Patch or lube issue

[TarponStalker]

Can all y’all come to Florida tomorrow? I’m sure between us we can figure this out. I promise we will practice social distance or whatever they call it. Someone needs to bring a few .535 round balls.

 

[Rodd Boyer]

I have some patches that look eerily similiar.... out of a Bobby Hoyt round bottom rifled barrel. I'll try the sand paper trick as well... same red striped pillow ticking.
Thx!

 

[bigted]

My GPR did this to its patch's. Then I sanded the muzzle nice n round. Followed by tight patch's coated with fine automobile valve grinding compound down and up 50 times.

No more torn or shredded patch's. Accuracy improved and cleaning became a snap. .535 ball, .018 washed AND dried pillow ticking and 80 grains Old E 2 F powder. Great rifle and load. I have never shot a 54 that didn't like this load.

Good luck and have fun sanding. I began with 150 grit to get the shape I wanted followed by 220 grit taking the larger sanding lines out followed with 400 grit to reduce the marks further followed by 800 grit for the same reason and to begin the polished smoothnes followed by 1500 grit for the finished polish.

I did exactly like Zonie describes ... rolling the barrel across my bench with my left hand and sanding with my right. Works great. Found that a towel taped to the bench for rolling across was a huge help.

I do not like the shiny muzzle so I did use cold blue and polished this with my rough towels and repeat till it became a polished semi case hardened look in an antique style.

Came out pretty nice ... very happy with it ... but alas ... SIL liked it a bunch so when I left Alaska ... it stayed with him.

 

[BruceHH]

Others have given good advice, but I will follow through with this - make sure your patch material does not have any synthetic blend in it. If you got it at someplace like Walmart, there is a good chance it does. You really have to watch/read the label on the bulk material. Some will say Cotton, until you read the fine print.

 

[TarponStalker]

Others have given good advice, but I will follow through with this - make sure your patch material does not have any synthetic blend in it. If you got it at someplace like Walmart, there is a good chance it does. You really have to watch/read the label on the bulk material. Some will say Cotton, until you read the fine print.

Thanks BruceHH. I always get my patch material from a fabric store. Hopefully they know what they’re selling but I won’t bet a ton on that either. It says cotton anyway.

 

[Rodd Boyer]

Thanks BruceHH. I always get my patch material from a fabric store. Hopefully they know what they’re selling but I won’t bet a ton on that either. It says cotton anyway.

I get mine from Joanne's.... says 100% cotton.

 

[Grenadier1758]

JoAnn's is good. Especially the #40 cotton drill cloth has always been 100% cotton. JoAnn's also has linen100% from flax. This fabric might be imported and a looser weave than I would prefer but will fill out when washed and dried at a hot setting.

 

[Siringo]

I’m still having problems with my patches fired from my Kibler .54 Colonial. IF I am able to locate the spent patch it’s usually still smoldering and shredded to pieces. I thought maybe due to my patch material being old so I bought new pillow ticking and pocket drill. That didn’t help.

I use Mr Flintlock lube with a .530 ball over 70-80 grns if FFg. I’ve tried running Scotchbrite down the barrel to cleanup any sharp edges. I haven’t tried smoothing the lands at the muzzle yet. Maybe it’s getting cut there.
It seems like a spit patch doesn’t burn up as bad as patches lubed with Mr Flintlock. Some of these are actually burning if I find them.
I have shot this rifle about 60 times so far.

Sorry to ramble on with this. I wanted to let everyone know all factors involved.
Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try?View attachment 27518View attachment 27520

I have the same rifle and caliber as you. You state you are using FFG powder. My question is what brand? Old Eynsdord, Swiss or standard Goex?

 

[Okie Hog]

It has nothing to do with patch lube. Your patches are being destroyed by sharp rifling. Do as Zonie recommends and your problem will go away.

 

[EC121]

Sometimes before sanding I just roll the edges with a lightly applied needle file. Heck, I have even used my chainsaw file on my .60 &.62cal. rifles. Then I polish with the sandpaper. IMO The rifling on Rice barrels is too deep. People think they need that deep rifling. So Jason makes it for them. For loading in the woods you end up needing a thicker patch to fill the grooves and smaller ball to ease the loading. All we are trying to do is spin the ball. It doesn't take a .016" groove to do that. I got beat plenty of times by people shooting Douglas and Montana barrels with .004 to .008" rifling.

 

[Buckskinn]

I had same issue with my 54 caliber which was a Jim Chambers - Edward Marshall. Muzzle was not cutting patch. I ended up using slightly thicker patch material (ticking) and upped the amount of Ballistol in my Moose Milk and that did the trick, no more shredded or smoldering patches. Still using same .530 ball and can reuse patch now.

 

[Pete G]

IMO Patch too thin.

 

[jager43478]

Your barrel is a premium barrel and doesn't need Scothbright or any other abrasives in it. How thick are your patches? A tight dry patch won't burn like these so try a tighter patch with a dampness to them. I've never used Mr. Flintlock lube but it has a good reputation which makes me think your load is too loose.

Try TOTW mink oil and thicker pillow ticking. Sound like the charge is blowing by the ticking and causing it to burn.

 

[slow]

Try putting something between the powder and patch cornmeal or cream of wheat works.

 

[Britsmoothy]

This is what I would do and it's quite predictable.
I would throw that lubricant in the trash.
Melt some bees wax and add olive oil untill I was happy with the set.
No beeswax, no problem. Melts some beef fat. No beef fat....ok melt a candle and add olive oil.
If I still had a problem with patches rubbed in that lube I would send down the bore a bare patch first and then the patched ball.

 

[TarponStalker]

I have the same rifle and caliber as you. You state you are using FFG powder. My question is what brand? Old Eynsdord, Swiss or standard Goex?

Goex.

 

[Tom Compton]

GM .54 barrel, .535 ball, .018” cotton patch, MAP, 60 gr FFg 25-50 yds for range or trail walk. 90 gr for 100 yds and Texas deer and Hogs. Carry .530 in bag for the not yet needed second shot.

That loose weave ticking is what I use in .40 pistol w 20 gr. Not good for much else.

 

[TarponStalker]

I got a chance to shoot a few times today. Here’s an update.
I first started by lightly sanding the muzzle area. (I’m gonna do more of this tonight).
I pushed a patched ball about an inch down the bore and pulled it out. No visible damage to patch.
I first loaded with the same ticking and lube. Patch destroyed.
I then tried ticking with some lube I made with olive oil and beeswax. Patch destroyed and burning. Next I tried some denim I had. Very hard to load. Patch also destroyed. Not as bad but torn up. I think y’all that suggested to sand the sharp edges down have the answer.
I assume the patches are tearing then the torn edges are easier to catch fire causing the burning patches.
BTW I don’t soak the patches with lube but they are damp through both sides. This is a hunting rifle so I have to lube accordingly.
Thanks for the responses and advice. I’ll keep trying and let you all know.

 

[TarponStalker]

I forgot one other thing. I had three precut ox yoke patches. They too were destroyed.

 

[bldtrailer]

DEHUM .020 (10 oz joan fabric) mutton lube and try an under sized jag on your rod . when I use a .50 jag my patches got cut .45 now great