My CVA Hawken Trigger Woes!

[Icemanxxxv]

So I have had this gun for about 30 years. It used to have such a great dual set trigger Back story here. I sourced a new stock and .54 barrel Ever since the rebuild I just cant get the trigger right. I keep coming back to it from time to time with the same results no progress made. The trigger is just mushy with no wall and so light its un-usable for hunting. Its just plain mushy with no wall or break. The trigger is drop safe when set but releases at about 4 ounces with break with no wall just mush. The lock seems to be fine as it takes quite a bit of pressure to get it to fire. With the trigger in or out of the gun remains the same no matter how it is adjusted. I've gone as far as adjusting it till it won't set and operate to the other extreme to where it will set but won't release. There is just no sweet spot to get the travel out and a trigger over 4 ounces. Short of sourcing a new trigger I'm plumb out of ideas.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

What is the distance from the single trigger pivot point to the sear bar?

 

[Icemanxxxv]

What is the distance from the single trigger pivot point to the sear bar?

I maybe a bit slow on the uptake here, so bear with me. Are we talking about the release trigger to lock sear bar? I'm a bit confused by what you are asking. Are we talking about how far the release trigger is from the lock sear bar? Sorry I'm a bit confused. I was playing with the trigger the other night. It appears to me that once the trigger is set. The catch portion of the release trigger is just barely hanging on to the trigger bar. The best I could do was 14 oz. Average over 5 pulls. I did this 3 or 4 times with the same results within .2 of an ounce.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Both the set trigger, and the "pull" trigger have pivots. The pivot pin is what I'm speaking of and specifically the pivot pin of the "Trigger you pull to make it go BANG". (AKA the Pull trigger). How far from the locks sear bar is the pull trigger pivot point?

Since you stated you changed stocks I'm thinking this distance was changed when compared to the original placement in the factory stock.

Here's a quote from Jim Kibler on the subject of triggers:

"This is all very simple. Extend the trigger pivot distance as far as possible such that a desired pull can be achieved. This minimizes trigger travel to release the sear. A light pull and short trigger travel are desirable. With a proper lock, you can easily have. 2.5 pound pull with a short trigger travel with a 5/8” pivot distance. By shortening the distance to 5/16” you are effectively doubling the necessary travel to fire the lock. Not a good thing. This is elementary physics.

Why not just have a well set-up lock with a pivot distance of 5/8” or so and get the best of both worlds? Shortening the the pivot distance is a poor “fix” in my view.

It’s no wonder you see longer pivot distances on original work. Why these shorter distances became popular confuses me. Maybe to overcome lock problems…

As mentioned, I would be happy to help anyone with a heavier pull than they prefer to fix things properly."