Pedersoli cocking issue

[eli crowe]

Hello all,
Looking for a little help. I took the barrel off my Pedersoli Dixie Cub,stripped the blue and browned the barrel.
When I got it back together,I tried to cock it and can't get it to cock on half cock or full cock.
The lock will cock out of the rifle but when it goes back in the rifle,no go. Anybody ever have this problem and whats the fix. Appreciate any help.
Thanks

 

[Black Hand]

The lock internals are probably rubbing on the wood (tumbler, sear etc.) or the trigger is depressing the sear bar so the sear doesn't engage in either half- or full-cock.

 

[LRB]

The moving parts are either contacting wood, or the lock is warping when you tighten it down, or both. I would put my money on wood contact. Use a transfer color of some sort, smoke it with a candle, or wipe lipstick on the all the parts, install the lock, then take it back out and see.

 

[mazo kid]

I agree with the others....gotta be contact, probably between the sear and the stock. Try loosening the sidelock screws a quarter of a turn at a time and see if the lock will cock. My long-range W.A.G. is that the arm of the sear is contacting the stock and the hole will need to be a tad deeper. Emery

 

[paulvallandigham]

I agree with all. YOu may have tightened those stock screw and lock plate screw down too tightly. Back them out. They should hold the lock to the mortise, firmly, but should not crush wood. Mark the stock next to the screw slots to tell you were to stop turning them, and you will avoid this kind of problem in the future. Make sure the trigger is forward when you tip the lock plate into the stock. I also like the hammer down so that there is no tension on the mainspring, when putting the lock back into its mortise.

 

[eli crowe]

I tried backing out the screws,that doesn't help.The other strange thing is that if I pull the set trigger then I get both half cock and full cock.I don't know if that narrows the problem down or not. If there is contact with wood and the Sear,how is that corrected?

 

[silverfox]

All the above are good advise. I had a rifle that was also not holding in either half of full cock. and the problem with it was someone had the trigger assembly set so deep that the trigger wouldn't allow the sear to engage. Had to shim the trigger assembly a little and then all works well. Keep looking and you will find the answer.
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[pa woods roamer]

Not to Hijack your thread, but I was thinking of taking my Wife`s Dixie Cub apart and Browning the Barrel. Is it hard to remove the pins and take the Barrel out?? Just curious, but did you tighten any screws on the lock? Sometimes that will mess things up?

 

[Dphar]

If you like browned barrels by all means brown them. But blued barrels are HC too.

Dan

 

[Dphar]

I tried backing out the screws,that doesn't help.The other strange thing is that if I pull the set trigger then I get both half cock and full cock.I don't know if that narrows the problem down or not. If there is contact with wood and the Sear,how is that corrected?

Its hard to make a proper rifle for what they charge for these. I would check the trigger plate depth. Then see if the set triggers have a stop (usually the trigger mainspring hits the trigger plate) that prevents the rear trigger from bearing on the sear when unset. There can be a lot of slack and the triggers will still fire the lock, its done with inertia in a properly set up trigger. Does not sound like it has a stop for the spring or its not properly adjusted or its inlet too deep. In either case it is not safe and needs to be fixed.


Dan

 

[eli crowe]

Leadslinger,

I was a little concerned about taking a pinned rifle apart myself but there was really nothing to it. There is only one pin holding the barrel in and one pin through the nosecap into the barrel.

I just took a small finishing nail a little smaller than the pins and took the point of the nail off with a dremel and used that to tap the pins out.This was a tip I got fron Zonie a while back,Thanks Zonie. Take those two pins and the tang screw out and the barrel comes right out.

No, I didn't tighten any screws up on the lock so thats not the problem. I don't know what the deal is it was working fine before I took the barrel out.Like I said before the strange thing is that I can pull the set trigger before I cock it and everyting is good.

Dan Pharis, I know Blueing is HC on some rifles but I have always liked the looks of a Browned Barrel and besides when I got this rifle it had a Browned Lock and a Blued barrel,just didn't look right.

Thanks all for the tips so far.

 

[Jumpshot]

Try holding the triggers forward when you install the lock.

 

[eli crowe]

The Trigger Plate depth appears to be what the problem was. I tinkered with the Trigger Guard that controls the depth of the Trigger Plate.I found that if I loosened the Trigger Guard with the Hammer down the Trigger Guard had to be real loose in order to set the Half Cock and Full Cock but when I tightened the Trigger Guard with the Hammer on Full Cock I could tighten the Trigger Guard and get the Half Cock and Full Cock to set.

Not sure that makes sense to me but it seems to work O.K. now. The other thing I don't understand is that I didn't do anything to the Trigger Guard when I took the Barrel out to Brown and everything worked fine before I took the barrel out.The Tang Screw which goes into the Trigger Plate had to be taken out so apparently that had something to do with it. Thank you Dan and all the rest of you for the tips.

 

[keith44]

Sorry to come in so late, since all seems to be working, do nothing further, but check it prior to hunting with it. If the problem re-occurs, however, try removing the entire trigger and guard assembly, then with the lock plate installed in the stock try to cock it and see if the problem still exists. If the problem is still there, you'll have to clear the wood away from the action in the lock plate area. If the problem is not present with the trigger, and guard removed, re install the trigger plate with out the guard and re-test. If the problem is there at this point, the trigger is binding on something, and will have to be cleared. Be it metal polishing, wood removal or what ever. If the problem only occurs with the trigger guard installed, you'll have to bend the guard to fit with less tension to the trigger plate, and / or space the trigger plate so that there is less tension pulling on the trigger plate.

Keith

 

[paulvallandigham]

Again, Be very careful when you reinstall any screw that you don't screw it in too hard. That tang bolt screwing into the trigger plate most definitely did have something to do with how the triggers functioned. And, I suspect that when you put that bolt back in, you gave it an extra half turn " for good measure ", pulling the trigger up too close to the sear to allow the sear to work properly.

Don't feel badly about any of this. You now know more about your gun than you did before, and what you learned will help you for as long as you own the gun, and maybe help someone else you meet having similar problems. We all learn from our mistakes, and learn more from other people's mistakes. That is one of the good things about this forum.

The next time you are into the stock, you might want to consider giving all that bare wood a coating of stock finish to seal it from moisture. Same with the barrel channel, and even under the buttplate.

 

[mazo kid]

Good advise Paul. I was just about to comment on the possibility of over-tightening the tang screw when I read the last few posts here. Perhaps a thin metal or cardboard shim under the trigger plate will alleviate the problem? Emery

 

Your experience may not be so strange. I have several rifles, including originals, that require the set trigger to be set before the hammer will cock.
Mark

 

[BOR]

I am haveing problems with cocking my TC Hawken. I removed trigger plate,& lock plate to lube them. Used gun grease very lightly. Reassembaled, now gun goes to half cock only. Removed lock palte, cocked out of stock, it still will only go to half cock. There is a small teardrop shaped piece with a short pin on the back. This part will not let hammer go to full cock. I removed it & hammer will go to full cock but I don't trust it to stay there. Any advise? I have tried all the answers given to others about problams with cocking to no effect.

 

[paulvallandigham]

The little piece you refer to sounds like the " Fly. " If it can be put in backwards, that is what you have done. To correct, flip that little triangle piece over and then put it back in the tumbler, and keep it there with the bridle. If that doesn't correct the problem, then send the entire lock back to the T/C, and they will fix it for you.

 

[BEP]

Grease in a lock's workings can do interesting things also. Especially when there's a fly involved. Try removing that grease and re-lubricate with a light oil and see if it helps. Because you don't say anything in your post about disassembling the lock, only greasing it. If that's the only thing that changed, undo the change and see if it fixes things. Good luck.

sneezy