More India made smoothies!?!?!

[Texas Gil]

Thanks Gus, that's exactly what I needed to see, the cause and the remedy. I'll take this on and get it done. Really appreciate your expertise. I'll let you know how it turns out. Gil

 

[Artificer]

Thanks Gus, that's exactly what I needed to see, the cause and the remedy. I'll take this on and get it done. Really appreciate your expertise. I'll let you know how it turns out. Gil

You are most welcome.
Gus

 

[FlinterNick]

To get rid of the shine, I would wipe it down with a damp magic eraser, keep in mind that the finish on the stock is likely a varnish and not an oil, as teak and rosewood does not absorb linseed or tung oil.

A tru-oil thinned with spirts or turpentine applied with sponge might do the trick to get a nice matte finish, i would apply in one direction, not back and forth.

Its certainly an indian made arm, their locks all of some common characteristics, I would not bleach the steel, liver of sulfur is available by Jax Inc and will darken the steel without harming, the other method you can use is by heating the parts very low with a butane torch and dunking them in mineral oil or linseed, this gives off a black oxide finish (not the frizzen or springs).

 

[Texas Gil]

To get rid of the shine, I would wipe it down with a damp magic eraser, keep in mind that the finish on the stock is likely a varnish and not an oil, as teak and rosewood does not absorb linseed or tung oil.

A tru-oil thinned with spirts or turpentine applied with sponge might do the trick to get a nice matte finish, i would apply in one direction, not back and forth.

Its certainly an indian made arm, their locks all of some common characteristics, I would not bleach the steel, liver of sulfur is available by Jax Inc and will darken the steel without harming, the other method you can use is by heating the parts very low with a butane torch and dunking them in mineral oil or linseed, this gives off a black oxide finish (not the frizzen or springs).

Thanks. This is 15 year old gun that shoots 3.5 “ groups at 50 yds. I love it BUT I’ve tried 4 times to get the teak to stain with no luck. I have a new recipe from Gus on forum that looks promising. If I can only do my part? But my refinishing skills are not good. The barrel, lock are browned. Sure hope I can follow instructions and finally get a descent brown stock color.

 

[springfield art]

Yep!

Did some horse trading yesterday and we both walked away happy.

I traded a yugo SKS and some ammo for these two.

A CVA .50 Hawkin and this tulle fusil de chasse.

The fusil is new, came with fints and balls and the Hawkin (1980's) is used.

He bought the Fusil from a Texas gun shop when he thought he might try reenacting but never did.

I'm going to treat it as a kit gun and try my hand at giving it a make over. The trigger and lock seems to work pretty decent, breaks nice and throws plenty of sparks.

I have a few questions

Who do you think imported it?

What is the best way to kill some of that shine and age the metal a bit?

Anyone have a good recipe for wood stain that will help darken it up and give that rich chocolate color and help it appear to have some age? After sanding the old stuff off of course.

Thanks

Cool to do trades like that~ good luck! If the stock has modern spray finish, use the orange stripper everyone here recommends.

 

[springfield art]

I once wanted to make a Confederate pistol that looked like it had been in a cornfield for a year or so.
I knew exactly what to use to do that. Bleach.

Here's the results



There are dozens of things besides bleach that can be used to brown, blue or age a barrel that are easier to control.
I would recommend any of them before I would suggest using bleach.

Never used bleach; what would be the neutralizer for it? Not planning to do anything, just wondering if there's something that will stop it cold. This really does look like a 'cornfield find'! Hope the bore and chambers were plugged during treatment.

 

[springfield art]

Some years back Loyalist had a version of the very early land pattern musket with steel furniture, butt plate, trigger guard, ram rod pipes. It was representative of the musket pattern referred to as Queen Anne. The original muskets were produced up to about 1725. The locks were unbridled. Once the official pattern for the Long Land Muskets was settled on about 1728, the trigger guard, butt plate and pipes were brass. Locks on those muskets of the 1730 pattern will have locks with earlier dates. My Loyalist Arms 1730 long land pattern has an unbridled Dublin Castle lock dated 1728, brass furniture. I have not seen that model offered by Loyalist Arms for quite some time.

Loyalist changes models and designation quite often.

Is there a U-tube video tour of any of the India factories? Would love to see an interview with their designers, etc.

 

[Texas Gil]

I think I saw a clip someone posted recently. It looked like a shop of very old equipment making barrels. Not a full production gun maker.
Only way to ID is to visit all the importer pics for closest match.

 

[Birddog1911]

This thread is relevant to my interests.

 

[Master Blaster]

This my Bombay Bess after light defarb. I stripped, bleached and recolored the stock to attain a medium brown color, rather than the OEM darker brown color with "piano" finish. I used dye(s) which can usually be applied to achieve most any color you may prefer.

 

[Texas Gil]

Good job. That’s what I am trying to get. How does it shoot at 50 yards?

 

[Birddog1911]

This my Bombay Bess after light defarb. I stripped, bleached and recolored the stock to attain a medium brown color, rather than the OEM darker brown color with "piano" finish. I used dye(s) which can usually be applied to achieve most any color you may prefer.

Looks really nice. What sort of dye did you use?

 

[Master Blaster]

I haven't fired it yet. I have all the supplies but waiting on retinologist's evaluation.

I recolored the wood with Fiebling's leather dye, mainly medium brown. I believe the stock is teakwood but the spirit dye worked just fine for me. YMMV. Best wishes. Dave

 

[Texas Gil]

Is your bore nice and smooth inside? If so it should shoot very well. If not then have it reamed out to to constant bore diameter. Not expensive and will shoot with more expensive colerain barrels. Mine shoots 3.5” groups at 50 yds.
Good luck

 

[Master Blaster]

Is your bore nice and smooth inside? If so it should shoot very well. If not then have it reamed out to to constant bore diameter. Not expensive and will shoot with more expensive colerain barrels. Mine shoots 3.5” groups at 50 yds.
Good luck

I would be very happy with 3.5" @ 50 yards. I hope to hit a man-sized target at 100 but have to wait a bit to try.

 

[Surfinator58]

Is there a U-tube video tour of any of the India factories? Would love to see an interview with their designers, etc.

Yes there is one titled fabulous India weapons reproduction! It is a French woman touring India with subtitles and about halfway through they go into the same Factory that produced mine from military heritage the license numbers and government stamp is above the door as the camera goes inside interesting and primitive but they get the job done

 

[Birddog1911]

Hmm, seems I've gor first shot at a Fusil coming to a certain shop next week...

 

[Texas Gil]

Good news. If you’re looking at a India Fusil they can be a lot of fun and pleasure without the huge price tag. Lots to work with and you will enjoy their guns. You can enjoy them for what they are and you can certainly improve their performance as you require. Had mine over 15 years and it’s a better gun today than when I bought it. The Journey has been rewarding. It’s my favorite! Have fun and learn all about the flintlock era. Good luck on your purchase!

 

[Birddog1911]

It'll go nicely with my Indian Dragoon pistol. That thing has run like a top, and maybe only flashed in the pan once.

 

[Texas Gil]

Good to hear. Hope the new gun works out well. I’m sure it will. That Fusil loaded up with 80 to 100 gr of powder is awesome. Reach out to the forum for load development. Good advice to move along to more accurate smoothbore shooting. The fun is just starting. I’m excited for you pard! Texas Gil