Proper metal finish for matchlock

[NorthFork]

My matchlock came in yesterday. It overall was better than expected as it is an Indian made musket. However there are a few small faults to be corrected (as I expected). I ordered this one, it is the crossbow lever model-

https://militaryheritage.com/musket15.htm
My biggest complaint is the grossly over polished metalwork. I can almost see my face in the lock plate and barrel. What would be the appropriate finish for the metal? Left white but not as over polished? Blued? I did do a search on here but did not come up with much of anything.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Clean, cold blue and rub back to gray ... or what'll look like aged patina if you add some character to it (I use BP-fouled patches to do so ... ).

We started to see evidence of blued parts on later wheellocks.

 

[BillinOregon]

Would rubbing down with brick dust reduce the glare? I agree the high polish on so many of the India guns is off-putting.
Sure hope you can get out and enjoy your new matchlock, Northfork, and post a detailed report with photos and Youtubes.

 

[TobJohn]

Clean, cold blue and rub back to gray ... or what'll look like aged patina if you add some character to it (I use BP-fouled patches to do so ... ).

We started to see evidence of blued parts on later wheellocks.

There is possibly a blued arquebus in a painting from the first decade of the 1500s. Could be an artistic choice, but blued armor did exist in the 1400s. Blued wheellocks also existed since at least the 1550s (almost certainly earlier, but those are the earliest not refurbished guns at Graz), so it would not be surprising if matchlocks would also have been blued.

For classic fishtail matchlocks, I am not sure either way. I know of a matchlock from the 1650s with a blued lockplate, but am struggling to rediscover the original source.

Here is a different one then I was thinking of:

Ethnographic Arms & Armour - View Single Post - A matchlock chronology, ca. 1520 to 1720

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Tob,
Yes, that fire blued lock was one I was thinking of as well!
I am sure Michael had an even earlier blued lock as well, made with a button and from the first part of the 1500's.

Re Q in OP,
I'd go over all the metal with some fine paper so take the shine off a bit.
even draw filing and burnishing would be OK but more work.
Fine finishes were seen, but look at the lock above that TobJohn posted. It is not that smooth but typical of munitions grade locks.

What messes up many of todays copies is being over finished, so you do well to look into this!
Do keep us updated on your progress!

 

[TobJohn]

Tob,
Yes, that fire blued lock was one I was thinking of as well!
I am sure Michael had an even earlier blued lock as well, made with a button and from the first part of the 1500's.

the original gun I was thinking of was his 1650 Austrian matchlock with the club butt stock, but I can’t find his post about it. Oh well, this one was a closer fit anyway.

 

[rickystl]

I've never understood why the distributors of these India made guns don't get together and request that the makers use a lower level of polish. It would be an easy change to make. It's like they polish ALL the metal parts with something beyond the 400 grit ?? But I've noticed they originally did this to all the blades they produce. Maybe this is where they picked up the habit for polishing gun parts ?

Rick

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Maybe this is where they picked up the habit for polishing gun parts ?

Here's my theory ... the pay scale for a Polisher, likely a kid ... is 1/10th that of a Gunsmith or Locksmith, who really should tune the locks BEFORE shipping. I bet they think the shine is good!

 

[Sidney Smith]

Steel wool will take the shine down. I'm planning to let my matchlock patina on its own. I can't think that many of the originals had any kind of finish on them. I'm sure I'm probably wrong though.

 

[XVIIc Wheelock]

My method in the past...shoot two or three rounds, then swab the bore with a "DAMP" not wet, mixture of 35% Dawn to water. Repeat after shooting another few rounds if you need more tarnish. The swab will come out "Black"...rub the black swab over the shiny parts. Works great on putting light patina on "in the white" parts and on brass as well. By the way, I use this same "damp" mixture on patches with an over powder card. Shoot to your hearts content without swabbing !

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Over polished still needs taking down a bit.
Fine emery of eve middling steel wool will help.
I think great big buffing wheels must be used, as corners are often pretty well rounded on locks from India.

Sidney,
Some were highly finished, but these were not munitions grade. Town guard maybe, but not your average military arm.
all best,
Rich.

 

[Irishmusket]

My matchlock came in yesterday. It overall was better than expected as it is an Indian made musket. However there are a few small faults to be corrected (as I expected). I ordered this one, it is the crossbow lever model-

https://militaryheritage.com/musket15.htm
My biggest complaint is the grossly over polished metalwork. I can almost see my face in the lock plate and barrel. What would be the appropriate finish for the metal? Left white but not as over polished? Blued? I did do a search on here but did not come up with much of anything.

Armory bright was how guns were finished in 17 th and 18 century blueing guns was an 19 th century thing browning gun parts was a middle 18 th century rarely done on military arms the british baker rifles were browned how ever the brown bess no.you never see the common matchlock musket blued or browned in the 17 century .I will say that the iIndian made muskets are over polished .that is cured buy using fine steel wool and gun oil to reduce the shinny a bit after cleaning your musket make it a habit to clean and polish its metal parts .keep the arm well cared for when not in use .Bees wax is good to protect the wood finish on these muskets .the wood finish on these arms is not the best but in many cases better than original musket .It was very common in New England in the 17 th century paint the wood black on muskets .

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Armory bright was how guns were finished in 17 th and 18 century, blueing guns was an 19th century thing ...

We've (@TobJohn that is ... ) actually found examples of wheellocks with blued parts!

 

[TobJohn]

Here is a wheellock from the Geneva art museum that is brilliantly blued:

It is important to remember that arms and armor were far more colorful in the renaissance, especially compared to what their surviving state would suggest.
Here is a short article from the Met on the topic:
Techniques of Decoration on Arms and Armor | Essay | The Metropolitan Museum of Art | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History

For a common military matchlock musket, there are a lot less survivors in pristine condition, so it is harder to tell. The pictures I have seen from Graz show their racks of muskets in the white. However, the blued lock plate I posted further up is from a convincing source.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Tob,
That breech loading mint example I posted somewhere here, was a brilliant fire blue job. (Wheellock and early)

You are quite correct on armour being blued in the 1400's if not earlier so was nothing new. Henry V111 armour was treated in this manner, but of course first half of 16th C.

Fun it, as we'd say back home, or back yam!

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Tob,
Was it you recently posted a detail from the Crusifiction, with the blued early tinder-lock?
Also yes, one of Michael's earliest button locks was also blued.
This is dragged out through it coming to mind as I ponder along!

 

[Irishmusket]

Yes I have a original wheel lock carbine with engraving on the lock and barrel with sliver inlays on both parts and yes it was blued and has wire decoration on its stock however this is not a common musket fancy finish on the barrels locks and hard ware was for the wealthy many of guns like this were gifts for rich people and actually made in in victorian era how ever my wheel lock was made Italy in 1600s for a very wealthy person gunsmith had the ability to make arms that were quite fancy but the common musket of that era was armory bright period

 

[rickystl]

I think I've read that original type rust bluing (even today) will slowly start to fade - unless you keep it oiled.

Something I've noticed. On many antique military style guns, from the 1870's and earlier, including wheellock military pistols, have a very dark stock stain. Almost an ebony type finish - that's not obviously "painted" black. It's actually a beautiful look that many collectors like, including myself. I've read where this color (with a slight purple-ish hugh) comes from aging of a wood stain using animal fat as an ingredient. Obviously, I don't know if this is true.

Rick.

 

[Dryball]

I dulled with steel wool and then covered with mustard and let sit. Couple of applications. Also restained stock. Bought second hand and not sure who made / imported

 

[Irishmusket]

Rajesthan armory these are very good matchlocks for the money early french pattern I own several I use em like Get em they season well on their own keep em clean oil and 000 steel wool and the shiny calms down as far as the stock they are made out of what Indian mahogany or teak wood finished with stained varnish or shellac.On one chips scratches real easy .One mine was not very good as the finish was chipped .I striped it with striper cleaned lightly sanded it sand paper oo steel wool and acetone wiped it down with water left it to dry gave the once over with steel wool and painted acrylic semi gloss black Paint two thin coats let dry and rubbed in two coats of bees wax and buffed it came out beautiful has held up well for last 5 years the musket looks very good and original like came of 1600s a correct finish for such a beasty