lock and trigger lube

[kbuck]

Is jojoba oil a serviceable substitute for whale oil?

 

[M38]

I don't remember the gentelman's name, but a gunsmith was working on a lock problem with a Jaeger rifle at this years Monmouth reenactment.
He said the Kings recomended lube was petroleum jelly ...

 

[ryoung14]

I put a zerk fitting on my sideplate. I use it to pump the lock and its mortise full of Lucas Red 'N Sticky. Don't have to remove the lock that way. Just keep pumpin' 'til the red stuff comes out under the snail. Not HC, but Hey...
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Just kiddin' :grin: :thumbsup:

 

[buffler]

Hey, Swampy, sounds right. It starts with:
"first, get your bear..."
Don

 

[buffler]

I wouldn't touch this one...

 

[buffler]

I actually have a small can of whale oil; it's in a Herter's pint can.
Don

 

[buffler]

Aha. So far I can choose between plain, oil +Teflon, and lubriplate+moly, and whales or bears!
interesting!
Don

 

[Stumpkiller]

Just apply any of it with a pin or a toothpick and you'll do fine. Don't squirt it out of the bottle. As Ben Franklin used to say: "A little dab will do ye".

 

[necchi]

Aha. So far I can choose between plain, oil +Teflon, and lubriplate+moly, and whales or bears!
interesting!
Don

Yup, I think the point is too "lube".

Hang around for awhile buffler you'll see guy's come on with lock an trigger troubles gallore seeking advice,,
Only to find out that they've never had either out of the gun and are afraid to do it!

 

[Rifleman1776]

I actually have a small can of whale oil; it's in a Herter's pint can.
Don

I had a pint can bought from Brownell's in the distant past. A few years ago I got concerned the can would start leaking because it was rusting from the outside. So, I mixed it up with some beeswax and now it is my current patch lube.

 

[buffler]

Thanks to all of you; think I have the idea: keep it clean, oil it sparingly with something. I've never been slow to take it apart, sometimes destructively. I've learned a lot from that, 'specially
USE THE RIGHT SCREWDRIVER
But that's a whole new topic!
Don

 

[kbuck]

Mr. Buffler:
To go back to your original post, I have used Brownell's Action Lube on gun actions ( mostly cf) for a number of years. It seems to work well, and it doesn't gum up in cold weather. Kroil works wonders on 1911's, but I disassemble them after each shooting session and clean thoroughly. Sometimes I squirt a little more on the barrel after I run several magazines through them. Don't know how this could stay in place long enough in a flintlock to do any good, but it is something I might try at the range.

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu can buy Jojoba oil, derived from the desert plant by the same name. The oil is actually extracted from the wax obtained from the Jojoba bean. Its the Substitute for Sperm Whale Oil, and has all the properties of the now-banned oil. It doesn't seem to dry out, which is why I like to use it to lube my lock parts. :hmm: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

 

[Dphar]

0w30 Amsoil.
I use a grease on high pressure contacts that rub against each other such as old school tumbler/mainspring contacts and frizzen feet/springs without rollers.
Usually something like tetra gun grease or chassis lube, Amsoil again.
The Amsoil 0w30 used sparingly works very well and will not solidify at any temp a human should be using firearms in.
Greases will work on sear noses as well but risks gumming up the fly in cold weather.
Breakfree CLP will build up on surfaces since the solvents evaporate to form a pretty heavy film.
At least it did 20 odd years ago when I used it for awhile.

Since I use the 0w30 in a car my gun oil is free being the leftover in the bottles and drained into one. One oil change can provide a pretty good suppy of oil.
Motor oil has anti-seize additives that help prevent damage when parts rub against one another.
Something that gun oils don't usually need.
Dan

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

All friction surfaces of a lock are lightly smeared w/ auto wheel bearing grease. Don't like oil because it runs off.

This is why I use the assembly lube as it is a semi-solid

Motor oil has anti-seize additives that help prevent damage when parts rub against one another.
Something that gun oils don't usually need.
Dan

Yes, this is a great point, again.

Todays gun oil/lubricants are/were developed for todays modern firearms, they do not take into account the design of the flintlock mechanism, there just is not the rotational mass in a bolt action that you will find in a flintlock.

Automotive greases and oils provide protection in this environment and protect against the extream pressures developed by the springs on the tumblers and lockplates.

 

[Rifleman1776]

YOu can buy Jojoba oil, derived from the desert plant by the same name. The oil is actually extracted from the wax obtained from the Jojoba bean. Its the Substitute for Sperm Whale Oil, and has all the properties of the now-banned oil. It doesn't seem to dry out, which is why I like to use it to lube my lock parts. :hmm: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

Yes, I have heard of it. Never actually tried.
Actually, on the actually experiences.
My, now retired, beautiful Rev. period transitional longrifle was shot tens of thousands of times from 1976 until a few years ago when I retired it. I was never fussy about lubes, used whatever was at hand. WD-40, Break Free, and I don't know what all. Still functions perfectly no signs of wear, no slop. Just lube it with something and carry on.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Still functions perfectly no signs of wear, no slop. Just lube it with something and carry on.

Just curious, have you had that lock apart ?

 

[necchi]

Todays gun oil/lubricants are/were developed for todays modern firearms, they do not take into account the design of the flintlock mechanism, there just is not the rotational mass in a bolt action that you will find in a flintlock.

Automotive greases and oils provide protection in this environment and protect against the extream pressures developed by the springs on the tumblers and lockplates.

Aw Geez, Now that makes sence.

A 5-6 years ago I picked up a CVA MR, it's a tack driver. I used it this past `vous season and the lock is shot, the tumbler pivots along with the bridle and lock plate are worn beyond repair.

Guess I'll look around for some moly/graphite grease and give it a try with the replacement I've found.
Shooting season is done for me, but each spring they all get torn down to individual parts, cleaned, lubed and readied.
If the stuff won't slow down lock time,??

It'll take more than a single season (groan) I'm gettin too olde ta try new stuff,, :shocked2:

I remember years back as a kid using something called "GunSlick" it was a graphite based grease type lube, it made such a mess on things smeared around on everything,, :idunno:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Still functions perfectly no signs of wear, no slop. Just lube it with something and carry on.

Just curious, have you had that lock apart ?

Several times over the years. Don't recall last time.

Edit: FWIW, it is a Ray Miller built modified Siler. Most likely, properly hardened. I'll agree, El Cheapo imports probably would not fare as well in the long run.

 

[Lorne Johnson]

I'm sure it works just fine.