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ryzman said:
i have a pretty substantial gap here... im thinking i have to drill out the factory holes and glue a dowel, then re drill another hole that lines up better.
gpr4.jpg


I just bought a brand new "finished" GPR and I have that very same gap. Sure wish you had put mind together.
 
it turns out that i only needed to sand off more of the stock to make the gap go away. i did not have to reposition anything. i got lucky i guess.
heres a pic of the escutcheon after sanding.
gpr10.jpg

this gap is really bothering me. I can not move the tang back to fill the void as everything lines up including the lock. i am going to have to fill this cavity with some sort of filler and it needs to be permanent and able to take a stain. im sort of unlucky with this gap as it is right on top of the rifle and will bother me if i do not take care of it.
gpr11.jpg
 
Weld a piece (or bead) on the tang and file to fit! You don't want it tight or the recoil will likely crack the stock! Leave a small gap at the end. Just an idea ! :idunno: The rest of it looks great!
 
so i broke out the dremmel and went to town on the breech side of the tang. got it sitting as far back as i can and it tightened up the gap on the back of the tang.
i have yet to assemble the rifle to check how the lock lines up but i did not remove that much material so it should be pretty close. im going to live with the slight gap as show in the picture. i dont really have much choice. actually the flash from the camera really shows the gap but in real life its almost invisible. my tang sight will be more of a focal point rather than the tang anyway. slight gap? meh ok as long as its the only one...
gpr12.jpg
 
That small gap behind the tang is a GOOD THING!

This location is supposed to have a small gap there so that under recoil the metal doesn't cause undue stress at that location.

More than one old gun that was made without this clearance ended up splitting the wrist of the stock after a few years of use.
 
Good job! You're doing great. That gap is just what the Dr. ordered to keep the stock from splitting. Nice work! :v
 
i did not know that there has to be a slight gap.
here is images of the stock almost done. going to sand it one more time and then get ready for stain. im going to go with an ebony stain.
gpr14.jpg

gpr13.jpg
 
You keep this up and I will have to go out and buy one to do.
Looking Good.
 
ya for sure it is lots of fun.
I went with a dark stain and i like it so far. I will be applying another coat or two to get the shade i want. so far so good...
gpr15.jpg
 
is there any technique other than bluing or browning that protects the metal and does not change the color? in other words do i have to blue or brown the metal parts? reason i ask is this looks really good.
gpr16.jpg
 
I used plumb brown becouse thats all the locale gunshops had,what a mess,I sould have waited till I could get some Homer Dangler browning,that is so easy to use.
Maybe if you keep it oiled you could leave it like it is?? You are doing a great job I admire your talent.
 
On my Hawken, I also really liked the bare, shined metal look. I used Renaissance wax on all of the metal parts. It's been over a year, and the finish looks as if I just did it.
 
ya im not sure if i should blue these parts or not. im going to think about it while i polish them. they have to be shiny no matter what process i decide on. here is the lock plate...
gpr17.jpg
 
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