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Moose Milk Recipe...

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Glenfilthie

45 Cal.
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Hey fellers, I got a recipe for moose milk off this forum or another and it seemed to work well enough, but I just ran out of my last batch and forgot how I made it.

I think mine had dish soap, hydrogen peroxide, water soluble cutting oil and maybe 10 or 11 other secret herbs and spices that I forgot about!

How are you fellas making it these days?
 
I use Murphy's soap oil, olive oil, alcohol, witch hazel, and water

if you do a search here it should show for the recipe.
 
That's "the other" forum. I don't like the idea of putting Hydrogen Peroxide in my rifles or shotguns so I came up with a metal-friendly version with no oxidizers.

Here's the link:

Stumpy's Moose Juice

Besides - mix H.Peroxide with most anything and you get water with some extra bubbles of oxygen.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Stumpy, just used up the last of my Moose Juice today on some pillow ticking. And it seems to work really good for me.

But i'm looking for a good cold weather lube for hunting season. I've seen your Moose Snot formula, could anybody who hunts in cold weather post their formula on this thread? Please.

Went to the fabric store tonight and got some remnants for 80% off in denim and canvas witch might be thicker than pillow ticking. Seems things with Bees Wax is the ticket for cold weather lube. If somebody out there has a really good cold weather lube please post it on this thread.

Thanks Apache
 
Apache: Go up to the top of the index to this forum, and lood where the box says, " Member Resources". Under Articles, charts, and links, you should find the recipe for Stumpy's formulas. For really cold weather hunting, consider using olive oil, or some thin vegetable oil with less wax, or change the proportions to thin the snot in below freezing temps.

You might also consider looking for some Mobile One, Jet Engine Oil- a synthetic oil made for use in airplanes, that have to face a wider range of temperatures, from very hot, to extreme cold at altitude, and still keep parts lubricated and moving. You may have to call you nearest airport to find a source for the stuff. A quart will do you for many years.
 
What are you doing stirring around this early on the computer on such a rainy, nasty, windy day, Smoke?

We both oughta be out hunting!!!!

On second though, nah.

Think I'll pour another cup of coffee and leave this particular snotty day to the duck hunters.

Sure would be a dandy day for testing your ability to keep your gun dry and firing, meanwhile preventing rust wouldn't it?

No, wait.....

Been there. Done that. Got the T-shirt.

Back to that cup of coffee. Stop on by if you want some.
 
Thanks Stumpy.
I gotta ask a really, really stupid question here fellas.

Have I been doing it wrong all these years? I am pretty much a self-taught front stuffer. What I have been doing is using the moose milk to mop the bore to keep fouling down, and Bore Butter as a lube on the patch. It may sound stupid but I'll be darned if it doesn't work...and work well. My groups are on par with those of the various pork eaters around here.

Also, Stumpy...can you recommend a substitute for Murphy's? I don't know if I can get it up here in Canada.
 
:wink: Moose Milk---Water, water soluble oil, Murphy's Oil soap. Mostly water (60%) in a one litre bottle, Murphys' (30%), Water Soluble Oil (10%). These are approximations you can fool with--the water soluble machinists oil gives the fluid a somewhat milky appearance which yellows with age----the term "MOOSE MILK." :v
 
Have I been doing it wrong all these years? I am pretty much a self-taught front stuffer. What I have been doing is using the moose milk to mop the bore to keep fouling down, and Bore Butter as a lube on the patch. It may sound stupid but I'll be darned if it doesn't work...and work well. My groups are on par with those of the various pork eaters around here.

No right way. No wrong way. The target and timer or freezer will be the only judge. :hatsoff: I prefer not to have to clean between shots and really like being able to stretch to every tenth - and then wipe with a spit patch. If you load freshly damp patches with the Moose Snot you shouldn't have to wipe between shots. I dip & dry mine and carry the prelubed strips to refill my ball-blocks (or cut at the muzzle) and I can go five shots before needing a spit wipe.

The Moose Snot, again, should go at least a ten shot string before you need to wipe.

I had good shooting results with Bore Butter but it is a mess. At least I was always a mess - if I hung a ball block around my neck my shirt was always picking up greasy yellow stains. I have enough trouble from eating that I don't need more from shooting.

Also, Stumpy...can you recommend a substitute for Murphy's? I don't know if I can get it up here in Canada.

Any vegetable based detergent soap should work. Stop in at a riding stable or tack shop and ask for liquid saddle soap. I did some experimenting with Pine-Sol and it seemed to work as well.

But i'm looking for a good cold weather lube for hunting season. I've seen your Moose Snot formula, could anybody who hunts in cold weather post their formula on this thread? Please.

I've used pre-lubed patches with the Moose Snot down to 15º below zero Fahrenheit and actually killed a deer (and reloaded just in case before approaching). If there's a lube that works better I don't want to test it. I sat on a stump for five hours and was starting to halucinate of rum drinks, sandy palm beaches and young girls with . . . Mmmmmmmm.

Oh! Anyway . . .


My hands were so cold the inside of the deer felt like it was burning them . . . and then it felt pretty good.
 
Glenfilthie said:
Also, Stumpy...can you recommend a substitute for Murphy's? I don't know if I can get it up here in Canada.

Yeah, you can get it - it's fairly common. Try your local Co-op, Safeway, Canadian Tire, hardware store, or (spit!) WalMart.

Joel
 
Stumpy, when your prelubing these patches do you have a method you use? I tried lubing some patches with bore butter and did'nt seem to get very consistent results. Seems like I had a little to much butter on them, so I stacked them and about every third lubed patch I put a dry patch then bagged them and sat them in the sun. But there must be a better way or at least a more accurate way to do this.
 
Stack the patches, lubed on one side only with a clean patch on the bottom, and zap them in your micro wave, in 5 second bursts. ( Don't use longer bursts because the smell of the burning lube will drive you out of the house! You are not trying to cook the patches, just lube them!)That will melt the Bore Butter, and distribute it evenly through the patches.

That produces the same result as setting the patches out on a metal surface in the bright sunlight, only faster. I also think the lube migrates through the cloth better, and more evenly with the waves vibrating the cloth and the lube. If you leave the patches in the sun for a whole day, they probably warm up enough to distribute the lube evenly after several hours.

I have also put lubed patches next to a camp fire in a tin box, and let the hot stones heat the box up enough to help melt and distribute the lube. It works, particularly if you rotate the tin every half hour or so. If you have a grill over a BBQ fire or campfire that is down to just coals, you can heat that tin up pretty fast, and then I just flip the tin over to get even distribution of the lube after about 10-15 minutes. Its usually done in less than 1/2 hour. If you can smell the lube or burning cloth, remove the tin from the heat.You got it too hot!
 
Well fellers, I have gathered all the ingredients except Murphy's, and will try Pine Sol instead. Thanks for all the tips, wish me luck and I will let you know how I make out... :wink:
 
apache 130 said:
Stumpy, when your prelubing these patches do you have a method you use? I tried lubing some patches with bore butter and did'nt seem to get very consistent results. Seems like I had a little to much butter on them, so I stacked them and about every third lubed patch I put a dry patch then bagged them and sat them in the sun. But there must be a better way or at least a more accurate way to do this.

I only pre-lube in either three or six foot strips. I tear a length of pillow tick (faster than cutting) into 1-3/8" wide strips (9 stripes). I then lay out seven feet of wax paper on a workbench. Pouring my lube mix into a pie tin I work the strip back and forth in a "U" shape through the liquid (using the old 35mm film developing technique which also keeps all the ingredients mixed) until it is well saturated. Then I lay it FLAT on the waxed paper to dry. That is an important step. I tried hanging it but all the lube wicked down with gravity. After they dry overnight I repeat.

Another day of drying and I either roll up the strips to carry in a beeswaxed deerskin pouch or fold them up to fit into sandwich size baggies for lokg term storage. They keep for years in the Baggies.

The Moose Juice ingredients seperate out fast and I have found that using a two-liter soda bottle to mix and store it in works well. Shake it up well and pour into a pie tin and then funnel back in the unused portion.
 
Thats about what I'm doing with the juice.

Now I'd like to try the snot and am unsure how to apply it to patches, either strips or precut.

If I do not get consistent amounts of lube on the patches i'm thinking it will effect my poi.
 
lube one side of each patch, and stack the patches. Don't lube the last patch. now, put them in a micro wave and give them several 5 second bursts of micro waves. Open the door and check them, after each burst, so they don't burn, and you can both see and feel the lube penetrating all the fabric.

Or you can put the patches on a plate, or cookie sheet over a warm stove, or in the hot sun and let the lube penetrate the patching that way. I have lubed patches all these ways, and more- but the micro wave is the fastest for consistency in lube on the patches. If you insist, you can put the patches on wax paper and use a butter knife to spread the lube on one side of each patch. I amnot that neat, and just use my finger to rub the patch material into my lube bottle, and then slap another patch on top of that lubed patch, and repeat the process. If I were lubing a strip of fabric, I might use the wax paper and butter knife , or spatula, or putty knife, approach. Then roll the strip up tightly, tie it, or rubber band it, and stick it in the microwave! I have also just rolled up the fabric, put it in a sealed contained and let time and ordinary body heat, or house heat spread the lube through the fabric.

As long as you wash the fabric being used for patches, or wash the Pre-cut patches, they should take lube evenly and easily. Its when you put lube on patches that are not washed, and still have sizing in them that the migration of the lube through the fabric can be " iffy".
 
Here's the Moose Milk recipe I have had for a number of years. Can't remember where I got it, but at least I did save it. I have dipped strips of patch material in it and hung them outside to dry. It seems to work OK, but I still prefer to use nature's patch lube (spit). Substitute alcohol for the water if you are in a freezing environment, or do the "dry" lube method as I have done.

Just FYI - one liter of this stuff will last you a lifetime . . .
____________________________________________
Napa water soluble cutting oil (if your local napa store doesn't have it in stock the part number is 765-1526 for 1 pint)
Murphy's oil soap
1 liter water bottle
water
rubbing alcohol (optional)

Fill water bottle half full with WARM water. Add 2 oz. each of the water soluble oil and the murphy's oil soap. Shake well and watch it turn white. This means it is mixed. Once mixed it won't unmix. Fill bottle up with water.
 
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