Just about fed up…

[Howard Pippin]

This idea is not too popular amongst some folks. But I had this same problem with a CVA or two and a Traditions in the past. I know, a little different breech design. I took the nipples out and used a drill bit just above the size of the existing hole and drilled the nipples out. Never had another problem with these guns. I think in these instances the replacement nipples I had purchased weren't properly drilled.

Edit: I was referring to drilling out the tiny hole in the bottom of the nipple, not the larger opening in the top...

I do that with all my nipples on my percussion guns, going up to about a .031 and that has solved all the problems with misfires using 777 or pyrodex.

 

[smokepolehall]

? if you drop a powder load down bore & hand slap powder over under nipple. Pull nipple & look to see if you actually have powder there. I knew a man whom was at the rifle range one day. He was have bad time with his ignition. Turns out the was a cleaning patch down in the BP area causing the problem.

 

[snakebit]

? if you drop a powder load down bore & hand slap powder over under nipple. Pull nipple & look to see if you actually have powder there. I knew a man whom was at the rifle range one day. He was have bad time with his ignition. Turns out the was a cleaning patch down in the BP area causing the problem.

"So that's where that went"

 

[Whiteoak15]

I traded for a CVA Hawken .54 that blew the hammer back to half **** on every shot. Someone had drilled out the nipple so it was a cylindrical hole all the way through and the charge pressure was cocking the hammer. A new hot shot nipple solved the problem. A fair amount of smoke can come back through a hole that big!

 

[longcruise]

Assuming the nipple is the proper application for the ML, It’s darn near a certainty the ML either has an obstruction somewhere that **sometimes** happens after you load (for whatever reason) or it’s the inferior components that you are using.

It's either the nipple, an obstruction or cap quality. Regards obstruction, there can be enough blockage to keep the powder from getting close enough to the nipple and still allow a snapped cap to move the paper.

 

[Elmerfudd]

I would make sure the t-shirt you are using for patch material is 100% cotton…very few are these days. If it has any polyester or other synthetic material, I would guess that you have melted plastic fouling that is falling back into your barrel when loading and plugging up the plumbing.

 

[SeaBee133]

I would make sure the t-shirt you are using for patch material is 100% cotton…very few are these days. If it has any polyester or other synthetic material, I would guess that you have melted plastic fouling that is falling back into your barrel when loading and plugging up the plumbing.

100% cotton.

 

[SeaBee133]

It's either the nipple, an obstruction or cap quality. Regards obstruction, there can be enough blockage to keep the powder from getting close enough to the nipple and still allow a snapped cap to move the paper.

Same cap tin fires the TC .50 using the same powder/charge, same patch material, same lube.
Leaning towards a partially blocked channel or a bad nipple. I can run a wire cored stiff bristled nylon brush through the channel, fire a cap and it seems fine. But load up and sometimes it fires, sometimes it won’t. If a bit of powder is added under the nipple, it goes off every time.

 

[Okie Hog]

Got back into hunting with conventional muzzleloaders in about 2010. Every year i kill 4-7 deer using conventional muzzleloaders: Most are given to families who need the meat.

In deer season my rifle remains loaded until it's fired at an animal.

It's been many years since i've had a misfire or hangfire on a deer or hog.


i don't pop caps, my patch material is drill cloth, patch lube is boot dressing.

This Traditions rain gear water proofs the bore and cap. At the end of the day, the rifle comes into the house with me.

https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-gear-gun-suppl

 

[SeaBee133]

Added some 3F via pulling the nipple. Fired off pretty as can be.
Same load but with a .490 fired fine out of the TC.
Cleaned both as normal, flushed the nipples/flash channels with carburetor cleaner. Light swab with avacado oil to combat rust.
Will load and shoot both this weekend. Both are being stored muzzle down. Will swab with denatured alcohol before loading.

 

[Frontier's]

Now, after you load up.. pull the nipple and see if powder is under there. If not, could be anything from oil contamination to a blockage in the breech.

 

[Historian]

I ran into a problem on a GM drop in barrel that I didn't like, the flash channel was only drilled part way under the nipple.

View attachment 356048

When I brought this up, everyone with a similar barrel said this was standard for a GM barrel and it worked just fine.

I wasn't fine with me, I used a Dremel and a round diamond bit to remove all of the metal you see blocking the fire from the nipple to the charge, I cut the excess at a 45-degree angle to direct the flash toward the main charge.

One of the nay-sayers was adamant that I would damage the nipple threads with my Dremel. I have years of experience using a Dremel as a power decoy carver as well as collection of bits to do almost any job that comes up, the only metal I cut was the excess in the bottom of the hole.

Do you have any excess metal in your flash hole under the nipple?

Great Point there Eric!

 

[Banjoman]

Did you ever get this figured out?

 

[SeaBee133]

Did you ever get this figured out?

Replacement standard #11 and musket cap nipples are ordered. I also switched cap tins. The CCI 11 Magnums were leaving a waxy residue on the drum and plugging up the nipple after 5 caps.