Loading the Hawkins

[KentuckyMan]

:hmm: I have notice on this forum that no body has written a thread showing newbies how to load your muzzleloader. And if so I never saw it.

So let me be the first to share with you how I load up my muzzleloader rifle, the .50 cal Hawkins. Also, Maybe you'll have comments to aid with this set up, or maybe this will turn into a sticky; due to a flawless execution of loading your muzzleloader. (All muzzleloaders load the same. There may only be a few sight differences; mostly due to people's own personal preference.

a side Note: Please keep on this thread on topic. :yakyak:

Everything you see on this picture is what's needed to fire your muzzleloader.

I use either fffg GOEX powder for both pistol, and .50 cal rifle, and I use ffg Equivalent Pyrodex powder, for my rifle only. You should start out using ffg black powder(BP) or powder Equivalent (PE) in Calibers larger than 0.50 cal. Other wise the ffg PE burns rather cleaner, but much slower than the fffg bp.

I always store my rifle in a protective case of some kind. The case keeps it dry and keeps scratches form appearing.

The First step to loading is to set our powder charge measure at 50 grains.

Pick up the flask, that contains GOEX fffg bp, and fill the measuring charge to about 50 grains of powder.

Pure the charge down the muzzle of the gun.

Now we take our patch and place it centered on the muzzle. With a round lead ball we place it in the middle, and push down with our fingers, to make sure that it's in place.

Side note: My patches are 0.015" in thickness, plus are pre-lubricated for easy loading. If your patches are not pre-Lube then I use a apply Lube on One side of the patch that is going to be face down on the muzzle. I use this Muzzleloader Bore Lube Called Bore Butter! With a fresh pine scent.

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With your loading kit, you'll need a starter rod. This short rod makes loading your shot easier with your rifle's ram rod. My's has a handle shape with a button at the end of the T part of the handle, and also a three inch Rod for pre loading.

Take the Starter rod handle end, and place the short end on top of the Lead ball. Push down and straight on top of the shot until the lead ball passes the lip of the muzzle.

Using the starter rod's shortened ram rod, push down on the ball until your rod can go any farther.

Take your main ram rod from your rifle place it on top of your shot, and push it down until seated on the powder. Do this in short 8"-12" steps.

My ram rod that came with the rifle is a bit shorter than what I'm normally conformable with. You might have to buy a longer rod to load it easier.

Remove your ram rod and place it back into it's slots under the gun, and prime your weapon.
Use number #11 Caps for the job. Place a cap on the nipple.

And your ready to fire.

Now with on the side of my gun there is a hallow cavity to where you can store, lead balls, caps, and ram rod jags. I always keep two lead balls with two patches to match, along with two caps.
I also have a patch pulling jag. This screw on to your ram rod and pulls out wads that might have gotten free during the cleaning process.

I keep the round balls underneath the patches so that I can grab them easier.

Final note:

There isn't enough room in the stock hole (as I call it) for me to put in a powder charge or two. So I always keep two charges on your persons at all time; during firing targets or hunting( mostly hunting).

For any question ask anyone on the forum (or me), and they will help you. :grin: I hope this completes the simple loading of a muzzleloader. I feel that no matter what tool you use to load your gun, it pretty much is all the same process.

Pure in your Powder first, then seat Ball/patch or conical, then
prime or cap your gun, aim, and fire.

 

[Pork Chop]

Very good tutorial, the only thing I would question is the first photo where you tell the greenhorn that they need everything in the photo - they can get by with either Pyrodex or real Blackpowder - they don't need both. Yes, you mention that in the subsequent sections, but newbies sometimes just digest a bite size at a time...

As a suggestion, after pouring the powder in, slapping the side of the stock opposite the lock will help ensure that powder gets into the flash channel, and keeping the lock at half **** will help as well.

 

[SCRUBS]

Great idea and very well done KentuckyMan. I think it would make a great sticky. :thumbsup:

 

[William O.]

Good job, thanks for taking the time to post this. :thumbsup:

 

[Pete Gaimari]

You need a powder horn instead of that brass thingy.

btw..I use 2F for everything .44 and bigger.

 

[KentuckyMan]

Yep I forgot to type out in details; what types of black powder can you use in a muzzleloader, and the general warning.

Sadly, I can't edit my post after someone has replied to it(unlike other forums something I have to get use too). However, I will post it not.

The black powder comes in 5 different types. fg, ffg, fffg, ffffg, and fffffg. The BP have the same mixture for as BP is not a compound, but a mix of Chemicals that explode when heat is applied.

The different fg's express the different grain size of the BP used. The smaller the grain size the more energy is release when the BP is ignited. Ranges are: Fg being the coarsest while 4fg being the finest grains in the BP.

We only use fg to fffg in black powder cannons, shotguns, rifles, and pistols in that order.

You'll only use 4fg and 5fg in priming flintlock rifles and pistols. NEVER USE 4fg and 5fg IN MAIN POWDER CHARGES.. There is way too much energy release for what the muzzleloaders can handle, when trying to use 4, and 5fg types. So you gun barrel may bulge or explode if you use too fine of a bp sources.

Now there is one finally rule with using fg,ffg and fffg powder types.

You still can run into trouble with barrel damages or explosion, If you either use too much of the three types of BP in your guns, rifle, cannons, etc... or put in the wrongs types in for the wrong size bores.

Your manual will give you an clear example of what you can use in your gun.
For me, I will give you an idea of what is use in what types of bores.

form 32 cal on up to 50 cal, you can safely use fffg BP. From 50 cal on up to .75cal you can use 2fg BP, also this would be used in shotguns or large bore pistols. Fg can be used in .75 cal and larger bore cannons.

Equivalent bp can be found in all of the fg sizes. The differences between Equivalent and normal BP is that the Equivalent will burn a bit cleaner. While the BP leaves more deposes behind, possibly fouling the barrel in lest time.

But when I look at the data of how much energy is release from BP vs Equivalent BP from the shooting data, found in the Lyman guild book, BP will release more energy then Equivalent powder.
The differences is small but are there.


I HIGHLY Advice Newbies to buy the Lyman Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual: All New 2nd Edition" Reloading Manual.

It will give you more information about your muzzleloaders, rather than falling this TUT alone.

ONE FINAL NOTE: NEVER USE SMOKELESS GUN POWDER IN YOUR MUZZLELOADER!!!!

Lots of people have been killed by using the wrong type of gun powder for their muzzleloader, and most used Smokeless, regardless of the warnings on their Barrels and manuals saying,"BLACK POWDER ONLY" :idunno:

Smokeless gun powder burns very slowly, and releases more energy compared to BP. Muzzleloaders need a powder that burn off quickly to focus this shockwave on the back of the bullet. While Smokeless will release so much energy it will bulge the barrel, exploding small chucks of metal will injure, or kill you, and others around you.

Also, DO NOT MIX SMOKELESS WITH BP.
Mixing a small amount of BP Like 20% of what you put down your bore, will not increase the effectiveness of your gun shot. It might do small amounts of damage to your barrel. But more or less, smokeless powder will interfere with the burning of your bp all together, and you will lose a lot of your gun's effectiveness.

 

[mykeal]

You specify the use of No. 11 percussion caps only. When specifying cap sizes the brand name is required as Remington No. 11 caps are not the same size as CCI No. 11 caps (the same goes for No. 10's).

Also, there are many percussion cap rifles which can use CCI and Remington No. 10 caps.

I can find no manufacturer which currently supplies 5f black powder or substitute black powder.

 

[KentuckyMan]

Back in the 2002 era, you could get 5fg. I remember see it once.. However, if you want 5fg just take some 3fg and grind it up to a finer powder.

What is shown in the picture is the CCI no 11 caps.

I do have some Number 10 caps by mistake, but both caps types work fine in the muzzleloaders that I have.

 

[Pete Gaimari]

I would never recommend grinding BP. It's been known to set it off.

 

[willypete]

Thanks for posting this. Great pics too!

 

[KentuckyMan]

I know Capper I know.. It's risky I'm just saying :surrender:

 

[Pete Gaimari]

I like a good surrender. :thumbsup:

 

[hanshi]

Pretty good for a basic step by step; you could write pages if you try too much detail. Still, I don't think you can overemphasize the importance of seating the ball on the powder with absolutely no space between them. Not much to fault in your tutorial.

 

[KentuckyMan]

Oh very good to see.. If I did went into more details about loading, then this tutorial would have been just as long, as the Lyman loading book.

Well, will a lot of typos. :grin: