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More Misfire Issues - Investarms 54 Caliber

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Great discussion guys and Thank You So Much!! I was unaware of the Ante Chamber in the bottom of these barrels and got a brush to get down in there.
Also…the cleaning screw topic…in 20 years of owning this gun, I’ve never taken it out or messed with it until now. I discovered that with it fully seated, it does protrude into the nipple threads and upon closer inspection is keeping the nipple from full seating (see picture).
I also plan to replace the nipple with one where the hole is centered and hopefully this takes care of all these misfires.
Thank You again fellas - I really appreciate all your help and input.
 

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The "clean out" screw is an artifact left over from the manufacturing of the drum and some breech plugs from the drilling of flash channel from the nipple set to the powder chamber. The cheap solution is to install a threaded fastener as a plug. Now that the threaded fastener is ther and it has a slot the item needed a name and for lack of a better name it was called a "clean out" screw. Yes, it can be removed and is effective for cleaning out the barrel and breech or for adding powder to unload a dry ball. All too often the screw is soft and the slot gets deformed. T/C had to redesign their breech as their "clean out" screw slots got destroyed when removed to flush the barrel of the hooked breech rifles. (i destroyed the slot in my T/C Hawken by removing it as a clean out feature.) The last of the T/C breeches don't have a clean out screw and they drill the flash channel from the opposite side from the nipple seat and truly plug the drilled hole. Not all original breeches either the drum or the "patent" breech have a threaded screw that could be construed as a "clean out" feature. As Alex has observed, that screw can be installed in ways that can obstruct the installation of the nipple, sometimes blocking the flash hole or locking the nipple in the nipple seat.

Treat it as a "clean out" screw and be sure to always use a never seizing lubricant on the threads or you will have a plug. Take care to always use a screw driver that perfectly fits the slot or the slot will be destroyed and you will have a plug. Replace it with a very short hardened cap screw be sure to use never seizing lubricant on the threads.

Or, if it is not interfering with the nipple, leave it alone and never remove it. Effective cleaning can be done when the nipple is removed. Oh, and use never seizing lubricant on the threads of the nipple.

I'm in the never remove the "clean out" screw camp. Same advice for the touch hole liner for a flintlock.
The clean out screw or whatever we wish to call it should be seated tight. In most guns the nipple goes past the tapping in the drum. In order for the clean out screw to be properly tightened it needs to be no longer than it's tapped hole lest it is bumping into the nipple. In that case the clean out screw needs to be filed down. I've done as you suggested and replaced mine with a socket head cap screw properly trimmed. Personal choice as to what to do for cleaning.
 
Recently a hog hunter brought me a nice TC .54 caliber TC Hawken that was misfiring.

i replaced the beat up nipple with a new TC nipple. Capped the new nipple and ran a rod with jag and patch into the bore. The cap popped but there was no burn mark on the patch. Removed the nipple and cleaned the flame channel using a bristled pipe cleaner. Re-installed the nipple.. Again i ran the rod with jag and patch into the bore. and popped another cap. This time there was a good burn mark on the patch.

Loaded the rifle with 100 grains of Shooters World BP substitute and a patched round ball and fired. Ball hit the three inch bullseye at 78 yards.

A previous poster mentioned something that will eliminate some misfires. Leaning the rifle lock side down and giving the stock a couple good slaps with the hand after loading the powder allows powder o enter he flame channel.
 

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