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Opinion on dog locks?

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Last time I talked to Jane at TRS she mentioned that COMPLETED locks were a year out.

I ordered a pre-carved stock (only) back on 04/05. Was supposed to be 2-3 weeks to ship. I followed up with an email on 04/27. The stock cutter was running a little behind, but hopefully ship the following week. Today, 06/03 still waiting. (I hope the pre-carve is usable :( ) Last one I received was good. Seems the quality of the pre-carved stocks are a hit or miss (?)

Rick
I'm thinking about doing just the cast parts. I hope you get your stock soon. I'm planning on using a different company for the stock. People seem not all that happy especially at $200+ on the ones I was looking at. I'm probably going to look into one that hasn't been carved for the lock but has the barrel and ramrod channels roughed in.
 
If the cast parts for the lock are "in stock", you should be good. Otherwise you may be waiting. That's a good idea with the stock. I bought a blank from Dunlaps Woodcrafts and sent it and the barrel to Pecatonica to have just the barrel and ramrod hole/groove cut. Turned out great.

Rick
 
If the cast parts for the lock are "in stock", you should be good. Otherwise you may be waiting. That's a good idea with the stock. I bought a blank from Dunlaps Woodcrafts and sent it and the barrel to Pecatonica to have just the barrel and ramrod hole/groove cut. Turned out great.

Rick
Nice. I'll keep them in mind. Was it a good price?
 
L
I was looking at the rifle shope, and the have some cool lock styles I didn't think I would find. I've always been interested in early types of firearms but the two I always have wanted are flintlocks and matchlocks. So I was on this sight and saw both of those but also dog locks.
So what's everyones opinion on them? Have any of you got experience in using them or building with one? I may be interested in building one but I still haven't built anything yet. I do have a book on making Kentucky long rifles on the way. Would that translate to one of these dog lock weapons if I ended up building one
[/QUote
Lot of people here having fits about a dog lock on a Kentucky Rifle. Personally I have bolted a lot of 350 Chevys into street rods made from early Fords. Period correct NO, historically accurate NO, who cares ?? If it looks cool, runs good, and makes you happy, BUILD IT 😃
Springerpanhead
 
Precarved stocks are sometimes “hit” but more often “miss”
West of the Mississippi Dave Rase cuts custom barrel channels and RR holes in your plank
That's good to know. I I think I may have decided on using the 12ga Fowler barrel from track of the wolf and they have an ok looking cherry stock blank with only the barrel channel and ram rod roughed in for an octagon to round barrel.
 
My latest addition is a Rifle Shop 1685 Cookson Doglock. I opted for the assembled lock with the components. It turned out to be a very robust gun, a little over 62 inches long and weighing 8 1/2 pounds with a 46 inch barrel in 10 gauge, it is heavy octagon at the breech, tapered to one wedding band and then round. The front sight is a brass face with the nose being the blade. If you never built a gun from the Rifle Shop, it is NOT a Kibler kit and expect to wait a year for it to ship. But they do offer some unique components packages. I will use this piece for my pre 1700 Ranger impression and my CT Provincial impression 1755. The stock is walnut and starts to show the familiar drop that we see in later fowlers. The lock and side plate are the 3 screw type and the last screw had to be floated a bit to clear the ramrod channel. The trigger guard and pipes are steel and the butt plate and side plate brass which was typical on some early New England guns. No entry pipe and no swell in the stock. The trigger guard is surface mounted and the butt plate nailed on. The butt plate itself is just simple thick sheet brass with a long plain tang. I like the end result, a simple early New England gun that will also be used for spring turkey next year.
I have a Cookson doglock and when doing the manual I had to reverse my right hand when pulling back the cock in order to engage the 'dog.' It took a little getting ' used to.'
 
I have a Cookson doglock and when doing the manual I had to reverse my right hand when pulling back the cock in order to engage the 'dog.' It took a little getting ' used to.'
Sounds pretty good.
 
Ive done a fair bit of TRS locks to say the least. Currently I have one I will be using on the next hand cannon. As well as 2 more on the way for a pair of coach guns, they were in stock when I ordered them last november. Maybe they will ship soon.

Probably the most important part when starting out is to have a mental visual of what you want as a simple "doglock" can go any number of directions. Once you have a good idea of what you want to build the rest begins to fall into place.

Here is a Danish doglock (note the lack of a screw on the cock) and Catalan Carbine I did with TRS lock castings.
IMG_20180524_205516161.jpg
 
Ive done a fair bit of TRS locks to say the least. Currently I have one I will be using on the next hand cannon. As well as 2 more on the way for a pair of coach guns, they were in stock when I ordered them last november. Maybe they will ship soon.

Probably the most important part when starting out is to have a mental visual of what you want as a simple "doglock" can go any number of directions. Once you have a good idea of what you want to build the rest begins to fall into place.

Here is a Danish doglock (note the lack of a screw on the cock) and Catalan Carbine I did with TRS lock castings.
View attachment 80054
Those look absolutely gorgeous. I'm thinking about putting together a "poor mans" musket. I'm going to use all cast iron furnishings if possible. I even found a fairly plain looking patch box lid kit and early Fowler butplate on track of the wolf mad in cast iron. I'm planning on using their plain cherry stock for their early Fowler 12ga barrels. It's going to be kind of a fantasy piece of what a poor man that got what he could with cheap and to some outdated parts, around 1760 is my arbitrary thought.
It'll be as plain as I can build her. No fancy engraving l, no brass or engraving except maybe initials on the patch box.
 
While on the subject of doglocks, I thought some would like to see this poor quality photo. This is the earliest doglock I've ever seen. Features carried over directly from the snaphaunce. It's mounted to a gun from the period.
I'm going to try and get this guy to take some GOOD photos of his gun, and especially the outside and inside of the lock. Just posted here for viewing pleasure.

Rick
Doglock 2.jpg
 
While on the subject of doglocks, I thought some would like to see this poor quality photo. This is the earliest doglock I've ever seen. Features carried over directly from the snaphaunce. It's mounted to a gun from the period.
I'm going to try and get this guy to take some GOOD photos of his gun, and especially the outside and inside of the lock. Just posted here for viewing pleasure.

RickView attachment 80060
Nice. Around what year do you think that weapon was built? Or do neither of you have a good approximate time
 
Back to the heavy trigger pull - your question was if I find it a hindrance? Absolutely that degrades accuracy. But it's a blast for the 4th of July and New Year's!
That's good to know. I bet it is. Do you load yours with shot/ round balls and fire at targets, or just powder for a cool way to celebrate the holidays?
 
If loading with simply powder and wanting some amazing pictures try to use a very small (maybe 30 grains in a 75 cal) of cannon grade unpacked and unwadded. The small charge is very quiet and with a longer exposure the cannon grade burns slower.

DSC_4133.JPG
 
If loading with simply powder and wanting some amazing pictures try to use a very small (maybe 30 grains in a 75 cal) of cannon grade unpacked and unwadded. The small charge is very quiet and with a longer exposure the cannon grade burns slower.

View attachment 80076
Well that's definitely impressive. I don't know it id do that. I was wondering what one of the other guys does.
Where did you do that by the way?
 
Ive done a fair bit of TRS locks to say the least. Currently I have one I will be using on the next hand cannon. As well as 2 more on the way for a pair of coach guns, they were in stock when I ordered them last november. Maybe they will ship soon.

Probably the most important part when starting out is to have a mental visual of what you want as a simple "doglock" can go any number of directions. Once you have a good idea of what you want to build the rest begins to fall into place.

Here is a Danish doglock (note the lack of a screw on the cock) and Catalan Carbine I did with TRS lock castings.
View attachment 80054
how is the cock held on?
 
Same as a snaphaunce, the cock goes thru the tumbler and is pinned on the inside. I also have an early original dutch transition lock where the tumbler has a stud that comes out and a nut on the outside holds it on.
 
Unless one is very familiar with what makes a good lock and a lousy lock, is adequate at machinist tasks, has a drill press and a jig set up for drilling lockplates and parts, and has experience heat treating steel for either tool or spring hardness, I would not advise building a lock from sets of castings. One needs to know how to tune a lock to build a lock from castings. All this on a first gun sounds like far too much to take on unless the needed wood and metal working skills are well developed and will be easily transferred to gun building. There are hundreds of little tasks that require knowledge and experience. No one book covers it all. Trying to learn by asking on a forum is like asking 20 different bakers how to make bread.
 

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