My ramrod keeps falling out?

[Brad]

I have a green mt. barrel that i put together, the only thing i forgot is that little tab you put on your rib to keep your ramrod from falling out, like on the t/c guns, what can i do to keep my ramrod from falling out? I can't put the t/c one on my gun cause of the screws i used.

 

[Dave K]

Put the rod over a boiling pot of water and put a bend in it, once it is well steamed. That should help. Otherwise place a leaf stem between the rod and the ramrod pipe near the muzzle to wedge it in. Usually plenty of them lying around.

 

[bob1961]

i'd say the T/C tab will work and can be had at a couple of places...................bob

 

[olgriz]

Bend the ram rod. Doesn't have to be much. Dry heat will do it also, heat it so it's too hot to hold in that spot but not so hot it scorches it, and then put a little bend until it cools. You probably want to bend it about twice as much as you think you need, because it straightens out a bit. That's the method that is used to straighten out wood arrows, and it works good.

 

[roundball]

I have a green mt. barrel that i put together, the only thing i forgot is that little tab you put on your rib to keep your ramrod from falling out, like on the t/c guns, what can i do to keep my ramrod from falling out? I can't put the t/c one on my gun cause of the screws i used.

Then you'd have a barrel that still had a part missing, plus you'd have a bent ramrod...why screw around with make-do fixes...just contact GM and have them drop a couple in the mail
:m2c:

 

[shmrck1]

brad,
:agree:with roundball. green mountain is very easy to deal with, i have done so on several occasions and have always found them to be very accomadating. check the links forum for contact info :imo: :results:
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR
snake-eyes :m2c: eace:

 

[Brad]

can't bend my ram rod it's not wood, also got my barrel in the white, put the breech plug in and stuff myself. i just got the blank barrel from them. thanks for you help though

 

[musketman]

How about off-setting the thimbles a bit...

 

can't bend my ram rod it's not wood, also got my barrel in the white, put the breech plug in and stuff myself. i just got the blank barrel from them. thanks for you help though

Ya might think 'bout git'n a wood ramrod, ain't none of'em perfectly straight and it'll likely stay wher ya want it!!

YMHS
rollingb

 

[BambiSlayer]

Its not PC but you could take the barrel out of the stock and make a small epoxy(JB Weld) pimple like in the ramrod channel to tighten it up. I did it to my Investarms I had trouble with and it works great. No one has known about it but me till now.this way you can make it tighter by adding epoxy to the spot or loosen by sanding some away. :thumbsup:

 

[jrdavis]

can't bend my ram rod it's not wood, also got my barrel in the white, put the breech plug in and stuff myself. i just got the blank barrel from them. thanks for you help though

You might try taking a short piece of brass tube from the hardware store and soldering it on the inside of the bottom ramrod tube...might have to use a couple of them inside each other to get the right size...or just make smaller ramrod tubes

 

[Brad]

how do ya make a wood rod,i'll have too.. because it'll be about 38'' or 39'' in for my barrel length. The end adaptors mainly, how do i secure those on? I could take the ones off and old t/c barrel.

 

[jrdavis]

how do ya make a wood rod,i'll have too.. because it'll be about 38'' or 39'' in for my barrel length. The end adaptors mainly, how do i secure those on? I could take the ones off and old t/c barrel.

buy or make your tip or tips mark the depth of the tip on the end of the rod and use a knife or file to cut it down so the tip is a snug fit. with the tip on the end of the rod observe the grain and drill a 1/16 hole at right angle to the grain at about the middle of the wood inside the tip . counter sink the outside of the hole and use a short piece of 1/16
brass rod to pin the tip after you put some Epoxie on the rod end . then ping down the 1/16 brass rod into the counter sunk hole and file flush.
if your going to make you rod from a Hickory log you will need to split out a stalf a little longer than you need. then you will need to make a pull plate ...us something like 1/4" plate and drill a hole the size that you want the finished rod to be the counter sink all the way from one sid to the other (don't make the hole large, just sharp) use a C clamp to clamp the plate to something sturdy and whiddle one end down and start through the hole in the pull plate when started attach a set of vice grips and PULL

 

[riarcher]

Have same problem.
Piece of self-stick (fizzy) Velcro stuck on behind a thimble in the channel worked for me just fine. Used the black and you can't see it unless you look really close.
Stays put, can still use rod in normal fashion.
Now, bending a wood rod (IF it was) I've learned from archery is not a "strong" idea.

 

You can remove on of the rr pipes and center punch a small dimple on the backside where it will not show.

You can loop a piece of string or leather through the rr pipe and tie it to "choke" the rr.

Or you could do like Roundball says and order the part from GM. 'course I have had very little experience with doing theings "right" so I really can't say how such an experiment would turn out!
:thumbsup:

 

[shmrck1]

brad,
i think you are cutting GM a little short. contact them and i would almost bet they will help you out. call
603-447-1095 and Keri will put you in touch with their tech
person who i am sure will help you once you explain your problem. or www.gmriflebarrel.com :imo: :results:
snake-eyes

 

[Brad]

thank's men...great advice..Hope to make some meat here in PA on monday with this gun. Have a very merry christmas.

 

[waksupi]

The old way was to put a buckskin thong, or piece of trade wool in the front thimble to retain the rods.

 

You didn't mention the caliber. Assuming the caliber is >.45, I would make a tapered rod. By rights you should use split hickory, however, if you choose to use hickory dowell, that will be fine. start with 7/16 dowell and taper it to fit. It should go in easily once reduced to about 3/8". leave the last 1" or so at about 7/16 with a nice taper from the 3/8 to 7/16. Start the taper from the top RR pipe and have it fully "flared" about 1" from the end. No need to install a tip. The larger end will put side force on the rod in the top pipe and hold it in place. A great way to do the taper and thin the rod down a bit is to get a washer with about a 1/2 - 9/16 hole, bevel the sides of the hole to make a scraper. Then just mount the washer standing upright in a vice and pull the rod through. You can shave the rod down nicely and easily this way. Hope this helps

 

[CG6018]

Since you only have a couple of days until the opener,you might simply wedge a piece of leather between the rod and ramrod channel at the front thimble. Mine is also loose so I use an extra flint leather to snug it up. Works for me.