So many of us are members of multiple forums under same or different "handles" become difficult for old men like me to keep upm with the same question in different forums, so maybe I already answered this.
My 1st venture into BP was mid 1970's after getting out of military.
Had this OLD man back then show me the ropes.
I've come to believe there is no real wrong way to do this (BP shooting), but some have had to venture into it blind. Face it, Cabelas, bass pro etc salesmen aren't going to be much help in teaching newbie.
And some people IMO go way over board on a simple sport. But to each his own I guess. I like to KISS!
So, problems with not going bang after cleaning or swabbing between shots.
I have never "popped" a cap beforehand just wasteful. If you thoroughly clean your weapon no need.
Even brand new needs cleaned.
The old man taught me to use rubbing alcohol, because out in the field hunting or at the range, hot soapy water just may not be available, but you can probably carry a small bottle of the R. A.
It's best to remove the barrel, but not absolutely necessary.
If brand new or used. lay a piece of innertube or leather etc on nipple, let hammer down on it.
Pour 3 to 4 oz RA down barrel, let soak a few minutes
to soften and dissolve oil / fouling.
Most all breech chambers are smaller than the bore and most flash holes are at the very bottom.
If you have a .50 cal, do not try to force a .50 cal brush to bottom, just asking to get it stuck,
use a .36 cal or such with a patch and / or a breech scraper for you rifle.
After you've worked the breech, slosh that RA up the barrel to soften crud there. Dump the excess into a small bowl / can.
1/2 cock the hammer pull nipple and cleanout screw.
Thoroughly brush / swab the bore and flash channel.
When clean if storing oil or not your choice.
Unless you are a purist as me, Use a synthetic if you want.
Plain machine oil / sewing machine oil/ gun oil works for me.
Using a jag or slotted tip and a natural fiber patch add just two or 3 drops oil, work it into the patch
swab it. You only want to leave a very light sheen.
I normally don't use oil though and never enough that it would run down to the breech or if upside down, out.
Now pipe cleaner the flash channel NO OIL.
coat the screw threads so won't seize.
check the nipple hole clear? good
coat the threads so don't seize
install both.
Wipe down exterior and store.
If going shooting no oil in the barrel at all.
I mostly use a very thin mixture of beeswax and lard on a patch now days to lube the barrel. So far no problems leaving it and just pouring powder in, for me.
Swabbing between shots. I've found not really necessary. Only if accuracy starts to suffer or can't get the ball down.
Then RA only. Moose milk and a lot of others, leave an oil residue behind that can clog the channel.
As a safety, you may want to remove the clean out screw and run a pipe cleaner or pick. I never have had to.
RA will evaporate pretty quickly,
Load
I have used BP, Pyro, T7 in all my guns with no ignition problems. Never used pellets though.
If you are having ignition problems with the subs
while it is a pain, try 5 to 10 gr real BP in first, then rest of load on top. BP does seem to ignite better.
Also in Percussion users after powder but before ball.
turn rifle sideway, nipple / lock side down, tap rifle on side to settle a bit of powder into the flash channel.
Flinters you can too or after priming pan, do same
but lock side up get the prime into the hole.
My apologies for the book,but the OP question was rather involved and required IMO a lengthy answer, trying to cover all aspects of his issues.
