Old T/C Renegade Tang Screw Question

[dchawken]

I recently bought an old T/C Renegade stock and lockn no barrel. When I stripped off the hardware to refinish it, I noticed the breech lug tang screws were just 1.25" wood screws, unlike my other guns (including an identical Renegade) where at least one screw goes all the way through the stock and engages threads in the trigger assembly.

This was clearly designed this way. The screws look original, and there's no way to screw a longer tang screw into the trigger assembly even if I could accurately drill a hole through the stock for a replacement.

Is this just an old design? It just seems pretty like a pretty light way to hold the breech lug down. Is safety an issue, or am I worried about nothing? :hmm:

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[roundball]

I recently bought an old T/C Renegade stock and lockn no barrel. When I stripped off the hardware to refinish it, I noticed the breech lug tang screws were just 1.25" wood screws, unlike my other guns (including an identical Renegade) where at least one screw goes all the way through the stock and engages threads in the trigger assembly.

This was clearly designed this way. The screws look original, and there's no way to screw a longer tang screw into the trigger assembly even if I could accurately drill a hole through the stock for a replacement.

Is this just an old design? It just seems pretty like a pretty light way to hold the breech lug down. Is safety an issue, or am I worried about nothing? :hmm:

Thanks for any thoughts.

Yes, the two wood screws are the old style...not a safety issue...a trend of splits in the wood opposite the lock mortise led to the improved, strengthened design of adding the front tang bolt down through the stock, through a corresponding hole in a redesigned trigger plate to pass the bolt through, and into a redesigned trigger guard drilled & tapped to receive the long tang bolt.

Some of my TC Hawkens are the old style, some the newer style...I just UPS'd a .54cal TC Hawken stock to TC yesterday as it was developing a hairline crack...they offered to completely replace the stock assembly of course, but the new replacement stocks have a shorter LOP which I didn't want, so they agreed to install the new tang bolt, trigger plate, and trigger guard in an attempt to prevent the hairline crack from getting worse...we'll see.

 

[dchawken]

Excellent, Thanks Roundball!

 

[rayb]

Yes, the two wood screws are the old style...not a safety issue...a trend of splits in the wood opposite the lock mortise ...I just UPS'd a .54cal TC Hawken stock to TC yesterday as it was developing a hairline crack...

Interesting. My 1982 vintage flint .54 Renegade developed a crack on the left side, went directly through the lock bolt bole hole on the left side. I glued and pinned the crack several years ago, but haven't shot it lately to see how it would hold up. If i understand your descriptions correctly, i have an "old style" stock. Will have to get it going again and see how the repair holds up. Good information, thanks for posting it.


rayb

 

[roundball]

Yes, the two wood screws are the old style...not a safety issue...a trend of splits in the wood opposite the lock mortise ...I just UPS'd a .54cal TC Hawken stock to TC yesterday as it was developing a hairline crack...

Interesting. My 1982 vintage flint .54 Renegade developed a crack on the left side, went directly through the lock bolt bole hole on the left side. I glued and pinned the crack several years ago, but haven't shot it lately to see how it would hold up. If i understand your descriptions correctly, i have an "old style" stock. Will have to get it going again and see how the repair holds up. Good information, thanks for posting it.

rayb

Yes, that whole central area of the stocks are very weak due to the amount of wood removed to accommodate the tang, lock, lock bolt, triggers, etc.

The crack usually follows the grain right through that area opposite the lock and angles up to the edge of the barrel bed...never understood why they won't do the relatively inexpensive "preventive" work for free BEFORE a stock cracks, but then they'll replace the entire expensive stock assembly AFTER it cracks at no cost.

The one on my Hawken runs along about 1/2" above the lock bolt hole...they'll replace the whole stock for you under lifetime warranty if you want...suggest you contact and only deal with Service Manager Tim Pancurak and send it directly to him if you decide to do it

 

[rayb]

[quote...they'll replace the whole stock for you under lifetime warranty if you want...[/quote]

SInce it was my first "stateside bought" muzzleloader rifle, i'll keep it. if the repair doesn't hold, i'll retire & replace the stock. barrel, etc still in great shape, shot well when last shot. Need more shooting time and less working time... but then doesn't everyone.


rayb