Pedersoli Owners

[ncmtmike]

Tell me a little about breaking one down to clean:
(1) Does it have wedges or pins?
(2) Is the breech hooked or straight?
(3) can said pins/wedges be difficult to remove and install?
Thinking of getting one in Flintlock,want to know what I am getting into. Thanks in Advance!

 

[pargent]

I don't remove the barrels from any of my long arms for cleaning , pinned or wedges .

 

[Parzifal]

I also do not remove my barrels for cleaning.

After I get a new arm I generally smear a bit of high pressure grease on the underside of the barrel.

Then I re assemble and don't worry about it, after a few years shooting a arm I have taken the barrels off and I have not found rust, so I find it to be a simple solution that really works.

 

[anj4de]

Apart from not having to break it down everytime for cleaning this also depends on what Pedersoli gun you have. Pedersoli has rifles with pins and wedges in their cataloge. On a proper Hawken, taking out the barrel is a piece of cake, on a long rifle with pins and a fixed tang...well not so easy.

cheers
Uwe

 

[Alden]

And bands, don't forget barrel bands.

I also do not remove my barrels for cleaning...

 

[Grenadier1758]

My rifles with wedges, I will pull the barrels to clean. The rifles and fowlers with pins, the barrels are not removed. I block the touch hole and fill the barrel with water to loosen the fouling. Maybe a drop or two of Murphy's Oil Soap or mild detergent will help to loosen the fouling. Once the cleaning liquid runs clear, I clean with patches. After the patches come clean I wipe with water displacement (WD-40 or alcohol)patches and finish with a well lubricated patch for rust protection.

There's really no need to remove a pinned barrel for cleaning.

 

[ncmtmike]

Thank You soooo much,,makes things easier :bow:

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Pedersoli long guns may have pins (my "trade gun" has them as does the bess), may have wedges (as does my caplock SxS), and may even have machine screws (as does the Blue Ridge Hunter aka Frontier).

I un-pin the barrels once a year to check for rust, and the same was true when I owned a BRH. The gun with the wedge I remove the barrels every time I clean as that was the design. The gun with the wedge is also a hooked breech, while the rest are plain breeched.

The wedge is easy, though the pins can be difficult to remove. I like to use a brass punch, not a steel one.

LD

 

[Grenadier1758]

My Derringer rifle replica has wedges but the breech plug is threaded to the barrel. That rifle barrel remains in the stock as if it were pinned.

 

[hanshi]

I don't remove the barrels for cleaning, either. I do the same thing as BessBattleSystem does.

 

[kurts]

I do all the cleaning done above plus when i'm done I use the air compressor and blow down each side of the barrel channel from breach forward to push the water out.

kurt

 

[pargent]

Just clean you muzzleloaders the old way , pick a routine that suites you and you should get 250 years life out of your gun .

 

[Clovis]

The Cabela's Blue Ridge I bought some time ago has screws, small screws that are removed through the ramrod thimbles and a large screw at the rear of the tang. This one screws into the trigger assembly piece. I used to take the barrel out every time I shot the gun but found that after the reassembly it would shoot differently at times. Now I only remove the lock and leave the barrel in and clean with a tube clamped to the touch hole. Now it seems to stay fairly accurate. Hope that helps.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I have 3 rifles with wedges and hooked breeches. It's just way too easy to tap out that wedge and remove the barrel for a thorough cleaning :thumbsup:

My other rifles don't lend themselves to easy barrel removal, but I have a siphon hose fitting that allows for quick and complete bore cleaning.

 

[stinkyfeet]

If its the frontier or pretty much any other long rifle by them remove the ram rod, unscrew thimbles,unscrew tang screw,the barrel comes right out stick in sink.

 

[Rob Dorsey]

Hey,
Neither do I remove the barrel for cleaning. When I was taught to shoot BP sometime in the late 16th century (actually the early 60's) I was shown a setup I use to today. I make up a two foot length of surgical hose with a 1/4"28 little nipple stuck in the end and a 1/4" SS nut screwed onto the other end to act as a weight. Remove the flash hole plug (probably requires removing the lock) and screw in the nipple. Drop the nut and hose into a pail of warm to hot soapy water, put a good and thick patch on your jag and push it all the way down. Then you withdraw the rod slowly and, like a syringe, it will suck up a barrel's worth of soapy water. Let it sit for as few seconds and then expel the water and man, you will expel the blackest, dirtiest water you have seen. Do this over and over (may require a fresh pail of water if your piece is really dirty) until the water runs clear.

Then you can abandon the hose setup and dry the barrel with clean patches followed by the ubiquitous oiled patch and you are done. I'm using my hose and nipple rig from the eighties so they last well. Not as much trouble as it may sound and works super-well.

Just my idea, your mileage may vary,
Rob - Kentucky

 

[Baxter]

"Flintlock flush kit" from TOW works well for me, along with properly-sized bore mops, one for scrubbing, one for drying (alcohol or WD-40) and one for oiling - all washed and dried after use. baxter

 

[nwtradegun]

my brn bess cleans up fat. undersize jag with 0000 steel woo; wrapped around run it down barrl 6 or so time dump out soot . swab with cleaning patch soaked in water and soap dry and oil the bore, clean as if it were new, you can also use scottbrit pad cut to size

 

[hobowonkanobe]

Kind of a "loaded question" (sorry, had to) seeings as I have 2 Perd.s one is an 1803 Haprers ferry and the other a Howdah. But? Nah, I keep it together for basic (field cleaning) and 2x a year I do a full break down cleaning. The 1803 has a wedge, a tang screw and a lock screw.
The Howdah has a foregrip wedge.