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paper patching bullets

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The small bore rifles tend to choke up quickly. I hated to waste caps on a clearing cap after wip the bore but my l40’s, with the exception of a Gibbs are lined and bored TC barrel and those breeches foul badly.
 
Yep, I've been tempted to try a fast twist barrel to use .358 diameter molds but cleaning the fouling is a thought that gives me pause. Oh well, I've got a heavy boat tail spire point .45 mold that will probably keep me pulling my hair out for quite a while trying paper patches, cards, corn meal and whatever else comes to mind. I'll have something to do besides a .358.
 
Interesting.......
The very competitive BPCRs in .358 are useing very fast twist rates 11:1 10:1. A muzzle loader with those twists would be difficult to load I would think.
 
Just a pain to clean. It seems as though the smaller the bore, getting the bore clean is nothing compared to making sure the ignition channel doesn't have some last bit of moisture laden fouling that can make your day with a pop sans boom.
 
At the expense of not reading all the replies in this thread, I only have this to say, in terms of patched conical(s).

Refer to Idaho Lewis and Idaho Ron's threads.
 
I enjoy the task of paper patching. It adds another dimension to casting. Better still, in my muskets at close range, mainly 50 metres mind, occasionally 100, the patched minies show an accuracy advantage from my Parker Hale '53 and '58. The '58 prefers the heavier minie (here's a pic of a couple I recovered from the berm). Two wraps of 9 pound onion paper (.002) applied moist and allowed to dry thoroughly, shrinking to the ball does the job.

Pete

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Interesting.......
The very competitive BPCRs in .358 are useing very fast twist rates 11:1 10:1. A muzzle loader with those twists would be difficult to load I would think.
not so much. My .40’s are 1:16 and 1:14 twists. It’s not noticeable really but the bullets are a slip fit to the bore.
 
At the expense of not reading all the replies in this thread, I only have this to say, in terms of patched conical(s).

Refer to Idaho Lewis and Idaho Ron's threads.
That fifty bore paper patched hollow base bullet that Idaho Lewis used in his 48" twist Thompson Center, that was an awesome bit of engineering.
 


not so much. My .40’s are 1:16 and 1:14 twists. It’s not noticeable really but the bullets are a slip fit to the bore.
Yes sir, my Ed Rayl .40 isn't at all hard to accurately load with lubed lead, paper patched or with bullets mechanically fitted with the rifling engraved upon them.
40GPR_310GR FP_70 FFg.jpg

Unfortunately the regulators of the state I presently reside in think that their deer will succumb to no less than a .44 so the rifle perforates only tomato cans.
 
The Chase Method is a single wrap and I know that there are some shooters out there that use this system, but not many. I would like to hear from some "newbies" who will try this single wrap system. I think, if done right, would really be surprised how it would improve their group of paper patching.
I have Chase patched before with both muzzleloaders and breechloaders. It works very well.
 
Don't be afraid to try different paper as well. Just another very important variable.

I wrap my paper dry and with no lube. Size the bullet after it is wrapped.

Fleener
I've been experimenting with parchment cooking paper on a .303 SMLE I picked up. So far I haven't worked out the right combo for decent accuracy. They were tumbling at 50 yards ! I cut the mold blocks myself and apparently have not got the right portions of shape, balance and diameters on the bullet body for the parchment paper to work.
Sure is interesting but the tumbling sure makes me scratch my bald head ! I'm wondering if I should perhaps muzzle load them ?😄
 
I tried parchment paper, and I could not get it to work either.

Fleener
 
I used to do a bit of Picture framing. I used to seal the back of some frames with Brown paper. Stick it down loose, then a light squirt with water and it would shrink to become tight like a Drum. Maybe worth a try on PP.
 
I used to do a bit of Picture framing. I used to seal the back of some frames with Brown paper. Stick it down loose, then a light squirt with water and it would shrink to become tight like a Drum. Maybe worth a try on PP.
Wet patching is quite commonly done, and as you say the paper dries and shrinks back to a snug fit. What is wanted though is for the rifling to shear the paper, so that it falls away from the bullet as it leaves the barrel.

David
 
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