh, and its almost translucent so you can see any build-up. If used correctly, there isn't much left in the inlet. I scrape the residual away once the part is "let-in" and it wipes off metal effortlessly. I have had the similar experience with soot - inconsistent candle quality and sooty build-up. (Inletting the inletting material - not the part!!!) Applying oil or vaseline first is supposed to help. Blue is quicker IMHO. I agree about solvents sending the particles deeper into the wood. Its easier to hide on darker wood - obviously. My (current) wife objects to my gorgeous blue right index fingertip!!!! Lets keep our priorities in the proper order! Real men have blue fingers!!!!
 
Curiosity killed the cat......I had to go look.....
Brownell's DOES list Permatex in catalog 57, on p 253, for $2.86 for 3/4 oz tube, making it a speck less than $4.00 per oz. The black inlettng compound, that claims to be non-staining and water clean-up (?), sells for $7.40 for 1/2 oz(or $14.80 per oz!), while the companion gold compound for dark wood sells for $12.05 for 1/2 oz (or a whopping $24.10 per oz!!!!!) That information is NOT convincing enough to make me change! Make mine Permatex, thank you!
 
WOW! :: compare to gasoile @$2.00 per gal that would be.......lets see....... :hmm:
128 oz per gal.. divided by .75 =170.66666 X $2.86=
$488.10664 per gal. :what: :results:
Damn ! Gas is still pretty cheap! :imo:
But then again, gas wouldn't help mark for inleting. :crackup:

Woody
 
Well, Woody, gasoline might not help your inletting but it could help you solve some of the mistakes!!!!
 

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