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I think Dutch meant that newbies won't know SPG from KFC unless you tell them what it is. They won't understand the the technical jargon and acronyms.
 
WHEN YOU ABBREVIATE THE NAMES OF NOT WIDLEY KNOWN ITEMS YOU ARE SPEAKING IN CODE TO THE NEWBIE WHO IS DISCOURAGED THAT HE HAS TO GUESS WHAT HJ YOU ARE TAKING ABOUT.
TOO MANY OF THISOBSCRURANTISM AND WE LOSE A POTENTIAL ACTIVE ADDITIO TO THE SPORT.
IT ALSO REFLECTS ON YOR DESIRE TO COMMUNICATE WHICH IS OK IFTHAT'S WHAT YOU WANT TO DO.

JUST ATHOUGHT.

DUTCH

Say again...:confused:
 
You dissolve a small amount of castor oil in denatured alcohol, then leave the patches out to evaporate out the alcohol. You're not supposed to have any residual alcohol in the patch fibers. A fine amount of castor oil is absorbed into the patch fibers, yielding essentially a dry patch. There is no excess oil in the patch to react with combustion and residual fouling is at a minimum. I've found it to be very clean in PRB applications, and also for cap &* ball revolver paper wads, musket TOW wads and also vegetable fiber wads for muzzleloading shotgun loads. I find it works for me better than any of my previous patch or wad lubes & there is no reason for me to ever quit using my castor oil blend.
Castor oil has many industrial uses, and has been used as a 2 stroke and other engine hi temp applications due to its' temperature stability and outstanding lubricationg properties.
Here's more than what you want to know about castor oil.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5015816/
What is your ratio of castor oil to denatured alcohol?
 
WHEN YOU ABBREVIATE THE NAMES OF NOT WIDLEY KNOWN ITEMS YOU ARE SPEAKING IN CODE TO THE NEWBIE WHO IS DISCOURAGED THAT HE HAS TO GUESS WHAT HJ YOU ARE TAKING ABOUT.
TOO MANY OF THISOBSCRURANTISM AND WE LOSE A POTENTIAL ACTIVE ADDITIO TO THE SPORT.
IT ALSO REFLECTS ON YOR DESIRE TO COMMUNICATE WHICH IS OK IFTHAT'S WHAT YOU WANT TO DO.

JUST ATHOUGHT.

DUTCH
Thank you Dutch. Got it.

B.
 
As far as lube, I prefer spit. Cold hunting over many days is another matter. The O.P. was about leaving a fired gun unwashed for another day. I found that concoction intriguing.
AS FAR AS BEES WAX, its all filtered to some extent. Otherwise, you would have bee legs in it at the very least. MOST yellow comes from comb wax. MOST white comes from the cappings taken off before extracting the honey. In the private sector I mean, not factories with thousands in equipment to clean it up.
You don't want to see the old, black or brown wax that comes with 3 or 4 year old frames. That's why we have brown beeswax candle dye. You just cant get it white again. Too many years of contaminants, both bee and environmental.
 
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You dissolve a small amount of castor oil in denatured alcohol, then leave the patches out to evaporate out the alcohol. You're not supposed to have any residual alcohol in the patch fibers. A fine amount of castor oil is absorbed into the patch fibers, yielding essentially a dry patch. There is no excess oil in the patch to react with combustion and residual fouling is at a minimum. I've found it to be very clean in PRB applications, and also for cap &* ball revolver paper wads, musket TOW wads and also vegetable fiber wads for muzzleloading shotgun loads. I find it works for me better than any of my previous patch or wad lubes & there is no reason for me to ever quit using my castor oil blend.
Castor oil has many industrial uses, and has been used as a 2 stroke and other engine hi temp applications due to its' temperature stability and outstanding lubricationg properties.
Here's more than what you want to know about castor oil.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5015816/
Can you be more specific as to how much castor oil and denatured alcohol you are using? I'd like to try this combination since I have a supply of both.
 
CATOR OIL WAS USED AS THE LUBRICANT OF AIRCRAFT ENGINS in World War One.The engine splatted excess castor oil during the flight that the pilots inhaled a lot of it withe result that , castor oil being a lazitive, the pilots usually rushed to the plumbing upon landing.



This Alkyhole and castor oil is very similar to my Dry Patch lube formula using Ballistic and Water. He does not speak of regulating the amount of castor oil left in his patches to adjust the degree of slickness.
It sounds pretty good to me and would have loved to experiment with it.

Dutch Schoultz

Can you be more specific as to how much castor oil and denatured alcohol you are using? I'd like to try this combination since I have a supply of both.
 
I like a spit patch with a jaw full of tobacco. SPG lube for my conicals.
BOTTOM LINE ...experiment and use whatever works for you and your gun.
8 BORE
 
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Just outa curiosity, I've read this thread and have seen no reference to Gatofeo's #1 (make it yourself) lube. I've used it for all my BP needs for quite a few years and never been disappointed.
 
I've tried several dilutions and settled on 5 parts Denatured Alcohol to 1 part Caster Oil.
I got my last batch of castor oil from a seller on e-bay -- no particular brand name.
Thank you for the ratio mix. One other question, do you lay them flat or hang them to dry? Thanks, Steve
 
WHEN YOU HANG A FABRIC TO DRY, GRAVITY CAUSES THE LIQUID TO TRAVEL TO THE LOWEST PART AND THEN WHEN DRY THELUBRICANT WILL BE MORE EVIDENT ON THE THE LPWER HANGING PARTS AND THERE WILL BE NO CONSISTENCY IN THE SLICKNESS.


LETTING THE FABRIC DRY ON A FLAT HORIZINTAL NON ABSORBENT SURFACE IS THE ONLY WAY TO GO.

DUTCH

Thank you for the ratio mix. One other question, do you lay them flat or hang them to dry? Thanks, Steve
 
SPG is the name of the lube.
The name is taken from the initials of the inventor.
The "P" stands for Paul.
The concoction works very nicely as a patch or Minie lube.
Fun Facts To Know and Tell, it also works very well as a cast bullet lube with The Holy Black,
and smokeless too.
I went to SPG a long time ago, haven't regretted it one bit.
Just try stuff out, see if it works for you, and use it, ain't none of it going to the moon.
 
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