My Pedersoli Frontier

[dikman]

I thought I'd start this thread rather than add it to someone else's (particularly the one about the type of wood on a Pedersoli Kentucky).

I picked up my (used) Frontier the other day, and naturally stripped it down to check the condition. I'm assuming it's a walnut stock, judging by the colour, but while I was waxing it today I had a closer look with a magnifier. It has a faint tiger-striping effect on the wood (the striping is darker) which intrigues me. I'm assuming that its been applied in the factory, rather than being natural, as the stripes are across the grain (the grain runs lengthwise). The stripes aren't uniform in appearance, i.e. they appear to be random in size and shape, and they are "soft-edged" and quite subtle. I have no idea how they would be applied in a mass-produced factory environment, but it certainly looks good!

Overall, I'm impressed with the fit and finish on the rifle and it appears to have been well looked after, although having said that when I finally finished making my range rod and jag and ran a patch down it came back with some black streaks on it! I ran a few clean patches down, followed by some patches soaked in Ed's Red and I left a liberal coating in the bore to soak overnight. (I had run a bore-scope down the barrel at the dealers and hadn't noticed any pitting or roughness, but obviously it didn't pick up the traces of fouling that were still there). The lock and trigger didn't have any signs of rusting, but nor did they have any lube on them!

The browning on the barrel is nice and uniform and quite smooth, but I don't think it looks quite as good as the browning on my percussion cap rifle (made by a local builder back in the '80s).

It came with a flint fitted, and firing it makes a nice shower of sparks, so I guess that's a good start. I'll try a small charge in the pan next and hopefully it will ignite.

Having only shot percussion cap guns before, this is going to be quite exciting :thumbsup: .

 

[Alden]

I'm already smiling, as you'll be, 'cause I know what happens next.

; )

 

[matt denison]

" It has a faint tiger-striping effect on the wood (the striping is darker) which intrigues me. I'm assuming that its been applied in the factory, rather than being natural, as the stripes are across the grain (the grain runs lengthwise). The stripes aren't uniform in appearance, i.e. they appear to be random in size and shape, and they are "soft-edged" and quite subtle. I have no idea how they would be applied in a mass-produced factory environment, but it certainly looks good!"

That is not fake or applied. It is called "curl".

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

Actually the Frontier comes in 4 pricelevels ... Walnut with or without patchbox - and maple with or without patchbox ...

 

[Critter Getter]

What did you use for wax and what effect did it have on the walnut stock? I have the Blue Ridge version of that rifle and love shooting it but would like to see if your wax job adds any good to the looks of a pretty plain walnut stock. Greg

 

[Critter Getter]

Hey Alden, what happens next??? I'm dying to find out. Btw..... That dang flintlock is so much fun that I just had to stop and go visit with Tip Curtis on my way down to Florida recently! Greg

 

[Bardo]

Wanut can have figure in it just like maple. That sounds like real figure in it. The dark spots will move depending how the light is hitting it.

Bardo

 

[Alden]

hotoSmile:

 

[dikman]

Yeah, I'll have to work on the photo thing, just been a bit too busy re-building my forge shed!!

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm aware of the term "curl", but I've only ever seen it used in regard to maple, I didn't think it could be applied to walnut (I've never seen this effect before in walnut). So, it would appear then that it's not a "fake" effect that's been applied, but is due to the character of the piece of wood. There's still no doubt though that it's had a dark stain applied to a light piece of wood. Whatever they did, it looks nice.

The wax I used is a leather/furniture one that's made here in Oz (it came highly recommended by an automotive restorer). Like most of these waxes it's primarily beeswax with other stuff added to soften it (all natural ingredients and it's very soft). Probably not that much different to many others on the market. I mainly wanted to clean the stock up a bit, but didn't want to use anything too strong so figured I'd rub a bit of this on. I'm off to the range tomorrow, so I'll see if it's made any difference leaving it on for a couple of days.

 

[Rusty_Nail]

Dikmon,

With walnut, it is not typically called curl. It is called burl.

This was a TC Renegade I got, that I found out from Chuck Dixon is burled walnut. And he said burled walnut is sometimes caused by an injury at the stump, or a parasite affecting growth of the rings.

Rusty

 

[dikman]

Thanks Rusty. I took it to the range yesterday. Only a couple of club members turned up, but both are very knowledgeable and have many years experience with guns (particularly "older" guns). They also own custom flintlocks. They were quite impressed with the woodwork on this one and were of the opinion that it's curly maple with a dark stain applied. Whatever it is, it sure looks nice!

My very first shot worked! Yay! The next three didn't! I quickly started learning about the vagaries of shooting flintlocks - picking the vent, aligning the flint, keeping the face of the flint clean, knapping the flint etc etc. All-in-all it was a very good day, I had intended shooting my revolver too, but just didn't quite get around to it!

We also came to the conclusion that this rifle hadn't been used much by the previous owner. When I got it the frizzen only had a few scratch marks on it, by the time I'd finished (about 70 rounds through it) it was showing significantly greater signs of use. Some of the recovered patches were showing possible cut marks from the rifling, again a sign of not much use, but probably the biggest indicator was the sights. They appear to have never been adjusted and the front sight hadn't been filed.
I couldn't even figure out where my first shots, at 50 yds, were hitting. After persevering for a while I went back to 25 yards, and found they were hitting very low and way to the left!! The thing had never been sighted in! I drifted the front sight over and got it more or less on the centreline, but next visit I'll take a small file and start attacking the front sight.

To cap it off, it turns out another club member went into the shop looking for a flintlock, seems I just beat him to it. Can't wait to show him what he missed out on :haha: .

Ahhh, life is good.....

 

[Alden]

dik;
Congrats on shooting it! Still want a picture -- now more than ever. And, gosh, 70 shots sure is a lot to me! Still, don't be so quick to file the front sight....

Find a load, or loads, that work(s) best for the range(s) and purpose(s) you want including getting used to the gun's fit and mechanics, shooting style and position(s), powder, ball, patch, lube choice...

"Measure twice, cut once"!

The alternative, I assure you, shall ultimately result in what flintlock shooters technically refer to as "a repair."

 

[Billnpatti]

The best wax you can use on your gun stocks is the same one that museums use. It is called Renaissance Wax. It is a bit pricy but it is the best. :thumbsup: Sometimes you can find it at fine furniture stores but you can also order it from places like Brownell's and other gun supply places. I know Dixie Gun Works also has it. Probably, your next best bet is a good quality paste floor wax. Johnson's Paste Floor Wax is good and readily available in most places like Wal-Mart or larger grocery stores. Look in the area where mops and brooms are sold. In any event, Renaissance Wax is your best bet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OZagOg2Bek

 

[Critter Getter]

Thanks for the link. That wax looks like good stuff. I see I believe where TVM recommends using type F transmission fluid all over their guns. Any ideas on that? Greg

 

[Critter Getter]

Dikman, have you been shooting groups with your Frontier at 50 yards ? What kind of groups have you been able to see out of your new flinter? Also did you notice any improvements on how your gun looks with that wax job applied to it? Greg

 

[Billnpatti]

I have no idea why they recommend transmission fluid for use on their guns. I have found several different products that seem to work very well as rust preventives, Renaissance Wax, 3 in 1 oil, Barricade and a relatively new product that seems to be working quite well called Frog Lube. The transmission fluid may be fine but I have never used it and I don't know anyone who has.

 

[dikman]

Alden, I'll get around to the picture - eventually. I was mainly trying to get a feel for the gun on Saturday. The heaviest load I had was 60 gns 2f (and 50 gns 3f), which I used up, so I have to weigh out some new loads for hopefully this weekend. I'll start with 70 gns, which should suit the .50 cal better. Oh, I was using 4f for priming, but ran out so used 3f, which worked fine. I also ran out of the thicker patches I'd made, so I've got a few things to do!

I intend to benchrest at 50 yards, now that I've sort of got them hitting somewhere on the centreline, and don't worry, I won't be filing the sight until I've got a fairly consistent group somewhere on the target. The vent hole is actually a screw-in doohicky (technical term) and when I removed it I saw that it was actually hollow on the inside (i.e. not a solid plug with a small hole through it), so when I load the powder if I tap the side of the stock by the lock it should make sure that the main powder charge works its way into the vent area.

I had quite a few instances when the main charge wouldn't ignite. I was cleaning between shots (had a lot of fouling and a couple of times the ball almost got stuck half-way down!) and suspect I may have pushed some fouling too far down which may have caused the problem. Anyhow, it's a theory.

I know about Renaissance Wax (some knifemakers use it), but I don't know if it's even available here. The stuff I used seemed ok, it removed some marks from a label that the gunshop stuck on and I buffed it up with a soft cloth and think it looks fine. Johnson's Paste Wax, btw, isn't available here in Oz (unfortunately).

Critter Getter, I wouldn't be using trans. fluid on the stock. It's still a petroleum product, so I'd keep it away from wood finishes.

 

[Archie]

Q#08, Under their FAQ heading on the TVM site:

Why do you use Type F transmission fluid for oiling a rifle?

”‹The Type F transmission fluid is an inexpensive paraffin based oil that does not hurt the stock.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/newpost.php?fid/17/tid/287757/pid/1384152/type/reply/

 

[BrownBear]

My own 50 Frontier is older than dirt. Dunno when it was built because I got it second hand about 5 years ago from a guy that shot it for a whole lot of years. Still reliable and accurate as they come, but some of what works in it may be due to many 1k's of rounds down the bore.

Mine demands that I poke the flash hole after loading, and it doesn't want a real hard seating of the ball. Just push the ball home and stop when you first feel it touch the powder. Then before you prime, reach in and wiggle your pick or whatever around in the powder for a moment. Then it virtually never misfires. My fault on the rare occasion it does, because I probably forgot my poking around.

Mine greatly prefers 3f to 2f for the main charge according to the former owner, and doesn't seem to know the difference between 3f and 4f for prime. Kinda handy to have my main charge and my prime all in the same horn.

I'm still shooting a .490 ball with a ticking patch lubed with mink tallow lube from TOW. I say "still" because I find it pretty easy to seat the ball, and I'm wondering if going to a thicker patch or .495 ball might tighten an already good group. Got the mold and got the patches, but also got the sloth that keeps me from trying them. It ain't broke, so I ain't fixing.

Mine is decidedly happy with 80 grains of 3f, but the deer are decidedly unhappy with it. Never plunked one past about 75 yards, but they go down with authority. Groups at 50 yards run 2"-3", depending how my geezerly eyes are working on any day. The guy I bought it from won matches with it, so I'm guessing younger eyes could do better.

BTW- that ball/patch/charge combo I'm using isn't one I pulled out of the air. It's the same that the former owner won matches with. Come to think of it, I can't remember trying anything else in it, so who knows....

Dink with your gun and loads. Most guns require some shooting before they really settle in and shoot to their potential. I'd be hesitant to dingle around with your sights until well after 100 balls have smacked the target.

 

[Alden]

...The vent hole is actually a screw-in doohicky (technical term) and when I removed it I saw that it was actually hollow on the inside (i.e. not a solid plug with a small hole through it), so when I load the powder if I tap the side of the stock by the lock it should make sure that the main powder charge works its way into the vent area...

Critter Getter, I wouldn't be using trans. fluid on the stock. It's still a petroleum product, so I'd keep it away from wood finishes.

The concave doohicky shouldn't need any special treatment.

I tried that trany-fluid thing at Matt's suggestion (and others who describe its composition as essentially synthetic whale-oil with rust inhibitors added) when a TVM-fanatic friend and I eventually bought my own TVM, but, I found the smell offputting and that it did a terrible job of stopping rust except under the absolute best conditions (such as being put on a rack in a dry, climate-controlled, area and never touched or even left too many years before oiling again).