Is Glass Bedding Necessary?

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Dave Poss

40 Cal.
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I've talked to some gunmakers at shoots and asked about their rifles. Some say they glass bed the the breech end of the barrel up to about half way up....others say it's not necessary to glass bed at all! Why would some builders take that extra step if it's not of benefit? What purpose does it acheive, if any? I've even heard that it has to do with useing the rifle in a humid climate. What's the real story???? ::
 
I glass bedded my one and only kit because I had removed too much wood at the breech end. :redface: I would say it's not necessary, or desireable, if you're a Fred Miller and can do a proper job of inlaying a barrel. Issac Haines, Jacob Kuntz and J.P. Beck hardly ever glass bedded their rifles. ::
 
I look at it this way. Glass bedding has been around for what, 30 years? Frontstuffers for 300+. Since it's highly unlikely you're going to be shooting, or even seriously attempting, sub minute of angle accuracy it's complete overkill. Unless of course you've got to fill in a "mistake", in which case it's perfectly acceptable as long as the owner of the gun is happy with the work.

Dick
 
Back in the olden days, when the armies of the world still built sniper rifles that had wooden stocks, we used to cut a slot in the barrel channel and fill it with glass resin to stabilize the forend from warping. We glassed the first 6" of the barrel and free floated the rest. We also hogged wood out of the reciever area and used the glass to stabalize the action as well. We could get scope sighted military clunkers to shoot MOA after honing the triggers.

It kept the changes in humidity from affecting the point of impact. Folks don't remember that much any more, what with the composite stocks and kelvar lay ups being standard now. They were miricle stuff to that generation of shooters.

If I were building a sub MIA slug gun, or a chunk gun, I would full length glass bed the barrel, including the bolster area where the tang meets the stock. On a regular weight offhand gun or lightweight hunting rifle I would use glass only to cover my mistakes, or possibly to reinforce the breech and tang on a super light gun.

Some will tell you that it is to keep the humidity from changing the POI just like in the old days. They are full of themselves! They are using the glass to cover mistakes in the barel channel!

If you left enough wood in the forend of a rifle to exert enough preasure on the barrel to throw off the point of aim you have left way too much wood in that forend! Should be only about 1/16" of wood in that forend. That does not leave much room for glass!
 
Always... It makes the stock stronger and it covers up any mistakes. I also bed the buttplate and use it to hold the nosecap on. You will never be able to tell the difference in accuracy offhand between one that is beded and one that's not, but it helps in the building process.
It also helps in the swelling of the gun.
SP
 
I let the customer decide & do it accordingly to what they want.

Necessary ? Not if everything is done perfect. I am not perfect so I use it at times. :huh:
 
I agree with slow poke, I think glass bedding makes for a stronger stock. There are a few other points to think about. On some of the cheap kits the inletting around the tang isn't that good. In may be too deep. In other words, when the barrel is in it's channel the tang(if it is a hooked type) rests in a certain spot, but if the tang alone can be pushed deeper into the inletting then there is a gap. Another consideration is the issue of a ramrod hole. Most of the inexpensive kits have the bottom of the barrel channel cut out, allowing the ramrod to run clear. There isn't much to glass bed on that type of rifle. Finally, as far as accuracy, it seems that the stock fits the barrel more than the barrel fits the stock, if you know what I mean. That along with removable wedges, etc, (if wedges are used) put a lot of variables into the mix.
I wish I was good enough at inletting that I never had to glass bed anything. Glass bedding can save the day if you screw up. Fitting on a nose cap can leave a razor thin piece of wood. If it breaks I don't know what else can be done but glass it the area. Inletting the entry pipe can be pretty tough. If it wobbles a bit a dab of glass bedding can make a perfect fit. Obviously proper inletting is preferred.
 
I only respond if I have actual experience (as opposed to what I've heard or read about) in the subject at hand so here is my experience. My inletting job at the breech lug sucked, my fore end on my stock split a bit down the middle and I opted not to add a muzzle cap but instead shaped a schnable end on my Jaeger. All of this added up to a glas-bedding job. It's not visible and it gives me peace of mind that everything is solid, snug and offers a stable platform for the .62 cal. recoil. Nothing like sending a monster ball of lead spinning downrange!
 
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