Question on making the holes in the barrel tenon's oblong?

[Trapper Scott]

According to the Kibler build instructions, we are supposed to extend the tenon holes for the barrel pins so they are oblong so that the barrel can adjust due to the stock swelling or contracting due to weather conditions. So how is everyone accomplishing this? Do they make a metal cutting blade that will thread through the small drill hole? I have a coping saw with metal cutting blades, but they look way too big for what I need.
Thanks for the help

 

[PatrickL01]

I found a really small jeweler's saw that the blade could fit through. But honestly it cut so slow that I found a diamond-covered drill bit for my dremel tool that fit the hole and used it like a micro-router to dig the holes out.

 

[Tumbledown]

Wood changes very little in length along the grain. I don't think it's necessary, especially if the stock is well sealed.

 

[garypl]

I drilled 1/16" holes and then widened them with needle files - didn't take long.

 

[jtkerk]

A jewelers saw works well also if u have a really small needle file also works and it is definitely necessary to oblong holes to deal with possible stock movements in different temps and weather

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
A round needle file works fine. The oblong slot does not have to be long. Stock movement will be the most at the lug nearest the muzzle and then get less as you move toward the breech. It can be enough so that the hole in the stock nearest the muzzle no longer lines up with the hole in the lug.

dave

 

[PatrickL01]

I didn't dig mine out like Jim Kibler does on the Woodsrunner video - just give the hole some clearance. I am not concerned about moisture in the wood, but after you fire the gun several times the barrel will heat up and elongate and if you are binding the pins your point of impact will move more than if the pins are loose.

 

[1BadDart]

As others have mentioned, I too used a needle file.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I use a Dremel with a 1/16" diamond cutter head, zip-zip, 2 seconds and done. I bought a pack of 20 small el-cheapo diamond cutters for about $5, I even use them for very fine inletting, they cut wood so slowly you can't screw stuff up. I was a power duck decoy carver and did all the fine feather detail with one so I know my way around a Dremel or Fordom tool

 

[Trapper Scott]

Thanks, fellers. I have several of the diamond-coated Dremel tips that should work and I don't know why I didn't think of those, to begin with. I've built two previous ML kits in the past and had never heard of elongating the pin holes but I try to follow the instructions to the letter if possible.

 

[longcruise]

I've only done this once but in my case i was able to grind the back off a very fine "sabre" saw metal blade and fit it through the hole. The blade was NOT used in the saw. I 5 minute epox ied it into a small dowel. In retrospect that was a rather elaborate solution to a simple problem

I'll do it the way Eric describes next time.

 

[Trapper Scott]

I've only done this once but in my case i was able to grind the back off a very fine "sabre" saw metal blade and fit it through the hole. The blade was NOT used in the saw. I 5 minute epox ied it into a small dowel. In retrospect that was a rather elaborate solution to a simple problem

I'll do it the way Eric describes next time.

I typically lock my Dremels up when it comes to gun work because they are too easy to grab and screw something up, especially with wood, but with the metal tenons, I think I can be trusted enough to slot a few holes.

 

[billraby]

I have had rifle stock change length by over a millimeter between summer and winter. That is enough to split the wood. Dremel should never be in the same room as a gun. Those things destroy more guns than anything else. Foredom is the tool to use instead. Small file also works fine. I use a milling machine.

 

[Trapper Scott]

I have had rifle stock change length by over a millimeter between summer and winter. That is enough to split the wood. Dremel should never be in the same room as a gun. Those things destroy more guns than anything else. Foredom is the tool to use instead. Small file also works fine. I use a milling machine.

I've got two milling machines but I know I don't have any mill bits small enough to do the job. My little Sieg mill would be an obvious choice.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I have always used a jeweler's saw.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I have had rifle stock change length by over a millimeter between summer and winter. That is enough to split the wood. Dremel should never be in the same room as a gun. Those things destroy more guns than anything else. Foredom is the tool to use instead. Small file also works fine. I use a milling machine.

I disagree! A Dremel's use is no different than a milling machine. I would not even know how to turn a milling machine on, much less use it as expertly as you. On the other hand I can handle a Dremel. No matter what tool, gun, machine, knife, car, truck, is being used, it is the persons's lack of ability that gets him/her into trouble.
Larry

 

[Phil Coffins]

I disagree! A Dremel's use is no different than a milling machine. I would not even know how to turn a milling machine on
So how can you say there’s no difference?

 

[Trapper Scott]

I have several Dremels and two milling machines and can tell you that both machines/tools have their own challenges, but a mill is much more precise and controllable, but at least with a Dremel you don't have to square up your workpiece to the head. The difference between a laser-guided missile and a hand grenade.

 

[M. De Land]

I typically lock my Dremels up when it comes to gun work because they are too easy to grab and screw something up, especially with wood, but with the metal tenons, I think I can be trusted enough to slot a few holes.

I have and use both Dremel and Fordom motored tools but once heard a builder quip that made me laugh out loud at the truth of it. He said " There ain't no gun project so screwed up that it can't be made worse with a Dremel tool in the wrong hands"!

 

[Trapper Scott]

I have and use both Dremel and Fordom motored tools but once heard a builder quip that made me laugh out loud at the truth of it. He said " There ain't no gun project so screwed up that it can't be made worse with a Dremel tool in the wrong hands"!

That is a true statement. As a former gunsmith, I have seen things come through the shop that made me wonder "What were they thinking"? Some looked like a beaver had gotten ahold of them, so they came to my shop to get their mess straightened out.