i wish i would have ordered 1,000 cci caps,,all i have is 25,,,ever since the virus started everything is out of stock,,,still looking for caps
me too
Thats what I thought too. I punched out some discs and pushed them through progressively smaller holes. They still folded.
One shot through a hole just slightly smaller than desired finished size. The punch should be almost the same size as the hole, around .010 smaller or so. you don't want to give the metal any room to fold, you want it to stretch.
Yep, tried that also. The punch cut a hole through the bottom. Maybe the edges were too sharp...Not through progressively smaller holes
Maybe you need to anneal the copper before forming. The rolling process at the factory may have work hardened it some. As for a source of lacquer in small amounts, check the wife's nail polish
Thanks both. I will try again.
I've read through this entire thread and found it very interesting and informative. Couple months ago I started to shop for my first cap and ball revolver, an 1858 Remington replica. I recently found one, a Uberti replica, in stock at Midway. About the same time I started to shop for this gun I learned about the percussion cap shortage and ordered the .22LR cap maker. That was several weeks ago and still haven't received it. If I ever receive it I will certainly try some of the advice given in this thread about doubling up on the can material, etc.
I heard long ago about a thing like a paper hole punch that punched cap cups out of soda cans. you used another punch (in the kit) to punch the snappy bits out of toy roll caps, and inserted them into the cups. I have never seen one, but seems like a thing that should exist for the DIY croud.Maybe you need to anneal the copper before forming. The rolling process at the factory may have work hardened it some. As for a source of lacquer in small amounts, check the wife's nail polish
I've read through this entire thread and found it very interesting and informative. Couple months ago I started to shop for my first cap and ball revolver, an 1858 Remington replica. I recently found one, a Uberti replica, in stock at Midway. About the same time I started to shop for this gun I learned about the percussion cap shortage and ordered the .22LR cap maker. That was several weeks ago and still haven't received it. If I ever receive it I will certainly try some of the advice given in this thread about doubling up on the can material, etc.
Meanwhile, your post back in March picturing plastic tubing around what appears to be a cap or possibly a primer mounted over a percussion nipple leads me to some questions about which you and other members may have knowledge. Couple weeks ago I saw a youtube.com video about using vinyl tubing to mount a small pistol primer over a percussion nipple. I have tried it and it works great with one big exception. Once the primer is fired after the hammer strike I can't **** my revolver for another shot. It turns out, after much troubleshooting, the hammer needs to fall and rest closer to the frame before the hammer/trigger mechanism can be cocked again. The pistol primer stands off the nipple about 1/16" to perhaps 3/32" too far and prevents my hammer from falling far enough for the hammer mechanics to work. At first I thought the primer was jamming against the frame behind the cylinder(breech face?) and preventing cylinder rotation. In fact the cylinder rotates freely with the primers mounted on the nipples.
So, now I am wondering if I could file down the nipples 1/16" to 3/32" inch and thereby allow the primer to be mounted closer to the chamber and allow the hammer to fall as far as it needs to in order to be cocked again. Of course, like you, I don't want to blow myself up or ruin my gun. Opinions please . Thanks.
I've read through this entire thread and found it very interesting and informative. Couple months ago I started to shop for my first cap and ball revolver, an 1858 Remington replica. I recently found one, a Uberti replica, in stock at Midway. About the same time I started to shop for this gun I learned about the percussion cap shortage and ordered the .22LR cap maker. That was several weeks ago and still haven't received it. If I ever receive it I will certainly try some of the advice given in this thread about doubling up on the can material, etc.
Meanwhile, your post back in March picturing plastic tubing around what appears to be a cap or possibly a primer mounted over a percussion nipple leads me to some questions about which you and other members may have knowledge. Couple weeks ago I saw a youtube.com video about using vinyl tubing to mount a small pistol primer over a percussion nipple. I have tried it and it works great with one big exception. Once the primer is fired after the hammer strike I can't **** my revolver for another shot. It turns out, after much troubleshooting, the hammer needs to fall and rest closer to the frame before the hammer/trigger mechanism can be cocked again. The pistol primer stands off the nipple about 1/16" to perhaps 3/32" too far and prevents my hammer from falling far enough for the hammer mechanics to work. At first I thought the primer was jamming against the frame behind the cylinder(breech face?) and preventing cylinder rotation. In fact the cylinder rotates freely with the primers mounted on the nipples.
So, now I am wondering if I could file down the nipples 1/16" to 3/32" inch and thereby allow the primer to be mounted closer to the chamber and allow the hammer to fall as far as it needs to in order to be cocked again. Of course, like you, I don't want to blow myself up or ruin my gun. Opinions please . Thanks.
