Matchlock barrels

[Kentuckyjed]

Matchlocks are becoming more interesting to me and I am thinking about a build. I have an old, tapered, round .58 smoothbore that I am restoring and was thinking about using it. It is 33 inches long. Would this work for a matchlock styled gun or should I just find a full octagon in 50 or larger caliber.
Thanks for any advice in advance.
BZ

 

[Kentuckyjed]

I am going to bump, thinking it might have been skipped over. I know there got to be an answer out there.

 

[wiscoaster]

I was watching a video on matchlocks by 11bangbang just last night (because I know nothing about them) and I was thinking, "man, those guns are HUGE!!" So sorry, no advice offered, no answer offered, just an observation that it seems after watching that and a couple other videos that a .58 cal 33 in. barrel might be a little "small" for that type of gun?

 

[wiscoaster]

The gun I saw in the videos was (I think) similar to the "Arquebus" offered by Military Heritage, and it's .75 cal and has a 42 in. barrel.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

All matchlock muskets, less the Portuguese Goa or Tanegashima snap locks were large bore, easily over 60, with most > 70-caliber.

Even later days, say late 1600s, anything less than a 70-caliber musket was referred to as a ‘basstard bore’, or even in the case of a 62-cal club butt I had, it was a ‘boys musket’.

There was however, a class of arms - lighter in size and caliber - used by the Calvary (which essentially was a carbine) called a ‘harquebus’. According to John Cruso in his cavalry manual of 1632, the harquebusier was 'first invented in France'. This type of cavalryman was characterised by the use of a form of carbine, the earliest type of carbine used was called a "harquebus" (a word derived from the heavier infantry weapon, the arquebus). In the late 16th century and into the first decades of the following century the harquebusier was envisioned, like the similar and earlier petronel, as a support for more heavily-armoured cavalrymen such as the demi-lancer, or pistol-armed cavalry - the cuirassier and reiter.

Early barrels would be octagonal. TobJohn has posted 1,000s of links in the Pre-Flintlock forums for you to peruse.

But … if not trying to go ‘real’, you can at least mimic the overall shape, like those of the early carbine/arquebuses.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

BZ,
Yep.
I missed this when first posted.
I would suggest you look at some links posted in this section and read a good bit about matchlocks, before deciding.
Saying matchlock is a bit like saying "car'.
They came over their times-pan, from short and small, to heavy and short, to long and huge and everywhere in between!

Here is a link to an early one. If you search the site in this link, you will be up to your eyeballs in matchlocks of all sorts!

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7542&highlight=tinderlock

Good luck and keep us posted!
Flint,
Your post appeared whilst I was replying!
I would just say though that some of the early harquebuse' had bores of about 14mm, or about .55 calibre.

This was very common on guns from the first half of the 16th century.

The short guns were at this early date not cavalry weapons, but those of the Landsknechts, who fought on foot.
The "short" was just a fashion, and appeared in many things, from candle sticks to chimney pots!

Best,
Richard.

 

[Kentuckyjed]

Thank y'all for some insight on matchlocks there is quite a bit of information and advice on this forum and all is useful. I think what I would like to build would probably be a ‘basstard bore’ and I like the fishtail butt stock (if that's what you call it) still perusing and learning, might have to hit Flint up for a larger bore barrel if available but still thinking on the .58 smooth that I have. I have a few walnut blanks calling out and winter is upon me so my day job slows down some and I can do some side work at work. As soon as I get the smoothie reamed and honed with no issues I will know which caliber I will have to use.
Thanks again.
BZ

 

[TobJohn]

Thank y'all for some insight on matchlocks there is quite a bit of information and advice on this forum and all is useful. I think what I would like to build would probably be a ‘basstard bore’ and I like the fishtail butt stock (if that's what you call it) still perusing and learning, might have to hit Flint up for a larger bore barrel if available but still thinking on the .58 smooth that I have. I have a few walnut blanks calling out and winter is upon me so my day job slows down some and I can do some side work at work. As soon as I get the smoothie reamed and honed with no issues I will know which caliber I will have to use.
Thanks again.
BZ

For a smaller bore with a fishtail, search for a “caliver”. They often share the same stylings as contemporary muskets, but with a smaller caliber, though the barrels are still around 40 inches, give of take

 

[Kentuckyjed]

For a smaller bore with a fishtail, search for a “caliver”. They often share the same stylings as contemporary muskets, but with a smaller caliber, though the barrels are still around 40 inches, give of take

Will do , thanks.

 

[TobJohn]

Will do , thanks.

Hermann Historica

Here is a great example with all round photos.

 

[Kentuckyjed]

Hermann Historica

Here is a great example with all round photos.

I've been digging around on the forum collecting pics and websites listed. Thanks

 

[Bucks Co]

I shoot a 44cal Dutch Style Marchlock made by Maurice Taylor - it's a snapping lock. It's a real buzz to shoot - I recommend looking at 'Civilian' Styles rather than the military because it allows a smaller bore. Smoothbores need to be driven quickly to get real accuracy and doing that in .70cal can be a bit punishing.
My load for the 44 is 90 - 120gr of FFFg a substantial wad column and a patched 430 ball. Be surprized by the ignition they're super fast.

 

[Brian Anderson]

Go ahead and use the round barrel --- There is a broad enough range of precedents that one needn't quibble

 

[tom in nc]

I took am planning to build a matchlock gun. Just now learning all I can about them, after being "into" flintlock and percussion guns for 50+ years, as well as cap-n-ball revolvers. My first will be more of a tribute rather than a replica of a particular gun. It will probably be .45 caliber with an octagonal barrel. It will be a "lever controlled", not a snapping type.
I'm going to build the lock & action then build the stock & barrel for it.
I hope to do the best I can. I've seen some pretty crude looking homemade ones, not on here, and hope to do better. This forum is an excellent source of knowledge. I love it.

 

[Jay Templin]

I am going to bump, thinking it might have been skipped over. I know there got to be an answer out there.

It will work just fine! If you don’t want to mess around with attaching the priming pan to the side of the barrel, you can make a lock with the pan attached to it like a flintlock. Less common, to be sure.
Jay

 

[Pukka Bundook]

JKU,

Nice to see one of Michael's threads in full.

I took it for a second to be your post/thread, LOL!

 

[Millford_P]

Here’s an example of one from the East, and possibly from a later period (17th-early 18th centuries). I’ve always liked the fluted appearance of these barrels.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

These are very nice barrels, Miullford.
This one pictured has lost its forward portion.

All the best,
Richard.

 

[rickystl]

Hi Millford

Your barrel is from Oman. And as Pukka mentioned, it's been shortened. Probably by about 15". It's likely from the mid-1800's or earlier. The locals used these barrels that late believe it or not.
With the barrel being shortened, it might make for a cool early matchlock build. LOL If you have a chance, can you post a pic of the breech plug area ? Thanks.

Rick

 

[Rudyard]

Matchlocks are becoming more interesting to me and I am thinking about a build. I have an old, tapered, round .58 smoothbore that I am restoring and was thinking about using it. It is 33 inches long. Would this work for a matchlock styled gun or should I just find a full octagon in 50 or larger caliber.
Thanks for any advice in advance.
BZ

I just noticed your post most any barrel will work depends on what design Time period & country your after . Outside of rough military outlines like' barrel fower foot with a bore of 10 standing 12 rowling' ' Or" Of indiferrent bore under Arquebuss' techical stuff like that &' Whole plated at ye butt with Iron ' the brl you have would suit a 'caliver ' or a' birding peece' most any gun that will' go off' might lend its self to your barrel'& welcome to the Brother hood of the burning string.
Regards Rudyard