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great plains

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looking to buy a kit from t.v.m or pectonica river..cannot find a flint lock that i'like. so going to build one.looking at the tn rifle or southern rifle.. t.v.m says that there kits. the barrel will be predrilled to accept our stake type tennon..is this what holds the barrel in the stock??? they go on to say .the builder must install and inlet tennons into the stock and drill fore the pen holes??? got a lyman great plains mine dont have pins in it.. it has screws and nails... :hmm: :cursing: got any pictures of these kits the way they look win they ship them to you??????? :hmm: thanks great plains........ WORM :bow: :hmm:
 
:v From your conversation you sound as though you never built a muzzleloader befor? I recomend that you purchase a how to book or some of the many videos that are available . Befor attempting a building project . And when you do start to build remember one thing , " you are not in a race to get your rifle built, when you get tired or frustrated STOP WALK AWAY FROM IT REST AND SART AGAIN WHEN RESTED".And good luck.
 
I bought a component "kit" from Pecatonica and he reccomends that you purchase Chuck Dixon's book "Building the PA Longrifle", which I did, and which you should also. It explains a lot you don't yet understand.
 
DIXON's book is great. I would really recomemd it.
IMHO don't go with the staked tendons. Dove tailed underlugs are the way to go.
They will cut and install them for you for a small fee. Well worth it if this is your first build and you are unsure about them.
Have them cut the sight dove tails also.
Plus a mentor is a great help, someone that has build a number of rifles can help you when you get in over your head.
Go for it. If I can build one, any one can.
 
Mike Brooks did a step-by-step on building. I would still buy the book, but look at his posts to get an idea of what your getting into. Have fun.
 
Your GPR has tenons, they are those slots that the wedges go into. on these kit you will have to drill a hole thru the stock and tenon and insert a pin to hold the barrel in on a TN or Poorboy type longrifle. As has been already said, you should get hold of a building book or two, and also a couple catalogs, say MBS, or Track's. They have a lot of advice as well as providing a lot of choices. I would also recomend "The Gunsmith of Grenville County" as a good instructional building book. Any of the type kits you are looking at, are really a collection of parts, with no instructions. So welcome to the Forum, ask lots a questions, and give it a go. Bill
 
Look at Mike Brooks' gunbuilding links on the forum... I through VII. That will give you an idea what you will be facing.
 
I am using a stock that I got from Pecatonica. I wanted to redo my Lancaster to a better grade wood and correct some mistakes that I did for my first try at gun building.
First thing; GPR, T/C and traditions kits are nothing like TVM, pecatonica, track of the wolf or any of these type of dealers.
Second; Get the book that the others are talking about, this will help you see what you are getting into and give you some good information about gun building.
Finally, unless you are good at metal and wood working I would have them do as much of the added work as they can. Example: cuting the butt plate for the desired L.O.P. and butt plate that you want. Also having the inletting done on the stock for lock, tang and trigger. Getting the barrel dove tailed for the sights and tennons and installing the breach plug. If you have built many guns and know what you are doing then this is not needed but if you have not then getting these things done for you can mean the difference between a good completed kit and a interesting/expensive wall hanger. :v
 
Bill of the 45th Parallel said:
Your GPR has tenons, they are those slots that the wedges go into. on these kit you will have to drill a hole thru the stock and tenon and insert a pin to hold the barrel in on a TN or Poorboy type longrifle. As has been already said, you should get hold of a building book or two, and also a couple catalogs, say MBS, or Track's. They have a lot of advice as well as providing a lot of choices. I would also recomend "The Gunsmith of Grenville County" as a good instructional building book. Any of the type kits you are looking at, are really a collection of parts, with no instructions. So welcome to the Forum, ask lots a questions, and give it a go. Bill

Tenons and wedges .. this brings up a point .. if you have existing tenons on the barrel with the wedge slots already cut in the tenon ... what is your method/methods which you use to remove the outer forearm wood to match up with the tenon slots? :hmm:

Davy
 
If you get a kit from Track of the Wolf, they can do a lot of the harder stuff for you. You'll have to build about 6 to 10 kits in order to get good.
 
As was said, you need to buy the book to understand all that is envolved.

Also as said, you need to look at the fine posts made by Mike Brooks. To find these use the SEARCH button. Select "Advanced Search". Put "building" in the keyword window, Mike Brooks in the USER name, Select BUILDERS BENCH for the forum and poke the "search" at the bottom of the screen.

Another Key Word that works is Gunbuilding 101 but that only gets from chapter III on.

For now, try this link:
GUNBUILDING
 
I have both. The PR is more a collection of parts. You can get them to do some of the work for you -- if you know enough to ask them about it. You might want to study before ordering if nobody is there to assist.



Yes



This is common for kits.



A GPR has a wedge through a dove tailed tenon.

Take a look at some options:
[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/partList.aspx?catID=14&subID=158&styleID=712[/url]

Generally there are 3 methods of attaching the holding tabs or tenons to a barrel.

dovetail, solder or stake.

Dovetails are a cut across the flat at an angle to hold a tenon shaped to slide into this joint.

Solder is common on round barrels

A stake tenon is simply a tenon with two pins that will fit into holes drilled into the barrel. You use a punch or staking tool to push metal into the edge of hte hole to make a cold forged fit. This is not very difficult. The reason that the predrill it is because some people went too deep or did not line the holes up with the tenon pins.

Maybe some of these sharper fellahs can correct me if I misspoke anywhere.

Good luck brother!

CS
 
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:bow: going to some more home work before i' spend that much on a kit.. going buy the books first then go from there... :hatsoff: i' like the looks of lyman trade rife... thanks fore all the help..great plains WORM :hmm: :thumbsup: :)
 
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