Joel/Calgary
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2004
- Messages
- 1,251
- Reaction score
- 6
Especially since the disappearance of bismuth (bismuth-tin alloy) shot, there's been interest in "Nice Shot" - a tungsten-iron alloy suspended in a tin matrix & coating, with about the same density and hardness as high-alloy lead shot. Unfortunately, it's as expensive as one might expect - currently US$60 per kg(2.2lb). The inventor's website is http://www.niceshotinc.com/ and the actual supplier is http://www.ecotungsten.com/shots.html It sounds good, but there were still some questions that had not been explicitly answered about its suitability for muzzleloaders, so I posted a couple of questions via the "comments" section on the NiceShot blog http://www.ecotungsten-niceshot.blogspot.com/ There's more there that's relevant, but below are my post and his answers. To read all the comments & questions/answers, scroll to the bottom of the blog and click on the word comments - it currently says "22 comments".
The short answer seems to be "We're in business!" Plus, he's looking into making non-toxic roundballs!
Joel
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Anonymous said...
Hi, Dan,
My hunting partners and I are looking at doing more of our waterfowling with our muzzleloaders. Thus far, we've done well with a dwindling supply of Bismuth #4s in lieu of lead #5s for ducks, and the one with a choked double has been impressed with them on the Canadas he's shot (medium to small, around here - no giants). Hence the first couple of questions:
- Will Nice Shot work in older (non-steel-shot) barrels without shotcups, or will we have use some sort of shot protectors?
- Have you had any reports of folks using Nice Shot #5s on (smaller) geese, especially at sub-1200fps velocities? I realize we can go to #4s when after geese at our ranges, or even #3s if you ever make them (don't really need #2s), but a one-size-fits-most shot is quite desirable when hunting primarily ducks with muzzleloaders, and #4s would leave the pattern kind of open for teal (assuming we can hit with them!).
On to other matters:
- Can you tell us the Brinell hardness of the TTI alloy? I vaguely recall an impression of maybe mid to upper teens from something on the original version of your website.
- As a slightly off-the-wall question, might the alloy be suitable for use as round-balls for use in areas under lead bans, like the California condor area? If so, is the alloy amenable to home-casting, and/or could you set up to produce the balls for the most common calibers, possibly .440", .490", .530", and .570"? I don't know how familiar you are with front-stuffers, but this is a subject that has generated much anxiety and discussion in muzzleloader hunting circles, and smoothbores don't care how hard the ball is, while rifles can generally use hard-alloy balls in a smaller ball with thicker patch combination.
- For that matter, non-toxic .22RF ammo might be worth investigating for similar reasons.
Thanks
May 15, 2008 12:46 PM
Blogger Big Dan said...
Hi Guys!
Nice Shot will work in your barrels without a shotcup, although a dash of graphite would keep any buildup of tin from forming.
#5 will work on smaller geese, a couple of my friends use it in there 20 gauges.
The hardness is 14.9~16.0 Brinell. A little harder than magnum lead shot.
As for the round ball for muzzle loaders. We are looking into manufacturing this in the near future but melting down the shot to cast round balls doesn't work well because the materials do not stay suspended evenly causing an out of balance ball.
Hope this answered your questions. If you have any more concerns, please post or contact me by email.
Thanks,
Dan
May 27, 2008 8:40 PM
The short answer seems to be "We're in business!" Plus, he's looking into making non-toxic roundballs!
Joel
-------------------------------------------
Anonymous said...
Hi, Dan,
My hunting partners and I are looking at doing more of our waterfowling with our muzzleloaders. Thus far, we've done well with a dwindling supply of Bismuth #4s in lieu of lead #5s for ducks, and the one with a choked double has been impressed with them on the Canadas he's shot (medium to small, around here - no giants). Hence the first couple of questions:
- Will Nice Shot work in older (non-steel-shot) barrels without shotcups, or will we have use some sort of shot protectors?
- Have you had any reports of folks using Nice Shot #5s on (smaller) geese, especially at sub-1200fps velocities? I realize we can go to #4s when after geese at our ranges, or even #3s if you ever make them (don't really need #2s), but a one-size-fits-most shot is quite desirable when hunting primarily ducks with muzzleloaders, and #4s would leave the pattern kind of open for teal (assuming we can hit with them!).
On to other matters:
- Can you tell us the Brinell hardness of the TTI alloy? I vaguely recall an impression of maybe mid to upper teens from something on the original version of your website.
- As a slightly off-the-wall question, might the alloy be suitable for use as round-balls for use in areas under lead bans, like the California condor area? If so, is the alloy amenable to home-casting, and/or could you set up to produce the balls for the most common calibers, possibly .440", .490", .530", and .570"? I don't know how familiar you are with front-stuffers, but this is a subject that has generated much anxiety and discussion in muzzleloader hunting circles, and smoothbores don't care how hard the ball is, while rifles can generally use hard-alloy balls in a smaller ball with thicker patch combination.
- For that matter, non-toxic .22RF ammo might be worth investigating for similar reasons.
Thanks
May 15, 2008 12:46 PM
Blogger Big Dan said...
Hi Guys!
Nice Shot will work in your barrels without a shotcup, although a dash of graphite would keep any buildup of tin from forming.
#5 will work on smaller geese, a couple of my friends use it in there 20 gauges.
The hardness is 14.9~16.0 Brinell. A little harder than magnum lead shot.
As for the round ball for muzzle loaders. We are looking into manufacturing this in the near future but melting down the shot to cast round balls doesn't work well because the materials do not stay suspended evenly causing an out of balance ball.
Hope this answered your questions. If you have any more concerns, please post or contact me by email.
Thanks,
Dan
May 27, 2008 8:40 PM
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