Patch or lube issue

[TarponStalker]

I'm going to ask the very dumb but obvious question here.
Theres no way you bought that Kibler as a 54 and he sent out a 58 is there? Is all that gas blowing past a 54 ball and thick patch in a 58 barrel?

I doubt it as the .535 ball and patch are tight. But I have some RB from my .58 that old try just for fun. Good thinking though.

 

[Crow-Feather]

Just an update. One of the generous members on this site sent me some .535 round balls to try. While they shot just fine my patches are still shredded.
Im hesitant to add more lube as I see others do. I don’t want a wet patch on top of powder that may be loaded fir a day or more when I’m hunting.
I just got a tin of Mink oil to try. I doubt this will cure everything but I wanted to try it.
ive changed powder charges from 70-90 grains. No difference.
I’m gonna try steel wool in the bore again as I still have small holes in a circle around the patch. I’ve tried smoothing the muzzle already. I also loaded a ball two inches then pulled it out. No damage there. As for a firewall I did try a patch over the powder. That really didn’t do much.
I’ll keep trying but thought I’d keep y’all informed if you’re interested. Thanks again.View attachment 29491View attachment 29492

Is that patch Pillow Ticking? It does look like a loose weave. Remember when using Ticking, to wash it about 3-4 times to get the sizing out of it.

 

[TarponStalker]

More updates. I think we have a winner! For those who recommended a fire wall, yes that worked. No matter what I tried my patches were destroyed. Friday I tried about a half teaspoon of cornmeal on top of 80 grains of FFg. Followed by a .530 ball with pocket drill patch lubed with Mink oil. The patches came out much better. Even the pillow ticking patches were fine.
I do have to admit I hate having to carry one more item when I shoot but at least I know it helps I’ll probably use it more for long term hunting loads Thanks again for everyone’s help

 

[Rodd Boyer]

Here's the main question...... how does it group?

 

[M. De Land]

I’m still having problems with my patches fired from my Kibler .54 Colonial. IF I am able to locate the spent patch it’s usually still smoldering and shredded to pieces. I thought maybe due to my patch material being old so I bought new pillow ticking and pocket drill. That didn’t help.

I use Mr Flintlock lube with a .530 ball over 70-80 grns if FFg. I’ve tried running Scotchbrite down the barrel to cleanup any sharp edges. I haven’t tried smoothing the lands at the muzzle yet. Maybe it’s getting cut there.
It seems like a spit patch doesn’t burn up as bad as patches lubed with Mr Flintlock. Some of these are actually burning if I find them.
I have shot this rifle about 60 times so far.

Sorry to ramble on with this. I wanted to let everyone know all factors involved.
Does anyone have any ideas on what I can try?View attachment 27518View attachment 27520

Try some winter grade windshield wash fluid for patch lube. Saturate them, wring them out in your fingers before loading then load and shoot. They keep fouling from building up quite well by themselves. I"ve never found anything better as it is comprised of all friendly to BP fouling ingredients , water, liquid soap and alcohol. The best patch material I have found after trying most everything including Teflon cloth is shirt felt I get from my worn out Cabella's felt work shirts. It runs about .018 thick but is tight weave and never cuts through.
It's far better than pillow ticking or drill cloth for ball patches.

 

[Newtire]

I have.

Yeah, me too! I started using .480” round balls after watching a guy use them on YouTube. This is with the .020” daisy patches. Does it in a Wesson Replica and a CVA mountain rifle in .54 using .520” balls and even a .45 Bondini target rifle using .440” balls. Methinks it is probably the ball size being too small as it burns and shreds the patches even using light powder charges.
Am going to try larger diameter balls to see if that helps. I never used to have this problem using .495 or even .490” in my old TC “Hawken”.

 

[Darkhorse]

I don't think your patching material is up to snuff. From the photo's the weave looks to be very loose compared to the material I use. Also, it's very possible you're cutting the patch near the muzzle.
If it was me this is what I'd do......First. Is check for cutting.
Start and seat your ball and patch lubed with Mr. Flintlocks, (good stuff. I use it too.) DO NOT cut the material, instead stand the rifle up, grab some patch on both sides and yank to pop the ball out. Examine the patch for cuts. If you have some sharp grooves you can either lap the bore to remove them or you can shoot the gun enough to dull those sharp edges. Takes at least 100 shots.
Now go to this link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18-1-1-2-W...036850?hash=item3f86d4dd32:g:FckAAOSwRNhbtmyd
This is eastern maine shooting supplies ebay site. Buy a bag of this unlubed material and try it in your rifle. I now buy all my patching from these people as the material is tightly woven and tough. I sometimes shoot the .010 patch with no tearing or burn through.
Lube it generously with Mr. Flintlocks. You may want to tear up a wasp nest into small pieces and dribble a layer between powder and lubed, patched ball. This is to absorb excess lube before it taints your powder supply.
Try this and post your results. Remember, only test one thing at a time or else you will get mixed up.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Tarpon,
the only thing I can see that you didn’t try is a .005” undersized ball, and a .020” patch with a liquid lube. Stop going through all these contortions! I promise it will work. (And you won’t have to run cleaning patches.)