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Davy, the Kendall locks and many others are in:

Underhammer Guns

and

The Pictorial History of the Under-hammer Gun

By:

Herschel C. Logan
 
Guess its best if I just lend them one of mine, they got to cost to much. :shake: Fred :hatsoff:
 
fw said:
Guess its best if I just lend them one of mine, they got to cost to much. :shake: Fred :hatsoff:


Amen brother! :hmm: At $70 a copy ... wow~! :cursing: You better let us borry two of them! :thumbsup:

Davy
 
not much to it.
420597.jpg
 
John: I'm with Davy. Thanks for the image. If Iam seeing it right, the long tang is actually a great big breech plug, and the two springs have rollers on the ends. Elegantly simple indeed, and with the stock architecture, it must have been a lovely offhand gun.
 
I'm in the process of making one for myself but with all the other work it is taking a while. It will have a takedown like the early model Remington #4, a tapered screw that has half cut away so the barrel/breachplug is released with a half turn. I have the frame cut out and the hammer almost done but need to get the trigger done. The trigger will be a little different than the one pictured, it will have 2 ears going up for the pivot pin insted of 1. I was going to see if I could put a dogs face on the hammer but I'm not that good of an artist so may have Dale Woody look at it to see what he can do.
 
John do you mean by two ears going up that you are going to hang your trigger so it goes on the outside of the hammer spring instead of pivoting in a slot in the spring? Oh and where or what book are you getting these great Kendall pics from
 
MRW said:
John do you mean by two ears going up that you are going to hang your trigger so it goes on the outside of the hammer spring instead of pivoting in a slot in the spring? Oh and where or what book are you getting these great Kendall pics from


Underhammer Guns

and

The Pictorial History of the Under-hammer Gun

By:

Herschel C. Logan
 
It's a great book to have if you like Underhammers and want to read about the history. :thumbsup:
 
John-
I know I'm a bit structure/function challenged on photographs, so I need a walk-through on the operation of the Kendall lock. It looks like the big hole in the tang is the one that locks the barrel to the stock and the small one is the pivot for the hammer; correct? Is the trigger extention also the sear that engages the (two?) notches on the hammer? Is the trigger hung from and pinned to that verical plate coming down through the the longer spring? Do the rollers actually roll on pivots or are they merely rounded, fixed, anti-friction devices? Does the trigger spring keep the sear from catching on the half-cock notch after release from full cock?

Thanks! (At least ignorance can be corrected!)

Clay
San Jose CA
 
I have a copy of the Pictorial history of the UH gun and mine sure doesn't have any pics of Kenalls like the one posted in it ,is there another version
 
I think MRW is wondering where the photo came from. It's not in my copy either. However as BS wrote on Page 26 there is a diagram.
 
Lots of questions, I'll see if I can answer. The frame and breach plug are one part. Tha hammer pivot pin is plane to see in the picture. The hole just above it is a screw hole for holding the stock. A smaller hole and pin can be seen on the tang about 10 oclock from the screw hole. This is the trigger pivot hole and the trigger has an arm the goes up to it. On mine I will have 2 arms or ears so the main spring will go between them. There is no half cock on this picture. I have not seen a close up but I assume the springs have rollers and pins, mine will. This action is as simple as they get other than having rollers on the springs there are only 2 moving parts.
 
Thanks, John-
That's very helpful. I didn't realize the flat plate on the trigger bar/sear was fixed to the bar and pivoted above on the tang pin.

Another question. When you enlarge and sharpen the lock photo, the end of the trigger bar/sear looks like it is raised and rounded-off, suggesting that the end of the bar- the sear?- is notched so that the hammer is flush with it. Is that correct- or what the heck am I seeing? It looks like there is no longer pressure on the hammer ledge pushing it down towards the nipple.

Thanks again,
Clay

KendallTriggerbarcopy.jpg
 
Thanks for making it larger. Looks like there is a hump on the hammer where the spring is. Also looks like there is something different than a roller on the end of the springs. Sometimes it hard to make out from a picture. You would want spring pressure on the hammer while it is in contact with the nipple. The proper setup would be to have the spring contact move closser to the hammer pivot point as the hammer is being cocked. This would make for less pressure on the sear when it is at the cock possition allowing for a lighter trigger pull. Sort of like the old flintlock tumbler/spring setup. A friend of mine made a flintlock that had a very hard pull to the half cock and then to the full cock it was very light, someday I will figure out how he did it.
 
It was a fast easy to make set up, strong upper spring keeps lots of down force on hammer all the time on the 2 Ive held.But if you ck later underhammers they have the outside spring for a reason, works better and less parts ask Billinghurst :rotf: Fred :thumbsup:
 
fw said:
It was a fast easy to make set up, strong upper spring keeps lots of down force on hammer all the time on the 2 Ive held.But if you ck later underhammers they have the outside spring for a reason, works better and less parts ask Billinghurst :rotf: Fred :thumbsup:

So then you think the Billinghurst external trigger spring is a better design? Any issues with accuracy in regard to spring type? :hmm:

I have to admit though I do like the more slimline appearance of the internal spring design. :grin:

Davy
 
John if you look in Logans UH book fig. 19 the sketch of the Kendall shows that the back of the hammer has what appears to be a stirrup fitted into the back of the hammer similiar to those if it had a lift spring instead of a pressure spring but it is hard to see in the pic if there is a pin holding that rasied part up or if it is just a hump
 

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