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Pedersoli Rocky Mountains Hawken
- Thread starter PreglerD
- Start date
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Kirrmeister, you just missed a brand new one on Gunbroker auction. It was very nice looking and it went for $690 dollars. Which is a very fair price. I think they would be great guns for deer hunting. With the cost of a custom Hawken being much more than that. In fact just a parts kit from Track of the wolf or Don Stith is more than that.
I think the DP Rocky Mountain Hawken is a very good hunting rifle. Very accurate but heavy a little. It has the same barrel as DP Tryon rifle. Over all quality is excellent. You can use heavy charges: 90-100gr Swiss.
But how lucky? I don't know.
But how lucky? I don't know.
A very well made rifle, fit and finish are excellent. I like the german silver front sight, in the early dawn it can get hard to see at times.
At 75 yards, off the bench, with 80 grains of 2f it will keep five shots inside a silver dollar.
In Texas almost hunting is from box blinds. Loading the rifle in the blind can be a bit of problem with the length of the barrel. Barrel length is the only negative that I have with the rifle.
I replaced the wood ramrod with a brass ramrod. I personallly will not use a wood ramrod.
If I did not have one,I would buy one.
It is has become my preferred hunting rifle.
RDE
At 75 yards, off the bench, with 80 grains of 2f it will keep five shots inside a silver dollar.
In Texas almost hunting is from box blinds. Loading the rifle in the blind can be a bit of problem with the length of the barrel. Barrel length is the only negative that I have with the rifle.
I replaced the wood ramrod with a brass ramrod. I personallly will not use a wood ramrod.
If I did not have one,I would buy one.
It is has become my preferred hunting rifle.
RDE
paulvallandigham
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MLers should be loaded before going to a blind. Not primed, or capped, of course, but loaded. That insures the main powder charge is loaded in a dry barrel. Since hunting with a MLer is a ONE-SHOT deal, RELOADING in the blind, IMHO, is also not an issue.
There is no good reason NOT to use a wooden ramrod, if you use a good one- no grain runout-- and you use the hand over hand method of pushing the rod and PRB down the barrel. The lower hand remains at the muzzle and is used as a muzzle guide to keep the stick( ramrod) straight, and away from the sides of the muzzle as it is pushed down by the upper hand, which grabs the stick no more than 8 inches above the lower hand.
That technique keep you from rubbing wood off against even a sharp, squared crowned muzzle, and keeps you from breaking any wood Ramrod.
I made a heavy wood loading rod for my 12 gauge shotgun, because the factory one was worse than totally inadequate, and had grain run-out. The stick is about 8 inches longer than my barrels, and wears a large Doorknob shaped handle I turned out of a block of walnut on a friend's lathe. At the other end of the stick, I glued and pinned a commercial ferrule, tapped for 10-32 threaded fittings. I bought a properly sized cleaning jag. That rod is NOT carried in the gun, but goes into the field with me, carried down my back. The jag is placed behind my belt. The top is centered on my spine, and is held by the weight of my possible's bag and its strap over my shoulder. The "doorknob" rides above my head, but when hunting birds in open fields it poses no obstruction to movement. If I were making a ramrod up for use when hunting in woods country, say- with my fowler or rifles-- instead of the large Doorknob handle, I would make up a skinner, longer, straight handle, like you see on files, and shorten the rod enough that the stick would not be above my head, but long enough to clean and load the barrel. On really long barreled guns, I would simply carry the rod laying it along side the barrel, and held with one or both hands. I had to carry my Ramrod out side the pipes one day deer hunting, as the wood had swollen after being out in fog, rain, and mist all day, and I could not get the RR back into the stock of the gun. It worked out just fine.
I prefer to remove the stick from the gun's pipe, anyway, when on a stand, and place the rod with the Jag down, leaning against a tree or other structure at hand, so that I can get the stick into the muzzle with a minimum of movement of either the rod or my hands.
And Up-and-down movement done this way can be hidden behind even a small tree, where an arcing sweep of the stick as its removed from the pipes under the barrel( along with the noise that often accompanies such a move) will alert, and scare not only game, but other small critters in the woods, that will give out alarm calls.
I am not against using metal rods for ramrods in any gun. Other than that 12 gauge shotgun, the other guns have both wooden ramrods, and Metal "Range rods". I do all the loading of these guns at the range, or at my car when loading them for a hunt, with the range rods. The wooden rods are only used to clean and reload in the field. They are more quiet to use, and do not give off alarming " clanks" like metal rods do in the woods.
One benefit that you might want to consider, particularly with a large caliber, shorter barrel gun is that the weight of a solid brass RR will help steady the muzzle and front sight when bringing the sights to bear on game, shooting off-hand. Its of lesser importance if you either have a shooting stick, or use standing rests when shooting at game in the woods, but that extra weight under the barrel can be very helpful in fighting off " Buck Fever ".
:hatsoff:
There is no good reason NOT to use a wooden ramrod, if you use a good one- no grain runout-- and you use the hand over hand method of pushing the rod and PRB down the barrel. The lower hand remains at the muzzle and is used as a muzzle guide to keep the stick( ramrod) straight, and away from the sides of the muzzle as it is pushed down by the upper hand, which grabs the stick no more than 8 inches above the lower hand.
That technique keep you from rubbing wood off against even a sharp, squared crowned muzzle, and keeps you from breaking any wood Ramrod.
I made a heavy wood loading rod for my 12 gauge shotgun, because the factory one was worse than totally inadequate, and had grain run-out. The stick is about 8 inches longer than my barrels, and wears a large Doorknob shaped handle I turned out of a block of walnut on a friend's lathe. At the other end of the stick, I glued and pinned a commercial ferrule, tapped for 10-32 threaded fittings. I bought a properly sized cleaning jag. That rod is NOT carried in the gun, but goes into the field with me, carried down my back. The jag is placed behind my belt. The top is centered on my spine, and is held by the weight of my possible's bag and its strap over my shoulder. The "doorknob" rides above my head, but when hunting birds in open fields it poses no obstruction to movement. If I were making a ramrod up for use when hunting in woods country, say- with my fowler or rifles-- instead of the large Doorknob handle, I would make up a skinner, longer, straight handle, like you see on files, and shorten the rod enough that the stick would not be above my head, but long enough to clean and load the barrel. On really long barreled guns, I would simply carry the rod laying it along side the barrel, and held with one or both hands. I had to carry my Ramrod out side the pipes one day deer hunting, as the wood had swollen after being out in fog, rain, and mist all day, and I could not get the RR back into the stock of the gun. It worked out just fine.
I prefer to remove the stick from the gun's pipe, anyway, when on a stand, and place the rod with the Jag down, leaning against a tree or other structure at hand, so that I can get the stick into the muzzle with a minimum of movement of either the rod or my hands.
And Up-and-down movement done this way can be hidden behind even a small tree, where an arcing sweep of the stick as its removed from the pipes under the barrel( along with the noise that often accompanies such a move) will alert, and scare not only game, but other small critters in the woods, that will give out alarm calls.
I am not against using metal rods for ramrods in any gun. Other than that 12 gauge shotgun, the other guns have both wooden ramrods, and Metal "Range rods". I do all the loading of these guns at the range, or at my car when loading them for a hunt, with the range rods. The wooden rods are only used to clean and reload in the field. They are more quiet to use, and do not give off alarming " clanks" like metal rods do in the woods.
One benefit that you might want to consider, particularly with a large caliber, shorter barrel gun is that the weight of a solid brass RR will help steady the muzzle and front sight when bringing the sights to bear on game, shooting off-hand. Its of lesser importance if you either have a shooting stick, or use standing rests when shooting at game in the woods, but that extra weight under the barrel can be very helpful in fighting off " Buck Fever ".
:hatsoff:
I see no reason to load a M/L before arriving at my blind. I wipe the barrel with three (3) cleaning patches before leaving the house. Two (2) caps are fired to ensure the nipple is oil free before leaving the house. This is about as clean and dry barrel can get. From the house to blind is a ten (10) minute journey.
The prime reason not to use a wood ramrod is that when it does break, it has a tendency to insert the broken piece into a person’s forearm, often rather deep, creating a puncture wound. Removing the broken end from your forearm is not exactly a thrill.
The price of brass ramrod is cheaper than the emergency room. Puncture wounds are the hardest to clean and heal.
Back to the orginal question, the rifle is one I would recommend.
RDE
The prime reason not to use a wood ramrod is that when it does break, it has a tendency to insert the broken piece into a person’s forearm, often rather deep, creating a puncture wound. Removing the broken end from your forearm is not exactly a thrill.
The price of brass ramrod is cheaper than the emergency room. Puncture wounds are the hardest to clean and heal.
Back to the orginal question, the rifle is one I would recommend.
RDE
@ Kirrmeister
Greetings from a neighbour! :thumbsup:
The rocky mountain Haken is in my opinion pretty expensive.
What about the Hwaken great Plains from investarms? You'll get one for € 390 in .54, the Pedersoli one runs for almost the double amount of money! Think about it!
I'll getting my Great Plains from Investarms in a week, but with a flintlock. :bow:
Here you have the source:
Investarms Great Plains for € 390
Greetings from a neighbour! :thumbsup:
The rocky mountain Haken is in my opinion pretty expensive.
What about the Hwaken great Plains from investarms? You'll get one for € 390 in .54, the Pedersoli one runs for almost the double amount of money! Think about it!
I'll getting my Great Plains from Investarms in a week, but with a flintlock. :bow:
Here you have the source:
Investarms Great Plains for € 390
paulvallandigham
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I know of ONLY TWO causes for wooden ramrods to break:
1. Run-out grain. No matter how good the rest of the stick is, eventually, the stick will break there.
2. Trying to push the ramrod down the barrel by grabbing the back of the rod, and trying to shove it down in one big push stroke. This involves using Large muscle groups, which react slowly when conditions change. Its doing this that sets you up for breaking the RR at the muzzle by bending the rod to far, while still having enough force to jam that end of the rod into your forearm.
If you use the Hand over Hand method of running a ramrod down the barrel, YOU WILL NOT BREAK THE ROD, even if it has run-out grain.
Now, your hands may get dirty doing this, particularly if you don't clean the barrel between shots. I have talked to men who broke rods and put them through their forearms. Most of them claim the reason they grabbed the rod at the back end was so they wouldn't get their hands dirty grabbing the rod by its shaft. Yes, they feel darn silly telling me this.
The answer to that is to clean between shots, and remember to wipe off the rod as it comes out of the muzzle with a rag, or large cleaning patch. Then wash and/or wipe your hands clean, too.
Hands are more likely to get dirty at a range, than in the field simply because you fire so many fewer shots in the field. If you forget that a lot of powder debris lands on the outside of the barrel around either the nipple, or vent hole, you find yourself getting dirty handling that area of the gun.
Take a canteen, or jug of water with you to the range, along with a roll of paper towel, and a small vial of dish soap. Now you are properly prepared to keep yourself and your equipment clean.
Richard, I don't care if you load the gun in the field. Just load it on terra firma, before you climb up into that stand. And then, raise the gun up to your stand with a lift rope, and then prime, or cap it when its legal to do so.
1. Run-out grain. No matter how good the rest of the stick is, eventually, the stick will break there.
2. Trying to push the ramrod down the barrel by grabbing the back of the rod, and trying to shove it down in one big push stroke. This involves using Large muscle groups, which react slowly when conditions change. Its doing this that sets you up for breaking the RR at the muzzle by bending the rod to far, while still having enough force to jam that end of the rod into your forearm.
If you use the Hand over Hand method of running a ramrod down the barrel, YOU WILL NOT BREAK THE ROD, even if it has run-out grain.
Now, your hands may get dirty doing this, particularly if you don't clean the barrel between shots. I have talked to men who broke rods and put them through their forearms. Most of them claim the reason they grabbed the rod at the back end was so they wouldn't get their hands dirty grabbing the rod by its shaft. Yes, they feel darn silly telling me this.
The answer to that is to clean between shots, and remember to wipe off the rod as it comes out of the muzzle with a rag, or large cleaning patch. Then wash and/or wipe your hands clean, too.
Hands are more likely to get dirty at a range, than in the field simply because you fire so many fewer shots in the field. If you forget that a lot of powder debris lands on the outside of the barrel around either the nipple, or vent hole, you find yourself getting dirty handling that area of the gun.
Take a canteen, or jug of water with you to the range, along with a roll of paper towel, and a small vial of dish soap. Now you are properly prepared to keep yourself and your equipment clean.
Richard, I don't care if you load the gun in the field. Just load it on terra firma, before you climb up into that stand. And then, raise the gun up to your stand with a lift rope, and then prime, or cap it when its legal to do so.
paulvallandigham
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I thought this was a discussion, not a debate. I just want you, and other MLers to be safe at all times. There are good reasons for the way we do things, and cutting corners, or compromising safety concerns is always a wrong decision. I have taught Hunter Safety for 25 years now, and read hundreds of incident reports involving firearms injuries. There are a few, unavoidable, and unpredictable accidents, but most of the incidents involve clear violation of safet rules. When you talk to the shooter/victims, they admit they had been cutting that corner for years. This time, they paid the price.
In fact, I once studied a list of accidents, and could not find one incident that didn't involve violations of more than 4 of the Ten Commandments of Gun Safety. You have to work HARD to have a hunting or shooting accident, and there is no better example than putting that ramrod through your forearm. I learned that from one of the instructors who taught me H-S. He had the scar on his forearm to prove his error. :shocked2: :hatsoff:
In fact, I once studied a list of accidents, and could not find one incident that didn't involve violations of more than 4 of the Ten Commandments of Gun Safety. You have to work HARD to have a hunting or shooting accident, and there is no better example than putting that ramrod through your forearm. I learned that from one of the instructors who taught me H-S. He had the scar on his forearm to prove his error. :shocked2: :hatsoff:
kirrmeister,
Sorry about the wandering from your question by some here, please let us know what you buy.
Your rifle in question does real well on our feral hogs.
We are wondering what your final decision will be.
Thanks
RDE
Sorry about the wandering from your question by some here, please let us know what you buy.
Your rifle in question does real well on our feral hogs.
We are wondering what your final decision will be.
Thanks
RDE
Guest
Howdy Kirrmeister,
If I didn't build Hawken rifles myself I would buy a Pedersoli Hawken. They are nice looking rifles and are darn close to what a Hawken should look like. It ain't perfect but it'll do.
Good luck with yours and let us know how she shoots.
Don't let the long winded lawyers scare you to death. :rotf: I suspect you are old enough to read a safety manual without me coaching you.
:thumbsup: :hatsoff:
Wood ramrods have been the way to go for many years. I think Daniel Boone used them with much success and so did Bridger and Carson.
:rotf:
If I didn't build Hawken rifles myself I would buy a Pedersoli Hawken. They are nice looking rifles and are darn close to what a Hawken should look like. It ain't perfect but it'll do.
Good luck with yours and let us know how she shoots.
Don't let the long winded lawyers scare you to death. :rotf: I suspect you are old enough to read a safety manual without me coaching you.
:thumbsup: :hatsoff:
Wood ramrods have been the way to go for many years. I think Daniel Boone used them with much success and so did Bridger and Carson.
:rotf:
54Bernie54
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I have the pedersoli Hawkens in 54(maple stock) that I bought 2 years ago, my fist ML and I love it.
Hello from Germany,
will let you know what I have bought asap. But it will be the Rocky Mountains, ordered already.
Because of the rod discussion. I normally use wooden rods, too or the fieber rod of my Traditions Deerhunter. Only when using bp pellets I use a brass rod, so that I can give the first pellet downbore a bush to break it a bit. If I don't do that ignition is not 100 % for sure because the pellet is not in the breech plug and so a bit away from ignition. But doing it the way I described together with Traditions arms which has a short breechplug and using magnum primers makes ignition very well similar to loose bp.
Regards
Kirrmeister
will let you know what I have bought asap. But it will be the Rocky Mountains, ordered already.
Because of the rod discussion. I normally use wooden rods, too or the fieber rod of my Traditions Deerhunter. Only when using bp pellets I use a brass rod, so that I can give the first pellet downbore a bush to break it a bit. If I don't do that ignition is not 100 % for sure because the pellet is not in the breech plug and so a bit away from ignition. But doing it the way I described together with Traditions arms which has a short breechplug and using magnum primers makes ignition very well similar to loose bp.
Regards
Kirrmeister
Well, I almost missed the thread.
After seeing it in Schwäbisch Hall I ordered one of the first on the german market.
The DP Hawken is a precise shooter.
I got very good results with .530 RB´s and Maxiballs with it. I started up with .535 RB´s. They didn´t seem to be better than the .530´s and so I stayed with the easier to load ones. :wink:
It´s pretty heavy, good for heavy loads but I know you´re huntin´ in the mountains - so keep in mind that you have to carry more weight up the hill than you did so far. :wink:
A friend of mine got the DP Hawken with a maple stock, mine is stocked in Walnut. I couldn´t see a need to pay so much extra for it as Pedersoli asks. :shake:
I ordered mine by the way by Jacobi in germany. You know the company AFAIK.
Here´s mine and what I used to shoot with it with Maxis and a 65grs load at 50 meters.
After seeing it in Schwäbisch Hall I ordered one of the first on the german market.
The DP Hawken is a precise shooter.
I got very good results with .530 RB´s and Maxiballs with it. I started up with .535 RB´s. They didn´t seem to be better than the .530´s and so I stayed with the easier to load ones. :wink:
It´s pretty heavy, good for heavy loads but I know you´re huntin´ in the mountains - so keep in mind that you have to carry more weight up the hill than you did so far. :wink:
A friend of mine got the DP Hawken with a maple stock, mine is stocked in Walnut. I couldn´t see a need to pay so much extra for it as Pedersoli asks. :shake:
I ordered mine by the way by Jacobi in germany. You know the company AFAIK.
Here´s mine and what I used to shoot with it with Maxis and a 65grs load at 50 meters.
As far as I know :wink:Kirrmeister said:
:barf:Kirrmeister said:
I wish you good luck with your new Hawken.
I´m sure you will be happy with it. :thumbsup:
65grs is my usual load by the way. If I remember right this is also the load the german VISIER-magazine tested it with good results.
Maybe you could still get this issue? I think it was in September ´06 when they tested it - right when the gun came on the german market.
:hmm: I remember someone had a pic in the internet showing a target with a nice cloverleaf-hole shot with his DP Hawken with 90grs and .530 RB´s.
Could also be a good number to start testing your new rifle. Better for huntin´ than my 65grs... :grin:
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