Yes, that IS a good book. I learned a lot from it, 30 or so years back. During the 80's, I worked with ATS-34, and 440-C. I sent my blades out to Paul Bos, who was, and still is one of the best heat treaters in the world, but I think you will find that most people into the various branches of the muzzleloading hobby that this board, and others similar to it cover, are more independant in nature, and like to do, or try projects on their own, with minimal outside help, other than info gathering. In the case of knifemaking, there are many talented folks here that can pull it off pretty well, in various degrees of involvement, from kit knives on up to a complete knife from scratch. Heat treat, and all. There are also a few pros here that are very good, and knowledgable. Your post brings up an important aspect of this, and that is the choice of steel. There is so much BS spread about, regarding mystery steels, that many are led into thinking that they can use any high carbon steel, and be able to HT it properly with simple equipment and methods. A one shoe fits all approach. In the case of saw blade knives, one would most often do best by leaving the HT as is, and just carefully shape the blade without ever over heating it. There is nothing wrong with this, and one will usually get a decent knife from it. Those that want to go from total scatch, and do their own HT, can get a successful blade from any of the higher carbon 10xx series of steel, say 1060, up to 1084, but not 1095. That one is not beginner friendly, and requires a higher tech HT than most will be capable of in their backyard. Any 10xx, between 1060, and 1084 can be easily HTed with a simple cheap oil, as long as it is reasonably thin, and a simple heat source, and a little knowledge. The HT may not be the absolute best, even for 10xx, but will make a usuable blade that the maker can take pride in, since he did it all himself, and the knife acually performs well. As far as forging, or using stock removal to make a knife, I think most know by now that there is no difference in the finished blade. The key to it all is in the HT. Many just enjoy shaping a blade with heat and hammer. It gives them the feeling that they are more in touch with history, same as shooting real black powder in a traditional gun. There is really nothing wrong with your suggestions. Your approach to the matter is quite sound. The only part I would question is allowing a common welding shop do the HT. I would not trust that without knowing the shops background, expertise, and what equipment/experience they have. Here is a small Bowie I made in 1985 of 440-C. HTed by Paul Bos.