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New Hopkins & Allen

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CoyoteJoe

70 Cal.
Joined
Feb 1, 2005
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My friend's H&A underhammer arrived yesterday from Blue Grouse. That is the Heritage model, still haven't seen a buggy rifle.
This rifle bears a strong resemblance to the old Hopkins & Allen of thirty years ago but has no parts in common with it. This is all new production.
Comparing it to an old H&A Heritage I noticed that the old rifles reciever appears to be a thick wall tube, smoothly bent and milled out at the bottom for hammer and trigger and with flanges brazed or silversoldered front and rear to accept barrel and stock. The new recievers are a solid cast piece, slightly smaller in diameter and with both sides flattened by milling. I think the hammer,trigger and trigger guard could be fitted to older rifles but that's just my eyeball opinion. The barrel is held to the reciever by a stub of the breech plug which slips into a hole in the front of the reciever and is bound there by three 1/4x28 screws, one from the top and one from each side. The old model used a tapered pin through the reciever and breech plug from left to right.
Blue Grouse is the distributor, they are actually made by Deer Creek Products, which also makes the barrels on the old Douglas machines. Twist is 1:66 on all calibers, .36, .45 and .50 at present. The reciever could accept barrels up to 1 1/8" across the flats.
My friend's rifle is in .36 caliber and I noticed some roughness when swabbing out the grease, so I pulled the breech plug and looking through the bore several areas show deep chatter marks on top of the lands. Whether that will be a problen, only shooting will tell.
This rifle is described as "in-the-white" but don't let that lead you to believe you need only sand, stain and oil the maple stock. You'll need a lot of rasp and file work first.
This .36 cal has a 7/8" by 32" barrel and weighs 7 3/4 pounds, maybe less than 7 1/2 once the excess wood is removed. I don't know if the .45 and .50's use a 7/8" barrel. The old H&A's were 15/16" barrels in all standard calibers plus 1 1/8" in the .45 target version and in .58 caliber.
One of the neat features of this design is that barrels can be easily interchanged. Just loosen three set screws, pull out the barrel, insert another, tighten screws and away you go. One could have a 12ga. trap gun, a squirrel rifle, a heavy bench rest gun and a light hunting rifle all for just the cost of the barrels and all of them would have the fast and reliable underhammer ignition.
This rifle came with a very good, crisp trigger which broke at a few ounces under 3 pounds. I had to do a lot of work on my old H&A to get the same trigger pull and mine is still a bit mushy.
I'm glad to see this rifle on the market. A real, all American made rifle for under $300.
Bruce Lingenfelter, who, with wife Karen, run Blue Grouse said he has heritage models, the 32" barrel, ready to ship and is just waiting for Deer Creek to run off a batch of 26" barrels for the buggy rifles. He expects that once production gets caught up he should also have barrels in various calibers available and ready to install on the customer's frame.
At present, barrels are the hold-up, since Deer Creek is also producing the new Mountain Rifle, formerly CVA, the Mowrey rifle and several others, that's a lot of barrels for a one man shop.
If you have one of the rifles it would be very simple to fit any make of barrel, although the forend would require some ingenuity since the H&A forend, new or old, is attached by pins drilled right through the barrel. :huh:
I think this is a neat, slim and graceful rifle, admittedly not a Hawken or Kintuck but a real late percussion era workhorse of a rifle.
 
Please update and let us know how she shoots. I am seriouly considering ordering a .50. Bruce says he can get 2'' groups at 100yds with these babies. That would be nice.
 
I got mine from Union Creek muzzleloading, but the gun was drop shipped from Deer Creek Products in Indiana.

I can't confirm anything about the .50 caliber version, but the .45 caliber does have a 15/16" barrel as measured across the opposing flats. I am very impressed by the crisp trigger pull also, and mine is just at right around 3 1/2lbs pull weight. Mine is the 32" barrelled Heritage version.

I did not notice any roughness when cleaning mine out for the first time. I have a home-made "drop in" bore light for muzzleloaders, so I did not have to pull the breech plug.

At least in the standard calibers that are using "Deer Creek" barrels, I believe these all have "cut rifling". It ought to be "broken in" by a couple hundred shots, before seeing what kind of accuracy it is capable of doing. I think Blue Grouse uses Rayl barrels for the "custom" calibers.

I am very well pleased with the accuracy (best so far is just under 1.5" at 100yds), and the rifle has a "fascination factor" that just won't let go. I think everyone ought to have at least one of these guns in their lifetime.

Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly
 
Coyote Joe,

I'm going to use a Green Mountain IBS Barrel on the underhammer I'm having built. (See my thread in the builders bench section.) Jimbo's Underhammer
I'm having a custom stock built with a long forend to look something like this:
poorbambi.jpg

Since they're drop-ins for TC Renegades, I'm planning on using the wedge pin as a point of attachment. The forend will have to be inletted for the ramrod thimbles. I'm hoping to make this inletting a channel which will make the timbles 2 other points of attachment.
Thanks for clearing up some misconceptions I had about the origin of Bruce's underhammers. I had assumed they were coming from Numrich (Egunparts).

Jimbo
 
idelt with deercreek for years they are realy good people always get me my gun to me in 10 to 14 days, i called today wednesday and the problem is the short barrels are way over do like 3 or 4 months ive had 2 buggy barrels 50 and 54 on order for 3 or 4 months, i know he doesnt hasnt ever lied to me and said ballels would get to him in 6 weeks or less.i tryed green moutain they want 290 for what will cost me 105 i think it is,think ill wait 6 more weeks! but im looking at other barrels still its jts just a breech plug $8 and drill tap for nip. i even played with the barrel liner idea but id have to do it around here anyone ever done this? anyone got a old 58 cal h and a for sell?
 
i got my 50 from deercreek about 3 months ago and did put 200 thru it but i dont belive in 1x66 is ball only. with barrel mounted scope 2 inchs is a done deal. it was so good i put in a order for another 50 buggy and a 54 out of the 15 rifles ive got i do like this one the best.the 54 takes a 1 inch barrel.
 
A bit more info on this Deer Creek .36 cal. barrel.
As near as I can measure with my old Craftsman vernier calipers, the bore is about .355" and groove diameter .375". The eight grooves are very narrow, only about 1/2 the width of the lands.
This is a matter of personal preference but I'm no fan of deep narrow grooves, hard to clean and, I suspect, hard to seal with patching.
A Hornady .350 buckshot with .021" pillow ticking seems about right but I did feel every bit of roughness in the bore as I pushed it through. It is an EXTREMELY rough bore.
It appears as if the reamer did not clear all the roughness of the drilling operation or the reamer itself was dull or insufficently lubed. Some portions of the lands look like dull saw blades.
Things will have to wait untill my friend (actual gun owner) returns from a vacation trip but I will recomend that he return it, I doubt that they all are that bad.
Unfortunate, since I otherwise like that little rifle. :boohoo: :boohoo: :boohoo:
 
Jimbo, interchangeable barrels is one of the appealing features of the underhammer action and I like your idea of using a full length forestock, lots better than drilling pin holes through the barrel.
However, if you expect to use the same forestock with other barrels they would have to all be the same length as well as diameter. A one inch by 32" barrel would weigh about 4 1/2 pounds in .62 caliber but 6 1/2 pounds in .36, that would make for a pretty hefty squirrel rifle, maybe OK for match shooting but a chore to pack in the woods and hills. I think you might want at least two sizes of forestock. Like maybe a one inch for the big bores and 7/8" for .50 and smaller.
I also wonder why you would use the IBS barrels. Seems to me you will be paying for a breech plug to be discarded and an underrib which serves no purpose on a fullstock and adds more weight and would complicate fitting a fullstock forend,not to mention those clunky T/C style sights.
Why not just get a plain Green Mountain and stock it in the normal fullstock manner, save a lot of money and bother.
Now if you were doing a half stock, then IBS may be the way to go, though still discarding a $25 patten breech:imo:
 
Coyote,

The IBS barrels have all the drawbacks you mentioned and I'm not crazy about the sights. The reason I'm leaning this direction is that I have 10 thumbs and no gunsmithing abilities. I'd have to pay for the barrel and then pay to have it finished (dovetails, thimbles, sights, etc). Bruce at blue Grouse charges upwards of $200 for this. The advantage of the custom route would be to have more choices in sights and easier fitting of the forestock.

What appealed to me about IBS is they're almost ready to shoot. I ordered the custom breech plug with the threading compatible with the IBS barrels. All that's needed is a bottoming tap to square up the plug with the top flat of the barrel, a nipple hole drilled, and the forend fitted. My thinking was that the savings would allow me to get it built at a reasonable cost. I also like the wide variety of calibers, finishes, twists, etc. available. This would allow me to use the same forestock. I chose the 1" because I'd like to eventually have a .62 smoothbore for turkey hunting. Yes, I would have 2 leftover pieces - an H&A breech plug which wouldn't fit the IBS, and an IBS patent breech. Your also correct that it could be a pain fitting the forestock to the barrel.

You may have pointed out a flaw in my logic, that what I save in finishing costs may be spent adapting the IBS to my purpose. I need to rethink this.

Thanks,
Jimbo
 
I see your point Jimbo, I've cut so many dovetails over the years that I no longer consider it much of a chore. If you phone Track O Wolf I think they will cut dovetails for $10.oo a slot if you buy the barrel from them and that is way cheap compared to normal gunsmith cost. You'd need two for sights and two for underlugs. The breechplug is just a 5/8x18 bolt cut to length.
If you don't have your heart set on a full stock the IBS system would make more sense as a halfstock, the one key should be enough. Then it might not be such a chore to make a couple of forstocks in different diameters and with a halfstock you can use different lengths to keep the weight within reason. If I wanted interchangable barrels in a variety of calibers I'd hate to be tied to one diameter and one length.
Whatever you do, ENJOY!! :m2c:
 
Coyote Joe,

Thanks for your patience. I took my Renegade apart to look at the barrel more closely.

gmibsnotes.jpg


What I like about the GM IBS barrels are that they are completely finished at a price of $265 for stainless and $185 for Blued. They have a fast-twist .54 that doesn't seem to be available in the regular barrels. The regular barrels would need bluing or some other type of finishing.
What I don't like about the GM IBS barrels is that I am paying for an underrib, ramrod thimbles, and a patent breech that I won't use, as well as a rear sight I don't like and would replace with an action-mounted peep. I would have to remove the underrib, put in a second underlug, and fill in the rear sight dovetail. I am assuming that a ramrod channel in the long forend would suffice to secure the ramrod.
The regular GM barrels appear to be unfinished. I would have to pay for bluing at $100 + in addition to the $115-125 for the barrel plus the 3 dovetails.

It appears that the costs would be similar for either barrel.

What I would really like to find, is a finished, blued .54 fast-twist that would only need the 3 dovetails that. I'm think that I ought to talk to some of the other barrel makers like Ed Rayl to see if I can find a better solution.

Thanks for pointing those things out.

Jimbo
 
Actually you can do some pretty good shooting with an aperature out at the normal rear sight position. The end of war Japanese rifles had them and they are suprisingly accurate. They do require bright light though, when it gets dim, like early or late in the day, or in deep woods, you can't see the front sight. :front:
 
Hi

Track of the wolf sells a peep sight that is meant to be
mounted in a rear sight dovetail like a regular rear sight.I
have one and am planning to use it on my under hammer.Go to
Tracks web site then to the gun parts section under rear
tang sights and target second page #RS-CA-PEEP.Looks like a
regular bladed rear sight but has a hole in the center.



Jeff
 
JIMBO IVE BEEN WORKING ON THIS FIND ANOTHER BARREL FOR A WHILE HAPPY TO HAVE SOMEONE ELES ON IT TOO. IM NOY GOING TO PAYABOUT 300 TO GM OR ANYONE,MY SPARE BARREL FROM DEERCREEK WAS JUST 110 WITH THE RIFLE ! I JUST WANT A FAST TWIST 451 TO GO WITH THE H and A.since IM SET UP FOR IT ALSO WE CAN GET CVAS STALKER CARBS OR INVESTARMS CARBS FOR UNDER 100 BOTH BARRELS SHOOT JUST FINE. SO WHY DOESNT SOMEONE COME UP WITH A EAZY WAY TO WORK THOSE IN ? ILL CALL BLUE AND ASK THAT ONE. FOR THE RECORD DEERCREEK ISNT MAKEING A NEW CVA RIFLE THEY HAVE HAD THAT ONE FOR YEARS,AND THE HOLD UP ISNT THEM ITS WHO THEY GET THE BLANKS FROM ON BARRELS.THEY CUT EACH ONE ONE AT A TIME ANDE I HOPE ITS ON A OLD DOUGLAS LYMAN MAD A MINE THAT WORKED GREAT OUT OF DOUGLAS 1X66S DEERCREEK DOESNT HAVE TIME FOR A WEB SO CALL THEM AT 765 525 6181. IM GOING TO TRY SOME OF BLUES STUFF TOO HE THINKS LIKE I DO THE 1X66 IS A BALL SHOOTER FOR PEOPLE THAT HAVENT TRYED OTHER STUFF! IF YOUR GOING TO MATCH SHOOT THEY HAVE A POINT AND 1X66 WONT WORK ON MY 451 X475, 500, 550 GR BULLETS BUT THATS ABOUT ALL,BLUE SEEMS TO HAVE DONE A LOT OF SHOOTING WITH A LOT OF DIFFRENT BULLETS AND THEY DO THE JOB MOST TIMES, BUT WE )WE BEING THE BUYERS( NEED TO FIND A WAY OR SOURCE OF FAST TWIST BARRELS,DEERCREEK CANT THEY DONT HAVE THE TIME TO CHANGE UP FOR A SMALLER ORDER(THEY USE TO) NOT ENOUGH DEMAND.SOMEONE SOME PLACE IS ABOUT TO FIGURE OUT THEY GOT A MAARKET HERE,BUT WE ARE BUYING A CHEAPER TYPE OF RIFLE WE DONT WANT TO THROW 300 BUCKS OUT ON 4 OR 5 BARRELS! DONE ,CAN I GET A AHEM, :yakyak: :front:
 
FW,

I'll try on my end to locate sombody. I, like you, want the fast twist. I shoot all the PRB I want to out of my Renegade flinter. I'd like to get into some long range target shooting. From what I understand, the 1:66 will shoot short conicals OK, but just don't have enough spin to stabilize at long range. Since this rifle is being built from scratch the way I WANT IT, I don't want to make any compromises on the barrel.

I don't have the time or the skills to blue the barrel. If I could only find one crowned, breeched for the H&A, and blued for $200 or less, I'd be happy. All I'd have to do is get 3 dovetails cut for the front sight and the underlugs.

I'm at Hatteras fishing this week, but when I get back, I'll make some calls. I'm also going to take the barrel off my Renegade and take it to Dave, my gunsmith, let him look at it and get his opinion.

Up to now, the cheapest alternative for me seems to be to get a GM IBS, tear the underrib and thimbals off, and dovetail and install a second underlug for the long forend. This still doesn't address the issue of the rear sight location. I might just look for a peep sight which will work at a longer distance from the eye. This is a worst case scenario and should cost under $250.

I'm going to look for other barrels before I do this. I'll pass on to you any useful information I get.

Jimbo
 
Slamfire,

Thanks for the idea. I'm thinking that if the ghost ring is used for hunting with the aperture removed combined with a fluorescent front sight like the Williams on the Green Mountain barrels, it might make this application better for dusk or dawn hunting. Maybe even use a little day-glo lure paint around the ghost ring.

Jimbo
 
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